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A very often overlooked but absolutely phenomenal trigger is Wilson Combat's drop in AR trigger units. They are every bit as good as their 1911 triggers. And it's been a few years since I bought mine but at the time they always finished very high in the reviews...often finishing in the top two.
 
Thanx for all the input folks. I'm looking at the 2 mentioned in the OP because of their affordability. I've got to draw the line somewhere, and putting a $200 Geissele bang switch on a $400 AR just ain't in the cards. There have been a couple other options mentioned here that I will look into though. As stated, not looking for combat, speed drill or, for that matter, home defense use. I wouldn't use a long gun for home defense, in my location, unless it was a PCC. These are strictly range toys.
 
Thanx for all the input folks. I'm looking at the 2 mentioned in the OP because of their affordability. I've got to draw the line somewhere, and putting a $200 Geissele bang switch on a $400 AR just ain't in the cards. There have been a couple other options mentioned here that I will look into though. As stated, not looking for combat, speed drill or, for that matter, home defense use. I wouldn't use a long gun for home defense, in my location, unless it was a PCC. These are strictly range toys.
You might try the Geissele ACT. It's ~$80.
 
Trigger input? Ok..there's only two sexes.

But I doubt most here would be triggered by that. ;)
I am triggered by the reminder that there are people who are triggered by reality. We have extended family that fall into this category, and interacting with them is all
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Thanx for all the input folks. I'm looking at the 2 mentioned in the OP because of their affordability. I've got to draw the line somewhere, and putting a $200 Geissele bang switch on a $400 AR just ain't in the cards. There have been a couple other options mentioned here that I will look into though. As stated, not looking for combat, speed drill or, for that matter, home defense use. I wouldn't use a long gun for home defense, in my location, unless it was a PCC. These are strictly range toys.
This will probably be controversial, but I work over my own triggers. The usual disclaimer of "don't mess with a trigger unless you know what you are doing" absolutely apply. If you do it wrong you can make a very unsafe firearm. Don't do it unless you know you know how.

But this is a learnable skill. The basic principles are easy to grasp and as long as you know what those are it is not hard to polish/adjust things to make even bargain bin triggers pretty decent. Usually the biggest issue with stock triggers is the lack of attention paid to the sear surfaces. You can fix such triggers without even changing any geometry, just a few passes with a hone can make the break feel as good as triggers that cost multiple times more. Changing geometry can fix other issues like take-up and over-travel. You can even fix gritty safety feel with relative ease.

My suggestion for anyone who wants to put in the time to learn is to make friends with a professional gun smith. By them beers or otherwise compensate them for their time and let them know you are wanting to learn some of the skills of the trade. Once you have an "in" get a few cheap trigger sets and slowly ease into improving one single aspect of the pull. Do not put this test piece in a functional gun (at least not yet), just polish it up and see if you can improve the feel. Then take it to your new best buddy and have them give it a thorough once over for safety issues. Make sure they critique the work and beat on it a little bit. Once they are satisfied you did it right and understand the fundamentals of that part, move on to the next improvement. Repeat until you know you know, and now you can fix your own triggers.

Or an easier method might be to just pay for a trigger class from one of the reputable gunsmith schools. Depending on how friendly/busy your local gunsmiths are this may be a cheaper route.
 
Wow, I had written them off as being $175+ to start. Thank you!
The ACT is a standard mil spec trigger that has been nicely polished. They are quite awesome and way better than a stock one. Very crisp and come with a light and heavy spring. Unlike the rest of the triggers you have mentioned they are a single stage. It is my single stage "go to".

If you keep your eye out you can find the SSA-E or SSA for $150. I bought my last three SSA-E's for $150 in the last few months. Two from Midway and have one in the mail from PSA. For an extra $10 over the MBT I would personally wait. IMO the lighter SSA-E would be great for your purposes.
 
The ACT is a standard mil spec trigger that has been nicely polished. They are quite awesome and way better than a stock one. Very crisp and come with a light and heavy spring. Unlike the rest of the triggers you have mentioned they are a single stage. It is my single stage "go to".

If you keep your eye out you can find the SSA-E or SSA for $150. I bought my last three SSA-E's for $150 in the last few months. Two from Midway and have one in the mail from PSA. For an extra $10 over the MBT I would personally wait. IMO the lighter SSA-E would be great for your purposes.
Mbt is always around $99 now from what I've seen. No more $80 sales that I have seen though.
 
If you are not in a hurry to get them.
Keep your peepers open for the Geissele sales.

I picked up my SSA on a Halloween Blem sale for $135 shipped.
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The blem is not returnable as I got it for such a deal, but is guaranteed to work properly.
It has been laser marked with Count Blemula as such.
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I can't tell what the blem is, but it all looks just fine to me.

For black Friday last year I purchased a pair of the G2G triggers for $89 each I believe.
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The shipping company chose to smash the boxes for me, but that didn't hurt the items purchased.
 
I do have a question about the Larue MBT. It's specs say 4 1/2# pull with 1st stage 2 1/2# and 2nd stage 2#. If you're pulling 2 1/2#, how do you feel a 2# "wall" before the break?? What am I not getting here?
 
I do have a question about the Larue MBT. It's specs say 4 1/2# pull with 1st stage 2 1/2# and 2nd stage 2#. If you're pulling 2 1/2#, how do you feel a 2# "wall" before the break?? What am I not getting here?
At the wall, the pull goes up from 2.5 lb to 4.5, because the 2nd stage is another 2 lb. This is why it's great for precise fire and rapid fire - when you're pulling the trigger slowly, you feel the 2nd stage. Under rapid fire, you go right past it and barely feel it, or don't at all.

2.5 + 2 = 4.5
 
At the wall, the pull goes up from 2.5 lb to 4.5, because the 2nd stage is another 2 lb. This is why it's great for precise fire and rapid fire - when you're pulling the trigger slowly, you feel the 2nd stage. Under rapid fire, you go right past it and barely feel it, or don't at all.

2.5 + 2 = 4.5
Duh!! Thanx for the instruction, without pointing out what an idiot I am.:confused:
 
Duh!! Thanx for the instruction, without pointing out what an idiot I am.:confused:
Trust me, I've been that idiot.

That second stage is what they need to get right, so you have a short, consistent, predictable break. The good ones are amazing. With the SSA-E, on the bench I get on the target, stage the trigger, and it's almost like all I do is think "fire" and it goes off. Very, very smooth, clean break.
 

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