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I agree and is maybe new from last year. When we bought at end of '22 I looked that up and it seemed like it wasn't an issue.

Again my option may have to be pavers or just repair the current gravel out front. Because of the septic truck.
 
I agree and is maybe new from last year. When we bought at end of '22 I looked that up and it seemed like it wasn't an issue.

Again my option may have to be pavers or just repair the current gravel out front. Because of the septic truck.
What's the material of the septic tank and what's its bury depth (to the top of the tank, not the access manholes)?
 
What's the material of the septic tank and what's its bury depth (to the top of the tank, not the access manholes)?
So they would drive over it it's on the opposite side from where I wanted to park. I was mostly thinking that the trucks would be too heavy and might crack concrete if not built for it.
 
So they would drive over it it's on the opposite side from where I wanted to park. I was mostly thinking that the trucks would be too heavy and might crack concrete if not built for it.
If it's concrete and not HDPE, you've basically got it made, unless the flat top is really near the surface. Three feet or more down, and you're pretty much golden. The weight spreads out so much as the zone of influence widens that by the time the load reaches the tank top, it's below the strength of the concrete. Not so if the tank is buried shallow...
 
When talking "gravel" it is important to consider that there are two basic types of crushed rock. One is made from round river rock and the other from solid stone.

Crushed river rock will have smooth rounded corners on part of it's surface. The larger the stone they start with, the less this is a problem, but most has a lot of rounded surfaces. Note that there is also river rock sold for driveway use that is not crushed, and this is totally unsuitable for that purpose. Rounded, smooth surfaces do not compact well, and will move around when subjected to traffic. Kind of like driving on a surface made from bearing balls.

Crushed quarry rock, being made from solid material that is blown up with explosives, has fractured, irregular surfaces that lock together when compacted. This is the proper material for a driveway or parking area. It is also the proper material for a base under asphalt or concrete.

In the Vancouver area, you will have both types of crushed rock, and because of improper choice of words, either can come from a "pit." You have to be very specific when ordering.
 
When talking "gravel" it is important to consider that there are two basic types of crushed rock. One is made from round river rock and the other from solid stone.

Crushed river rock will have smooth rounded corners on part of it's surface. The larger the stone they start with, the less this is a problem, but most has a lot of rounded surfaces. Note that there is also river rock sold for driveway use that is not crushed, and this is totally unsuitable for that purpose. Rounded, smooth surfaces do not compact well, and will move around when subjected to traffic. Kind of like driving on a surface made from bearing balls.

Crushed quarry rock, being made from solid material that is blown up with explosives, has fractured, irregular surfaces that lock together when compacted. This is the proper material for a driveway or parking area. It is also the proper material for a base under asphalt or concrete.

In the Vancouver area, you will have both types of crushed rock, and because of improper choice of words, either can come from a "pit." You have to be very specific when ordering.
Yes, we call that Crushed Surfacing Base Course and Crushed Surfacing Top Course in the bid'ness.
What he needs to use is CSBC and/or CSTC, not round river rock or pea gravel...
 
In my experience, it is unwise to put a French Drain sump under a driveway, road, or parking area. A French Drain under those areas would only be used to remove ground water from under them to transport it away from the surface traffic. Otherwise, you are just creating a mud hole that will undermine the gravel.
 
In my experience, it is unwise to put a French Drain sump under a driveway, road, or parking area. A French Drain under those areas would only be used to remove ground water from under them to transport it away from the surface traffic. Otherwise, you are just creating a mud hole that will undermine the gravel.
Indeed. It would be much better to use drain tile and pipe the water beneath the gravel to an outfall. And the drain tile will allow for intrusion of the water that seeps down through the gravel from above the tile. Intrusion is OK, since the water is being piped away already.
 
Yes, we call that Crushed Surfacing Base Course and Crushed Surfacing Top Course in the bid'ness.
What he needs to use is CSBC and/or CSTC, not round river rock or pea gravel...
I had a rock quarry for 15 years, and often was called on to "fix" a driveway that had been built of round rock. I always insisted that all the round rock be removed before starting to put down quarry rock.
 
You can successfully use "3/4-minus" crushed quarry rock for making a driveway or parking area only if a number of conditions are met:

The area must be well-drained.
The soil must be stable and have a high bearing strength.
The soil must be well compacted.
There are no underground structures or lines that might fail under heavy loads.
The traffic will be limited to cars and pickup trucks, except in Summer months.

Using road fabric will help, but not make up for an exception to the above rules. There is a reason for engineers using "Crushed Surfacing Base Course."
 
I've installed concrete grass grids with good results.
Once the grass grows in the grid pockets, you couldn't tell that the grids were installed, especially if the top of the grid blocks were painted green before installing.
 
i know gravel not an option but I said I would post the picture of the area. First is from sidewalk and second from edge of house. I just removed a shed from the gravel area.

IMG_1461.jpeg IMG_1462.jpeg
 
Idk, I'd go the form route that was suggested and paint the top green and then let the grass grow back and call it a day.

If it's just overflow parking it doesn't have to be perfect.

Just my 2¢.
 
Are you referring to @jbett98 post?

I don't think I understand exactly what this is. Can either of you point me to something to understand what this is?

Agreed doesn't have to be perfect.
 
I bought mine at Willamette Greystone in Wood Village, OR.
I saved some money buying number 2 grade, they have some slight color and texture differences and a few with corner chips. which isn't an issue if you're seeding grass into the grids.
This video shows what they look live while installing. They're are plastic grids available for less money, but they don't hold up as well with daily vehicle traffic.



View: https://youtu.be/lRa2i8Syxxg
 
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Thank you. Reevaluating the project and what we can do vs some other stuff I want to get done at the house.
I bought at the end of 22 and it was a semi fixer. Nothing horrible just nothing updated in 50years since house was built.
Already put in a new kitchen and most of the interior minus a few small projects.
Now starting on the exterior.

My Other big project I want to do is insulated vinyl siding and quiet windows.

With the larger cost of driveway I need to decide which we want to do first.
 
I see Vancouver has its share of Kens and Karens running things. Who cares where you park your are or what you park it on?? Exactly what benefit is this rule other than to give some petty tyrant a bit of control??
When we bought this house I had intended to lengthen the shop about 40'. Had a contractor friend check with the City of Potland because I refuse to deal with those people. The city said I have too much roof and was concerned about runoff, but if I paid $1000 in extortion, they MIGHT give me a variance. The area under what would have been the new shop has been concrete since at least 1985 and perhaps earlier than that, so there's not going to be much change to the runoff, except maybe better control with gutters.
If the rule is that important why is there a variance available?? If it isn't that important, why is the rule there in the first place?? Money-grubbing control freaks is why.
 
I see Vancouver has its share of Kens and Karens running things. Who cares where you park your are or what you park it on?? Exactly what benefit is this rule other than to give some petty tyrant a bit of control??
When we bought this house I had intended to lengthen the shop about 40'. Had a contractor friend check with the City of Potland because I refuse to deal with those people. The city said I have too much roof and was concerned about runoff, but if I paid $1000 in extortion, they MIGHT give me a variance. The area under what would have been the new shop has been concrete since at least 1985 and perhaps earlier than that, so there's not going to be much change to the runoff, except maybe better control with gutters.
If the rule is that important why is there a variance available?? If it isn't that important, why is the rule there in the first place?? Money-grubbing control freaks is why.
I'm so so so glad my house is outside Vancouver city limits for so many reasons.

They are a bunch of corrupt bureaucrats. The Mayor being one of the worst.
 

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