Contamination?

[FA9]

Ballistol, clp, wd40, hoppe's, etc... I mainly use wd40 when cleaning my firearms at home, but in my range box I have ballistol. I rarely use hoppes, but I do use it.

Can I contaminate by barrel? Whats the worse that can happen?

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[Joe13]

Depends on how much stuff you mix I suppose.

I don't think your in any danger with what you listed though.

 

[MasterChief]

I stay away fromWD-40 just b/c of ammo....the rest I use religiously

 

[Misteramax]

I mainly use wd40 when cleaning my firearms

 

[nammac]

Think it would be impossible to do any damage with those chemicals listed... WD-40, I shy away from, don't want that driving into the ammo... Never want to hear click rather than bang...

I personally use Hoppes and CLP... Haven't had any issues in decades of using those products...

Come to think of it Hoppes No. 9 and CLP should be marketed as men's cologne...

 

[MasterChief]

"Magazines loaded and waiting....wd40 will always find a way"

~murphy

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Yeah, lose the wd40, it has no business being near firearms.

 

[FA9]

Interesting about the wd40...

 

[Misteramax]

Interesting about the wd40...

It's ok for just metal. Not really all that great at that. Prolong exposure to wood will destroy your wood. No fudd lore or Internet rumor about it. Witnessed it myself. It will turn it soft fast.

 

[Kruel J]

Huh, I've been using WD-40 for YEARS. Had an old school gunsmith tell me once it was the best thing to clean and protect guns. WD stands for Water Displacement. Seems to work well on my Glocks and AR's although Frog Lube works better.

 

[Kruel J]

I just don't like the Vic's Vaborub smell

 

[Kruel J]

Or the weeping from FL

 

[Misteramax]

Huh, I've been using WD-40 for YEARS. Has an old school gunsmith tell me once it was the best thing to clean and protect guns. WD stands for Water Displacement. Seems to work well on my Glocks and AR's although Frog Lube works better.

It damaged a Winchester 94 stock. Others online suggest never cleaning with it and storing your firearms with wood stocks vertical. If it seeps down for example from in the action to the fastener hole on a shotgun stock. At least that's how I think their description was possible.

 

[Kruel J]

It damaged a Winchester 94 stock. Others online suggest never cleaning with it and storing your firearms with wood stocks vertical. If it seeps down for example from in the action to the fastener hole on a shotgun stock.

Yeah, makes sense. Wood furniture is susceptible to all chemicals.

 

[Misteramax]

Yeah, makes sense. Wood furniture is susceptible to all chemicals.

Something about wd though that is just extra harsh on wood.

My Glocks get anti seize. You can see here from Glock, I like to keep my oem application method.

 

[v0lcom13sn0w]

Tri-flow works good on guns

i just got introduced to Ballistol. it works well. the smell is an aquired smell tho. i like it now.

CLP is good for just about anything


i use the foaming stuff(hoppes9 i think.lt could be CLP) in my suppressor as it is welded. works great and reduces 1st round pop

 

[Sagebrush Dave]

Information on the WD stuff, after many years of gunsmithing and armoring... (that sounds weird) and working with many firearms companies, I can tell you with confidence that WD 40 is the best thing for electrical connections, fish bait, squeaky hinges and other stuff but it is not all good for firearms. It is a good lubricant and is water displacing, I use it to spray off guns when they come out of the hot tank bluing solution boil out. The problem with it is "time",,, Over time it will reduce itself to a substance that looks like melted rubber bands, it gets sticky and nasty and slows down the parts that need to move fast, like firing pins, hammers and such. There is nothing wrong with using it on the outside of a gun to get the water off and protect the surface, but keep it out of the works. I have watch revolvers drop the hammer in slow motion after several months of WD dry out. The good thing is that it will clean out quite well with any other solvent or light oil and it hurts nothing permanently.
With all the new hot dog stuff on the market, I still stand by the old hoppes "standard" gun oil for just about everything. All the new hot dog stuff is just regular oil with some additive and coloring to make it look and smell cool and add several dollars to the price of an ounce.

Just my 4 cents worth.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Re WD40 - look here, do a find in page for WD
Lubrication 101: Gun oil, snake oil, and how to tell the difference. - www.GrantCunningham.com

Copied here for reference, it's a long article.

"WD-40: WD-40 was never meant to be a lubricant – it was designed as a moisture displacer. It's far too light for any load protection, has incredibly poor corrosion resistance, contains zero boundary lubricants, and rapidly oxidizes to form a sickly yellow varnish (hint: this is not good for delicate internal lockwork.) There are those who will defend this stuff vehemently, but then again you can still find people who think smokeless powder is a passing fad. Just. Don't."

 

[tombeetwo]

Re WD40 - look here, do a find in page for WD
Lubrication 101: Gun oil, snake oil, and how to tell the difference. - www.GrantCunningham.com

Copied here for reference, it's a long article.

"WD-40: WD-40 was never meant to be a lubricant – it was designed as a moisture displacer. It's far too light for any load protection, has incredibly poor corrosion resistance, contains zero boundary lubricants, and rapidly oxidizes to form a sickly yellow varnish (hint: this is not good for delicate internal lockwork.) There are those who will defend this stuff vehemently, but then again you can still find people who think smokeless powder is a passing fad. Just. Don't."

Back in a day , worked as apprentice locksmith; was taught and repaired a lot of locks that had been lubed with WD40, that sticky film mixed with lint from keys in people's pockets would seize the parts in the lock cylinder (springs and pins) and had to flush with electrical cleaner and lube with graphite base dry lube. If not caught in time, the cylinder had to be replaced because of unnatural wear (distorted uneven wear). Hoppers used sparingly has worked for years. Extra lube for storage only would probably be the way to go. Most anything in excess mixed with dust , lint, powder residue build-up, will tend to gunk up the works in things with moving parts.

 

[Crohnos01]

There are those who will defend this stuff vehemently, but then again you can still find people who think smokeless powder is a passing fad

So, someone else knows Andy? ..... I am sure that Andy wouldn't use WD 40 though..... Bear grease maybe, but nothing as new fangled as WD 40