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Well that was a lot of work, but I got it done. My soft jaws were not up to the task of holding the barrel, but my vice had a pipe holder and the metal was softer than the barrel. That thing is now dead nuts the correct way and I only had to open a new bag of shims to get it there. Red loctight reapplied and I hope I am never that dumb again.
 
It's not uncommon for them to get stuck after shooting. The combination of heat cycling and carbon build up can get in the threads between the suppressor and muzzle device and cause stickage.

I do wish they wouldn't have standardized on RH threads on barrels (for us Colonials, anyway). The whole problem could be negated with a LH thread.
LH threads would have been ideal, but everyone would be arguing over if the muzzle device or the can adapter should be the one to have the weird threads. On the one hand almost everyone uses a muzzle devices, and not a lot of people use suppressors, so making the entire muzzle device ecosystem left handed would seem kinda silly. On the other hand people who do use suppressors take them on and off regularly (in theory anyway) and having that be a left handed thread would really mess with your head. In the end (almost) everyone just decided to stick with right handed threads and let people figure out how to secure the muzzle device on their own. Some of us choose to use red loctight to do that :s0140:

This is what tri-lug mounts are for.
Tri-lugs have their own issues, namely concentricity as they wear. I have also heard that if they foul stuck they are almost impossible to get off, but I would imagine that with all the space you would really have to neglect them to have that happen. I am getting a tri-lug can soon, so I hope to be able to play with all this myself.
 
LH threads would have been ideal, but everyone would be arguing over if the muzzle device or the can adapter should be the one to have the weird threads. On the one hand almost everyone uses a muzzle devices, and not a lot of people use suppressors, so making the entire muzzle device ecosystem left handed would seem kinda silly. On the other hand people who do use suppressors take them on and off regularly (in theory anyway) and having that be a left handed thread would really mess with your head. In the end (almost) everyone just decided to stick with right handed threads and let people figure out how to secure the muzzle device on their own. Some of us choose to use red loctight to do that :s0140:
Wow, that might be the longest paragraph you've ever typed up that came to no conclusion!

Tri-lugs have their own issues, namely concentricity as they wear. I have also heard that if they foul stuck they are almost impossible to get off, but I would imagine that with all the space you would really have to neglect them to have that happen. I am getting a tri-lug can soon, so I hope to be able to play with all this myself.
Lube is the key. I have a Griffin Armament tri-lug on my MPX. It's never been stuck. Some high-temp synthetic axle grease maker her nice and slippery, even after all the loads have been fired.
 
View attachment 1869459

Well that was a lot of work, but I got it done. My soft jaws were not up to the task of holding the barrel, but my vice had a pipe holder and the metal was softer than the barrel. That thing is now dead nuts the correct way and I only had to open a new bag of shims to get it there. Red loctight reapplied and I hope I am never that dumb again.
Looks to be clocked ~1/10 of a degree off. Better go redo it.
 
I like to clock all my guns just off enough to bother other people who look at em. Or just not clock them at all because YOLO or something
It's one of the reasons I use 3-prong flash hiders instead of brakes.

I hate screwing around with the damn shims to get it just right. If it's off, it's going to bug me.

With a 3-prong hider, you screw it on and where it lands is where it lives forever.
 
It's one of the reasons I use 3-prong flash hiders instead of brakes.

I hate screwing around with the damn shims to get it just right. If it's off, it's going to bug me.

With a 3-prong hider, you screw it on and where it lands is where it lives forever.
Yeah, I have a lot of muzzle devices that don't need clocking. Just a crush washer to keep things tight and the will to use it. But breaks are really nice, and they kinda need to be clocked if you want them to be most effective. I had the option to get the non-clocking adapters, but the breaks do do a little bit to help the can be more effective. It was worth the hassle for me to set it up optimally.
 
Yeah, I have a lot of muzzle devices that don't need clocking. Just a crush washer to keep things tight and the will to use it. But breaks are really nice, and they kinda need to be clocked if you want them to be most effective. I had the option to get the non-clocking adapters, but the breaks do do a little bit to help the can be more effective. It was worth the hassle for me to set it up optimally.
Does a brake inside a suppressor really do anything?

I only have the 1 brake that came with my suppressor and it lives on a 6.5 Grendel. Every other rifle is either direct thread (30-06) or flash hider (5.56, 308, 30-30, 6.5CM)
 
Does a brake inside a suppressor really do anything?

I only have the 1 brake that came with my suppressor and it lives on a 6.5 Grendel. Every other rifle is either direct thread (30-06) or flash hider (5.56, 308, 30-30, 6.5CM)

I assumed that it also served as a wear part, taking the brunt of the heat and pressure, but it looks like I've been wrong once already in this thread. So maybe it's just a break for when your suppressor is on another gun.
 

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