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Hey all,

My AR-15 in a Colt HBAR with the 1:7 twist, so it really likes 62 grain rounds best. Problem is, there's not alot of less-expensive 62 grain ammo out there. Herters does make a 62 grain .223 with steel casings. I was going to pick some up at Cabelas, but the sales guy in the firearms area said steel case ammo would "tear up" an AR-15.

Sounds a bit off to me, but I have heard stranger things. Any validity to this? Opinions? Thanks for the input.
Chris
 
I've used both wolf and golden tiger (both steel cased) in my AR's, along with brass cased ammo. Never an issue one with any of them. As far as the herters brand, I haven't tried it, so can not comment on that brand.

Also, I always clean my weapons every time I get back from shooting.


Stay Safe.
 
It can be hard on extractors but they are under $10 each if you break one. I have never had to replace one.

The next question that comes into play is what part do they claim it hurts? How much does that part cost to replace?

Price brass cased ammo, price steel cased ammo. Then figured out how much you save per case of ammo. Now how much ammo do you plan on shooting? Say you shoot 14 cases of ammo at even $50/case savings you will have $700 to replace your entire rifle and will have still shot 14k of ammo...........
 
I seeing steel ammo run about $100/k cheeper. If you are just plinking do you think the target can tell what it got hit with? Say you shoot 10k of ammo, not out of line and will not even come close to wearing out a gun. If by some weird twist of fate you completely destroy your $1k gun (not sure how) you will have saved $1k in the price of ammo to replace said firearm.

I am not advocating only shooting one thing or another. I am just saying compare things and look at it. I have no problems shooting steel or brass in my guns. I do have one AR that sees NOTHING but my handloads cause it is my "target" gun and that is what I use it for.
 
Mine all worked fine with steel or brass. After several Kths extractors were still GTG too.

The only problem I've ever seen with Wolf is that it is loaded weak. Dry, tight weapons might fail to function with it.

People have had extraction problems too, when shooting brass cased ammo after steel. Go over to theboxotruth for a write up w/pics.

H
 
I just don't understand buying a 1K rifle then running cheap ammo. You can buy AE XM193 very cheap and this is what the AR is designed to run.

That is a 55 grain round. My AR has a 1:7 twist barrel, that's why I am looking for 62 grain rounds. It was made to run M855 62 grain steel core penetrators, which I have a butt load of. But @ $189 for 500 rounds, that works out to almost 42 cents per round. The Herters, $129 for 500, plus my Cabelas 10% off coupons is just under 26 cents per round. That comes out to $5 per mag. I like to shoot, so that really addds up. That's why I am evaluating cheap ammo.
 
Just an FYI faster twist is meant to be ABLE to run longer (usually = heavier) bullets. This does not mean it can not run shorter bullets (lighter).

Have you tried any 55 gr stuff in your gun? Have you compared it to how it performs vs 62 gr?
 
I have, and it seemed to have a few more flyers than the higher grain stuff. But that was a while ago, and I suppose it could have been me. Maybe I should test a box or two of 55 grain stuff.
 
Wolf/Tula makes a 62 grain steel cased ammo that it almost identical in price to the 55gr stuff. You should be able to find this stuff for around .20-23 cents a round using this site: http://ammoseek.com/?gun=rifle&cal=113&grains=62&mfg=&keywords=&sortby=cpr
I think Herters is made by Tula. And yes, this stuff can be weak and not cycle some AR's. I haven't had the problem in 3 of mine, but friends have.
I think its fine ammo, and like others mentioned, if you are going to shoot 1000+ rounds a year, worth the savings in minor parts wearing.
 
Thanks for the link jdub75! I am going to Surplus Ammo & Arms tomorrow, I'll see what they have, and try a box or two. If not, I'll give the Tula a try. I have had good results in my SKS with their ammo.
 
I just don't understand buying a 1K rifle then running cheap ammo. You can buy AE XM193 very cheap and this is what the AR is designed to run.

Kinda depends on how much you shoot.

If I run 10k thru the rifle I'll have saved enough to buy another rifle when I'm done.

If you run 20 rounds a year thru a rifle the cheap stuff ain't worth it.

H
 
Kinda depends on how much you shoot.

If I run 10k thru the rifle I'll have saved enough to buy another rifle when I'm done.

If you run 20 rounds a year thru a rifle the cheap stuff ain't worth it.

H
Agreed.

I've been shooting Silver Bear with my Spike's Tactical with no problems associated with the ammo. I've had a couple FTF's, but I blame the mag in those 2 cases.
 
I rather shoot brass since I reload.

Steel casings should work fine, but I've heard some people having issues running brass casing after steel. Reason being steel doesn't expand as much as brass, causing build up. Then shooting brass, which expands in this may cause FTE. Haven't experience or tried this so take it as what you want.
 
I rather shoot brass since I reload.

Steel casings should work fine, but I've heard some people having issues running brass casing after steel. Reason being steel doesn't expand as much as brass, causing build up. Then shooting brass, which expands in this may cause FTE. Haven't experience or tried this so take it as what you want.

This is correct, just give the chamber a good scrubbing when your done. There used to be issues with laquer build up too but all the current stuff uses a polymer coating.
 
the sales guy in the firearms area said steel case ammo would "tear up" an AR-15.
It's obvious he does not know what he is talking about. While the steel cased ammo tends to run a tad on the dirty side, it will not tear up an AR15. The mild steel isn't as elastic as brass and does not expand and seal the chamber as well. Also, steel cases are coated (lacquer or polymer) to prevent rust and the coating can gunk things up a bit, after heavy use.
 

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