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Off topic, but sans caliper Trick: Lay a piece of paper on the side with the hole and do a pencil/crayon rub. Poke out the hole center. Then with the colored side facing down on the side you want to drill out... and backlighting... align the rub drawing with the ear you want to drill and mark through the drill hole you made from the other side.But i've done so little metalworking that I'm not confident I can place a blind hole in exactly the right spot,
I appreciate it, I got and ordered one before I saw your post, So I built this seems to great, everything works, had a guy tell me I need to check the head spacing before I fire, is that trueYour rifle, your call and that's perfectly good enough for any of us.
I mentioned earlier... if you're good with black... I have a few spare magpul's exactly like yours... or a black billet aluminum low profile trigger guard you're welcome to. Pins included. First rifle get's a free boo-boo pass and save yourself the 20 bones... if that color works for you.
Private message if you want one.
It's always a good idea to check headspace with any new barrel and bolt combination. Go-No go gages aren't exactly cheap though ($90-$120) and not very practical for a one time build. It sounds like you bought a pre assembled PSA upper and likely came with a BCG(?) With a supplied bolt and BCG combo, odds are great you're going to be just fine and I wouldn't worry too much about it... unless, there are obvious issues once you take it out for test firing.I appreciate it, I got and ordered one before I saw your post, So I built this seems to great, everything works, had a guy tell me I need to check the head spacing before I fire, is that true
Well if you are not comfortable with the fix then take it to a local gunsmith and have him fix it shouldn't cost more than an arm and a leg hopefully less!This is basically what I did when I drove a bolt catch roll pin into an upper that I didn't realize was "enhanced" and threaded for one of those screws. I cut through the bolt catch and the pin then pulled the pieces out with pliers. The same approach would work here, and probably be a lot less effort than the drilling and tapping suggestions.