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Anyone have experience with something like this?

no, but if your wanting to hunt those kind of scopes are illegal to hunt with in Oregon.
 
I really haven't looked at much. Mostly been a red dot guy on my 15's so figured scope on the 10 just to be different and have options.

Lots of good options listed and I appreciate @clanhanson sharing info about 2-12 being better than 1-10. I do have an LPVO 1-8 on one of my pistols.

It looks like several recommendations for the SWFA as a cost to quality leader, so I will look at those.

Anyone have experience with something like this?

It'll probably work... until it doesn't. I'd focus on quality glass without electronic gizmos. Good glass will make shooting easier and more enjoyable.

Not to mention the legal issues in most states associated with electronic ranging optics.
 
Vortex PST Gen II 3-15 can usually be found for $6-700 and is a great scope. I have a 5-25 also but think the glass in the 3-15 is better. I have the 3-15 on my 16" 308 AR-10 and have hit our 1000 yard gong many times.
 
If this is your first scoped rifle and your not certain what you want to taylor the scope for Id start with a basic affordable scope in/around the 3-9 range and go to town learning to shoot farther out.
 
Of these 2, both are brands recommended and her in classified, which would be a better option.


 
I really haven't looked at much. Mostly been a red dot guy on my 15's so figured scope on the 10 just to be different and have options.

Lots of good options listed and I appreciate @clanhanson sharing info about 2-12 being better than 1-10. I do have an LPVO 1-8 on one of my pistols.

It looks like several recommendations for the SWFA as a cost to quality leader, so I will look at those.

Anyone have experience with something like this?

Experience = no. But figure more electronics, regardless the product, usually means (at least) three things: more to go wrong, more cost, and more weight. Since your OP mentioned "end of the world situation" you may want to emphasize scopes/sights that are reasonably simple, as opposed to the most complex possible.

BTW, your link was to a Burris Eliminator III. Do they even make those anymore? Pretty sure they're obsolete. I believe the current version is 5.
 
Of these 2, both are brands recommended and her in classified, which would be a better option.


I have the Arken on my AR10.
While it is a great scope for the money I would pick the SWFA 3-15.

Since it's a .308 you don't really need a cantilever scope
Plenty of room up top for a set of rings which is quite a bit less money for good ones than a one piece.
 
It's an AR10, already a heavy gun.
Adding an Arken SH4 or EP1 adds almost two pounds to it. The bigger problem is putting a large objective (50mm, etc) on an AR, it has to sit in high rings, which means your head is way above the buttstock, and thus you need a stock with an adjustable cheek riser.
I had a Sig Tango 6 1-8 FFP on mine for a while. Outstanding glass, rugged AF, but heavy like a piano. I sold it.
I currently have a Sightron S-Tac. It's heavier than I'd like, but the optical performance is superb. Not my best scope, but I certainly didn't pay much for it.
If you want something with excellent clarity and zoom, smaller objective so it doesn't sit so high above the rifle, and *very* affordable, I'd look at the Burris Fullfield E1, ~$180 on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019KDSRBG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A lot of people say get beefy rings, but I find simple, light ones work great. The recoil on an AR10 is pretty mild, and you don't need all the heft in your rings.
Edit to add, I have the Burris on my 260 Rem mountain rifle.
 
It's an AR10, already a heavy gun.
Adding an Arken SH4 or EP1 adds almost two pounds to it. The bigger problem is putting a large objective (50mm, etc) on an AR, it has to sit in high rings, which means your head is way above the buttstock, and thus you need a stock with an adjustable cheek riser.
I had a Sig Tango 6 1-8 FFP on mine for a while. Outstanding glass, rugged AF, but heavy like a piano. I sold it.
I currently have a Sightron S-Tac. It's heavier than I'd like, but the optical performance is superb. Not my best scope, but I certainly didn't pay much for it.
If you want something with excellent clarity and zoom, smaller objective so it doesn't sit so high above the rifle, and *very* affordable, I'd look at the Burris Fullfield E1, ~$180 on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019KDSRBG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A lot of people say get beefy rings, but I find simple, light ones work great. The recoil on an AR10 is pretty mild, and you don't need all the heft in your rings.
Edit to add, I have the Burris on my 260 Rem mountain rifle.
Having seen high speed footage of .308 gas weapons firing, the recoil is far from mild from the optic's perspective. Heft is good, hefty is durable. An AR10 18" with a red dot cripples its usability; if you want a battle rifle, get a battle rifle (SCAR, MARS-H 16", Bren, Tavor 7, etc). An AR10 will batter and ruin a cheap optic and cheap rings (yes, light rings are wimpy) fairly quickly.
 
Having seen high speed footage of .308 gas weapons firing, the recoil is far from mild from the optic's perspective. Heft is good, hefty is durable. An AR10 18" with a red dot cripples its usability; if you want a battle rifle, get a battle rifle (SCAR, MARS-H 16", Bren, Tavor 7, etc). An AR10 will batter and ruin a cheap optic and cheap rings (yes, light rings are wimpy) fairly quickly.
Yah, OK. Go for it. I have light, QD rings holding mine, work great and zero problems in over 400 rounds. No loss of zero, no drift, no broken scope. A lighter scope doesn't demand as beefy a ring because of the radically different forces
 
It's an AR10, already a heavy gun.
Adding an Arken SH4 or EP1 adds almost two pounds to it. The bigger problem is putting a large objective (50mm, etc) on an AR, it has to sit in high rings, which means your head is way above the buttstock, and thus you need a stock with an adjustable cheek riser.
I had a Sig Tango 6 1-8 FFP on mine for a while. Outstanding glass, rugged AF, but heavy like a piano. I sold it.
I currently have a Sightron S-Tac. It's heavier than I'd like, but the optical performance is superb. Not my best scope, but I certainly didn't pay much for it.
If you want something with excellent clarity and zoom, smaller objective so it doesn't sit so high above the rifle, and *very* affordable, I'd look at the Burris Fullfield E1, ~$180 on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019KDSRBG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A lot of people say get beefy rings, but I find simple, light ones work great. The recoil on an AR10 is pretty mild, and you don't need all the heft in your rings.
Edit to add, I have the Burris on my 260 Rem mountain rifle.
You don't need high rings to clear the objective.
I had a 1.5" tall mount on mine.
And it doesn't add 2 pounds, with the mount it's 3 pounds.

I run it with a 1.93" tall mount now with no cheek riser.
I use a QD mount and swap it with a red dot on a 1.8" QD mount.
yMglHIXh.jpg

If I really wanted to go light with it I would use my NF 2.5-10x42 on it, also on a 1.93" mount.
Compact and light, with the mount it's 27 oz.
 
Can't go wrong with a good old $300 Leupold 3-9x40. And a $80-ish mount. Like Aero or Warne.

For real world applications, the 3-9 is the sweet spot. And keeps the weight down.

For an auto loader, you don't need a giant high magnification scope with target turrets.
Unless you are strictly using it from the bench. Just my opinion.
 
Back and forth between a few scopes. Ended up with original selection Nikon M-308 4-16 BDC w 20 MOA M-308 base and 168gr Fed SMK. 18" M&P 10 zeroed at a hundy- work up and down the range from 600 with BDC easy peasy. Gets a little weird after 600 imo with dem 168s. Wanna stretch it out a little more you can run a 175/185 and make 7/8s a little more consistent. But man fun as hell all day long with a BDC working the range quickly

IMG_1552.jpeg IMG_1550.jpeg
 

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