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Breaking in a barrel?

Discussion in 'Rifle Discussion' started by twoclones, Dec 15, 2009.

  1. twoclones

    twoclones Tri-Cities, WA Well-Known Member

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    I watched a YouTube video on breaking in the barrel on a Ruger 10/22. Is this necessary? Does it really make a difference?

    The video said to fire one round then run a cleaning patch through. After many times of doing this, fire 10 rounds then run a cleaning patch through for several times, etc....

    What do you think?
     
  2. Bello425

    Bello425 Vancouver Well-Known Member 2016 Volunteer

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    Is it a factory barrel or aftermarket one? Never heard of a 10/22 factory barrel requiring a break-in.
     
  3. JAFO

    JAFO OR, USA Silver Supporter Silver Supporter

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    There are two camps when it comes to breaking in any barrel. One says you have to do some weird voodoo cleaning/shooting/cleaning/shooting procedure and the others says just shoot it.

    If you have a barrel that has a warranty then follow the makers instructions on break-in. If not, flip a coin, then just shoot it. :D
     
  4. Logical1

    Logical1 southeast portland, OR Member

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    and if you hit the coin, then the barrel is broke in.... :)
     
  5. Benny503

    Benny503 Grants Pass Well-Known Member

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    You guy are cracking me up, the only thing i heard need to break in is 308.
     
  6. twoclones

    twoclones Tri-Cities, WA Well-Known Member

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    It's a factory, stainless steel barrel. I just can't imagine a metalurgical reason for the shoot/clean/shoot/clean process.
     
  7. Deavis

    Deavis Mid Willamette Valley Active Member

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    Tons of evidnece on both sides on this... I dont get many new guns.... but the last one I got I did break in with the voodoo...... I was happy with result, but... I dont know what it would have been if I did not break it in.

    I have a new sage rat rifle I need to shoot... I will probably break it in, cant hurt. CZ527 Varmint/Tactical in .223.

    I dont know about 10-22 ..... I havent had good experience with their factory barrels... couldnt possibly hurt.
     
  8. UncalledForGabe

    UncalledForGabe Aloha Or. Member

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    At least clean it before you shoot it. Old cutting oil and shavings cant be good for your rifling.
     
  9. Partsproduction

    Partsproduction Tillamook Oregon Active Member

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    I read a thread about this, some guys even using lapping compound to "break" their barrels in faster. McMillen, of some barrel making fame said it was all hogwash (In many more words) and that lapping was a great way to shorten the life of the barrel.
    I don't know, some barrel makers suggest breaking in a new barrel, I don't know enough about it to say, but it seems silly to me. Often I'm wrong though.
     
  10. curtismann

    curtismann Silverton Silver Supporter Silver Supporter

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    I used the shoot - clean - repeat method with my Savage 10fp in .308 when I first got it. Watched it go from minute-of-all over, to minute-of-awesome in about 30 rounds. Now, I don't know if that was as a result of the shooting, or the cleaning, or some mystical combination.
    As for a 10/22, the only way I've ever broken one is was to shoot it 'til the ammo's gone.:D
     
  11. twoclones

    twoclones Tri-Cities, WA Well-Known Member

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    Now that's just silly.
     
  12. TonsOfOregonBrass

    TonsOfOregonBrass Sandy, OR Active Member

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    I am pretty sure the lapping compound is a great way to "Break" your barrel. I don't see that doing anything to help at all.
     
  13. OregonJohn

    OregonJohn Sutherlin, Or Bronze Life Member #1 Lifetime Supporter

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    Most, if not all, upper end barrel companies hand lap the barrels they sale. This removes tooling marks in the bore. The better the bore, the better it will clean and shoot. Most factory guns do not, unless they use a custom barrel in the guns they sale. My Cooper has a factory Shilen and my Kimbers use a factory Krieger. All are hand lapped at the factory. All shoot perfect. You can have a factory gun hand lapped by a good gunsmith. The second best thing you can do is break in your barrel. You can even use the break in system on a used gun to improve accuracy and ease of cleaning. The only real question I know about, is weather you should break in a barrel that has been hand lapped. Since all of the tooling marks have been polished and removed. I still do. All of my target and varmint guns shoot under 1/2 inch at 100 yards, with hand loaded ammo. As far as a factory 10/22, I would not waste my time. Just hit it with a bore snake and shake the dirt out. John
     
  14. Partsproduction

    Partsproduction Tillamook Oregon Active Member

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    The great question no expert has ever answered for me, when is it "broken in" and when does it start to "wear out"? It seems to me that "Finished" is a better goal, and guns should be finished at the factory. From there they begin the long process of wearing out.
    Most guns are test fired at the factory, so, do the companies that suggest that we run copper cleaner through after each of the first ten shots, and then after each of the following ten at 2 round intervals, are they doing that when they test shoot it?

    http://www.dsarms.com/brebarrel.asp
     
  15. OregonJohn

    OregonJohn Sutherlin, Or Bronze Life Member #1 Lifetime Supporter

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    From the production guns I have purchased, with factory barrels. I don't think they are cleaned at all. John
     
  16. Hondo

    Hondo Keizer Member

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    A match barrel I feel should always be broken in like this. Now on the other hand when I got my 10/22 I believe the process was.. Shoot 1000 rounds clean shoot 1000 rounds clean. Most of the stuff I'm shooting isn't that far out past 100 anyway.
     
  17. chiefchip

    chiefchip Rainier, Oregon Member

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    +1:thumbup:
     
  18. Grizzly_A

    Grizzly_A Portland Metro Area Member

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    Ha! Now that's funny!

    For a stock 10/22 I'd clean it first and then shoot it. It's not like the factory barrel is going to have match grade accuracy anyway. On a .22LR, it's not like you're going to be wearing out the barrel anytime soon. The projectiles are going to be lead or electroplated copper on lead.

    On a match grade barrel, that's hand lapped to remove tooling marks, I would do a "break in" process, but that is more for finding out where the cold bore shot is and how it groups, but I wouldn't really bother with a 10/22.

    If you're worried about accuracy with a 10/22, you've either got LOTS of money to replace everything to minimize the variables, or you'll drive yourself crazy trying to make it so by tinkering.

    They are very fun to shoot. But I'd give it a good cleaning and worry about break-in once I get something with more kick. :)