Where to sample BP revolvers in Pierce County region

[User 1234]

I've been considering a cap and ball single action. Are there regular BP shoots in the Pierce County area where I could chip in for supplies and learn from someone for an hour or two?

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[Andy54Hawken]

If you weren't so far away , I'd be happy to have you shoot some of mine.

Black powder revolvers are fun , if messy to shoot.
To load* :
Check to see if the revolver is unloaded....
Put percussion caps on the nipples ( all six ) ...fire the revolver..this is done to blow out any oil / debris out of the chambers and barrel...
Load powder in each chamber...
Load your filler , some folks like Cream of wheat , I use a greased felt revolver wad of the appropriate caliber...
Using the loading rod under the barrel , gently push the filler down to the powder...
Load your round ball or bullets...again gently push the ball or bullet down with the loading rod...you will see a "shaving ring" of lead at the cylinder face...that is okay....
Lightly grease the cylinder face over the round balls / bullets with : Bore butter , Crisco , bullet lube , Deer tallow , etc...
Place caps on the nipples , all six if you are going to shoot right away...if not I like to :
Place a cap on the first nipple , skip the next and place the next...that way the hammer rests on uncapped nipple...its a safe , easy way to carry your revolver ...plus its historically correct to do it this way**
Fire....

Now some things to think about :
Your caps might fall off...to keep this from happening so often , lightly pinch them when placing on the nipples...
If they do fall off , chances are that they will land under the hammer or cylinder and will gum up / jam up your revolver...

As a general rule most historic / replica Cap and Ball revolvers were /are sighted in at 75 yards ...so you may be a foot high or so at 25 yards or less...

If you do not grease the front of your cylinder , you may get a "chain fire" , this is where a flash or spark ignites all the powder in all the chambers... This is "exciting" to say the least...GREASE THE FRONT OF YOUR CYLINDER...

Reload the same way as above and shoot again...after a few cylinders , it is a good idea to take apart your revolver and give it a light cleaning....Now you know why Josey Wales carried so many revolvers on his person and horse....

*Loads...
Most "Navy" revolvers work best with 15-18 grains of 2F / 3F and a .375 round ball.
( Unless they are brass framed , then I'd suggest 12-15 grains of powder )
Most "Army" revolvers work best with 18-25 grains of 2F /3F powder and a .451-.454 round ball.
Most "Dragoons" work well with 25-40 grains of 2F / 3F and a .451-.454 round ball.
Most "Walkers" work well with 40-50 grains of 2F / 3F and a .451-454 round ball.

** Yes I know that some original revolvers , depending on their date and all new replicas come with "safety pins" on the cylinder...to use those often , can put excessive wear on the cylinder hand , throwing your revolver out of timing.....
Andy

 

[User 1234]

Thanks, that is very helpful.

 

[UnionMillsNW]

I recommend swinging on down to Muzzleloaders Supply in Puyallup ( Muzzleloaders Supply | Guns and Firearms | Puyallup, WA) to ask questions and learn more about the hobby. The owners are a knowledgeable and friendly couple. I don't shoot BP often but when I do they are the only place I go.

 

[bsa1917hunter]

Andy is the man when it comes to black powder. One thing I have to mention is most died in the wool black powder shooters prefer real black powder, but from what I remember when I was shooting mine, Pyrodex was a lot easier to find. Contrary to some belief, Pyrodex also works great in a cap and ball revolver. I've fired thousands of rounds from both cap and ball revolvers and rifles to know this. Andy is spot on when it comes to loading the cap and ball revolver. If you decide to buy a black powder revolver, I'd look at Cabela's and get a starter kit. I'd also suggest buying a good powder flask, one that accurately and quickly measures the charge and specific to the caliber you choose. Here's the one I used for my 44:
Pedersoli Colt® Pattern Powder Flask : Cabela's

The first 44 cal cap and ball I had was from Cabela's, when I was 13 or 14. It was very similar to this:
Pietta Model 1858 New Army .44-Caliber Black Powder Revolver : Cabela's

I still have a 36 cal cap and ball that was my grandfathers. They are loads of fun. Good luck with it...

 

[User 1234]

I recommend swinging on down to Muzzleloaders Supply in Puyallup ( Muzzleloaders Supply | Guns and Firearms | Puyallup, WA) to ask questions and learn more about the hobby. The owners are a knowledgeable and friendly couple. I don't shoot BP often but when I do they are the only place I go.

