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Is it possible (or safe) to load acp bullets into a colt case? I have 230g Berry's Plated RN. (no cannelure). If so, what would you suggest for powder? Barnes says 14-16g of Acc. #7 for a 225g XPB. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thx.
 
Whilst revolver ammo is generally crimped, their are .45s that use ACP ammo with moon clips,,.
Perhaps the .45 Colt cases can use a good taper crimp like the ACP rounds?
Someone with first-hand knowledge should be here in awhile that can present a more definitive answer,,,,,,
 
What are you shooting them out of? I saw loads for the 14,000psi and the 30,000 ruger only loads.Load data.com has a lot of loads listed. The Lee reloading manuel has some. The western powder site has a couple, using a 230grn xtp. I use a Lee fcd, you can set them up to give a light crimp. I've loaded lots of non cannelured in revolvers.
 
Perfectly possible and safe as long as proven reliable reloading data is used from a known source. Depending on groove diameter of your cylinder throats and barrel, accuracy could be less than normal but adequate for target work. This is due to most 45 ACP bullets being a diameter of .451 while 45 colt bullets are .452 to .4525 for the jacketed stuff. The only reason I mention this is I have seen and measured some 45 colt revolvers with Bores at or over .454 and best accuracy is obtained by matching the bullet to cylinder throat to bore diameter. With all that being said I have loaded several hundred 45 ACP bullets in 45 colt cases with out any issue. As long as you are not trying to Hot rod them a standard taper crimp should work fine, I use the Lee factory crimp die. Powder, I have used a lot of Unique over the years, HS6, W231, and Trail boss all per published load data. Find a good reloading book like a Lyman reloading guide which will list several other useful powders. These are standard loads not the Ruger/Marlin only loads. It really depends on what you are shooting it in and what you are trying to accomplish. It will work fine.
 
Perfectly possible and safe as long as proven reliable reloading data is used from a known source. Depending on groove diameter of your cylinder throats and barrel, accuracy could be less than normal but adequate for target work. This is due to most 45 ACP bullets being a diameter of .451 while 45 colt bullets are .452 to .4525 for the jacketed stuff. The only reason I mention this is I have seen and measured some 45 colt revolvers with Bores at or over .454 and best accuracy is obtained by matching the bullet to cylinder throat to bore diameter. With all that being said I have loaded several hundred 45 ACP bullets in 45 colt cases with out any issue. As long as you are not trying to Hot rod them a standard taper crimp should work fine, I use the Lee factory crimp die. Powder, I have used a lot of Unique over the years, HS6, W231, and Trail boss all per published load data. Find a good reloading book like a Lyman reloading guide which will list several other useful powders. These are standard loads not the Ruger/Marlin only loads. It really depends on what you are shooting it in and what you are trying to accomplish. It will work fine.
Great info. Thx.
 
All good info thus far. While the plated ACP bullet might be a bit undersized it still should work as it will behave as a lead bullet, which is essentially what it is.

It will obdurate to throat diameter much easier than a truly jacketed bullet, making for acceptable to better results.

The biggest issue is crimp. Bullets in revolver chambers can creep forward out of the case from firing.

As the revolver recoils rearward the chamber mouths slam into the forward portion of the case rims causing the case to snap backward as the are drug along by the rearward moving cylinder.

If the case is not holding onto the bullet with enough force inertia will cause the bullet to creep forward out of the case. This will cause inconsistencies in velocity and affect accuracy. If the bullet creeps forward enough it can jam the cylinder stopping it from rotating.

Thus is why most revolver rounds have a firm roll crimp into a cannelure, to provide enough resistance to keep the bullets in place. The roll crimp provides a mechanical lock in addition to the friction provided by the bullet surface / case surface interface. More recoil requires more resistance.

This can be done by friction alone using a taper crimp. It all depends on the cases neck tension combined with the friction of the bullet surface and the surface of the inside of the case mouth balanced against velocity.

So load a small batch of rounds and fill the wheel gun with that load. Fire 5 of the 6 rounds. Remove the unfired round and examine the cartridge looking to see whether the bullet has moved due to recoil. If so, adjust your crimp.

One thing that may help is to use very clean brass, such as what come out of a wet tumbler when non-wax bearing detergent is used. This squeaky clean brass will have more friction than a case with residual carbon that is left in the case mouth when tumbled in dry media.

Your rifle is different. Rounds in tubular magazines don't get "snapped to the rear" by force applied to the case rim. The way they bounce around in the tube causes them to impact each other nose to rear, and this can cause the rounds to actually shorten from recoil. This is why rounds fired in tubular magazines should not use pointed spitzer bullets and like revolver rounds usually are roll crimped into a cannelure.

You can use a taper crimp with the rifle as well, just load a full magazine and fire all but one. Examine the unfired round for shortening and adjust from there.

Also, the ACP bullet may be a bit short so that the cartridge may not properly cycle in the long gun. You will have to load some up and test for function.

I hope this helps.
 
Last Edited:
All good info thus far. While the plated ACP bullet might be a bit undersized it still should work as it will behave as a lead bullet, which is essentially what it is.

It will obdurate to throat diameter much easier than a truly jacketed bullet, making for acceptable to better results.

The biggest issue is crimp. Bullets in revolver chambers can creep forward out of the case from firing.

As the revolver recoils rearward the chamber mouths slam into the forward portion of the case rims causing the case to snap backward as the are drug along by the rearward moving cylinder.

If the case is not holding onto the bullet with enough force inertia will cause the bullet to creep forward out of the case. This will cause inconsistencies in velocity and affect accuracy. If the bullet creeps forward enough it can jam the cylinder stopping it from rotating.

Thus is why most revolver rounds have a firm roll crimp into a cannelure, to provide enough resistance to keep the bullets in place. The roll crimp provides a mechanical lock in addition to the friction provided by the bullet surface / case surface interface. More recoil requires more resistance.

This can be done by friction alone using a taper crimp. It all depends on the cases neck tension combined with the friction of the bullet surface and the surface of the inside of the case mouth balanced against velocity.

So load a small batch of rounds and fill the wheel gun with that load. Fire 5 of the 6 rounds. Remove the unfired round and examine the cartridge looking to see whether the bullet has moved due to recoil. If so, adjust your crimp.

One thing that may help is to use very clean brass, such as what come out of a wet tumbler when non-wax bearing detergent is used. This squeaky clean brass will have more friction than a case with residual carbon that is left in the case mouth when tumbled in dry media.

Your rifle is different. Rounds in tubular magazines don't get "snapped to the rear" by force applied to the case rim. The way they bounce around in the tube causes them to impact each other nose to rear, and this can cause the rounds to actually shorten from recoil. This is why rounds fired in tubular magazines should not use pointed spitzer bullets and like revolver rounds usually are roll crimped into a cannelure.

You can use a taper crimp with the rifle as well, just load a full magazine and fire all but one. Examine the unfired round for shortening and adjust from there.

Also, the ACP bullet may be a bit short so that the cartridge may not properly cycle in the long gun. You will have to load some up and test for function.

I hope this helps.
Excellent explanation. Thank you for spending the time. After yours and all the other replies I feel very confident in rolling these up safely. And a special thanks to NWFA! :s0067:
 

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