I'm lucky living in the same town as the only BP specialty store in Washington. I'll look for a starter kit there as I would prefer to support a local business. Also, the last time I was in Bass Pro Shops and complained that they were selling Yeti products which support anti-2A lobbying, BPS ignored me.

 

[Andy54Hawken]

If you ever get up this way...be sure to check out Greene's Gun Shop ( The Hawken Shop ) in Oak Harbor...Lots of Black Powder guns , supplies and a nice range as well.
At times some guy named Andy hangs out there showing off some old guns too....
Andy

 

[bsa1917hunter]

If you ever get up this way...be sure to check out Greene's Gun Shop ( The Hawken Shop ) in Oak Harbor...Lots of Black Powder guns , supplies and a nice range as well.
At times some guy named Andy hangs out there showing off some old guns too....
Andy

I'd personally like to meet this Andy guy you speak so highly of..

 

[User 1234]

I think I saw that Andy guy on a poster in the post office, must be famous.

 

[Andy54Hawken]

Yep ...that's me a legend in my own mind...
Andy

 

[UnionMillsNW]

You may save a few dollars up front by buying entry level supplies at Cabela's but their customer service for any BP problems you may encounter has much to be desired. The local shop will set you up right, has the knowledge, and customer service is bar none. To me that is worth a few extra dollars.

Once you get your set up please post a picture so we can all appreciate your new hobby.

Safe Shooting!

 

[User 1234]

Thanks everyone, and Merry Christmas

 

[tac]

Contrary to some belief, Pyrodex also works great in a cap and ball revolver.

I'm not sure where this came from. Pyrodex, particularly Pyrodex P [the P stands for pistol] works just fine in a percussion gun of any kind. It does NOT work well, if at all, in a flintlock pan, as the ignition temperature for Pyrodex is way higher than that of black powder and the spark does not ignite it well...

I've been shooting 99% Pyrodex in my couple of percussion revolvers since March 2nd, 1986, and for four years before that in Berlin, shooting somebody else's. BP, being an explosive, was prohibited in Berlin under the Four Power Agreement limiting access to military calibre firearms and explosives for civilians [I was not a civilian, but I WAS a member of BSN Heros, a civilian club, that shot at Rose Ranges in the US Sector]/ All there was, was Pyrodex, and we shot a TON of it. I shoot two loads - 24gr and 30gr, but NO wad and NO grease, just an emoluent water-based handcream called E45. It washes away when cleaning, taking all the crud with it. Do NOT use ANY kind of petroleum-based grease on the cylinder axis pin - the heat will turn it to a solid mass of coked-on carbon.

As an example, here is Pyrodex P not working in a Ruger Old Army -

From the Hodgdon reloading guide [they make the stuff, BTW] -

Hodgdon Pyrodex P is intended to be a direct replacement for FFFg Black powder when measured volumetrically using a black powder measure. The principal uses for Pyrodex P are in muzzleloading pistols, cap and ball revolvers, and in small bore, muzzleloading rifles.

 

[johnny bob]

* Yes I know that some original revolvers , depending on their date and all new replicas come with "safety pins" on the cylinder...to use those often , can put excessive wear on the cylinder hand , throwing your revolver out of timing.....
Andy

Andy What are the safety pins you mention?

 

[Andy54Hawken]

Andy What are the safety pins you mention?

On the back of the cylinder , in between each nipple , there is a small pin that sticks out a bit ...Colt started putting these on the later production 1851 series of revolvers , then added them to the rest of the Colt models.
The come on all replica revolvers now , regardless of model or make.
Andy

 

[Andy54Hawken]

Pyrodex will work in revolvers...and for those the like it or have to use it ...well enjoy.

I do not like it , nor have I found that it lives up to its claims of being "cleaner" , I have found it to be more corrosive than true black powder.

As said above , and it bears repeating : Do not use it , in a flintlock...unless you like "hangfires" , "flash in the pan" and general no damn good at all products.
Andy

 

[tac]

Here in yUK, as in many parts of American and Canada, you shoot what you can get, or you hang it on a peg.

 

[Andy54Hawken]

Here in yUK, as in many parts of American and Canada, you shoot what you can get, or you hang it on a peg.

Yeah I feel for you tac...what with prices , laws , rules and such...you got to use what you have available.
Just was stating my dislike for the product....and would suggest that if possible , stick with black power if you can....
Andy

 

[johnny bob]

Andy and Tac thanks for the replies to my question. A couple of straight shooters.

 

[Andy54Hawken]

You are very welcome johnny bob...
tac knows his stuff for sure...always good to read his postings.
Andy