- Messages
- 23,239
- Reactions
- 111,358
Well now you got yer rifle , but what else do ya need for shooting ?
Generally speaking you can go about this two ways , a "minimalist approach" or buying all the gadgets that one is "supposed" to need.
I prefer the minimalist approach...others will no doubt disagree with this notion.
For percussion guns :
Caps , these are generally number 11 caps...but some guns use musket caps.
I like CCI caps. CCI makes "regular" and "Magnum" , supposedly the "Magnum" caps burn hotter....
I find that both work well , so I buy whatever is in stock or cheaper.
A capper may be useful for putting the caps on the nipple...if you buy one , make sure it is for the size of caps that you need.
I use a homemade cap box to store my caps and forgo the use of a capper.
With that said...a leather strip or circle with holes cut around the edge to hold the caps works well also , for both storage and as a capper.
Round Ball of the proper size...can be store bought , or ones you made yourself...this will require a round ball mold , a melting pot , lead , and a ladle...also a new thread on this subject...
If one uses a conical bullet...then patches are not needed.
Patches of the proper size...store bought ready made to size or strips , that you cut to size.
As an example my .54 Hawken loads and shoots best with a .15 patch and .530 round ball.
Somethng to keep in mind here , is that one company's .15 patch or .530 round ball maybe different than another company's .15 patch or .530 round ball
Round balls and patches come in many different sizes...I posted earlier on this subject with two threads :
Loads for muzzleoading rifles and Roundball for your muzzleloader
Lube...
I use spit when shooting at the range or plinking....bear grease or deer tallow when hunting.
Crisco and olive oil are also popular.
Other folks like store bought lube like T/C's Bore Butter and others of this type.
Powder...
I prefer to use real black powder by Goex in 2F.
Other powders are available , including Black Powder Substitutes like PYRODEX.
In my experience , PYRODEX and the like are far and away , more corrosive than real black powder.
Having made that statement before , I understand that others think differently.
A shooting bag and horn or flask.
These come in all manner of sizes and material...some horns are attached to the shooting bag , some are on a separate strap.
I like a leather bag of the smaller size with the horn attached to the bag.
A powder measure.
This can be a machined one , that is adjustable or one that is "fixed" , as in one that one "throws" a single amount of powder.
If one uses a flask , some flask spouts are fixed or adjustable as well.
A nipple wrench...this removes the nipple for cleaning.
A mainspring vise....not often needed...but needed for removing the mainspring without damaging it.
A vent pick...another not often needed , but useful tool to clean out the vent hole .
A screwdriver , to remove the lock , when cleaning.
A short starter... Looks for all world , like a short ram rod , helps when starting the ball and patch down the bore , when loading the rifle.
I try not to use one...but they are handy , 'cause as noted before , some sizes of patches and ball are not the same.
Speaking of ram rods...some folks like to use a "range rod"...this is a loading / cleaning rod that is separate from the rifle.
Usually a range rod is made of some sort of synthetic material or brass.
I just use my rifle's ram rod for loading...and have different rod for cleaning.
Many opinions abound on ram rods....so I am sure that someone will chime in with how they do it.
Flintlocks
Much of the above can be used for flintlocks , some exceptions noted below.
Flints...these come in different sizes.
Most common sizes are : 5/8 , 3/4 , 1 inch and 1 1/8
English and French are both good to use for knapped flints.
Flints also come in cut or saw cut...I don't like these and can not recommend their use.
Bevel up or bevel down...?
Simple answer here , how does the flint fit in the lock...? , Place the flint the way it fits in the lock and not hitting the barrel.
Flints will last for as few a couple of shots or long as 30 or more...
Also some sort of knapping tool , to sharpen the flint when it gets chipped or dull...it can be a "knapping hammer" , knife spine , I use a hand forged screwdriver.
Powder...Use only real black powder with flintlocks.
Substitute black powder will only cause slow ignition , and or failures to fire .
Some folks like to use 4 F priming powder for the pan... I do not.
A small screwdriver to work the hammer jaw screw , is good to have...I have a hand forged one that I can also use to knapp the flint , when it gets dull or chipped.
A vent pick is needed to clean out the vent hole.
And that's it....In my experience , you do not need a wagon load of goods to shoot your muzzleloading rifle.
Andy
Generally speaking you can go about this two ways , a "minimalist approach" or buying all the gadgets that one is "supposed" to need.
I prefer the minimalist approach...others will no doubt disagree with this notion.
For percussion guns :
Caps , these are generally number 11 caps...but some guns use musket caps.
I like CCI caps. CCI makes "regular" and "Magnum" , supposedly the "Magnum" caps burn hotter....
I find that both work well , so I buy whatever is in stock or cheaper.
A capper may be useful for putting the caps on the nipple...if you buy one , make sure it is for the size of caps that you need.
I use a homemade cap box to store my caps and forgo the use of a capper.
With that said...a leather strip or circle with holes cut around the edge to hold the caps works well also , for both storage and as a capper.
Round Ball of the proper size...can be store bought , or ones you made yourself...this will require a round ball mold , a melting pot , lead , and a ladle...also a new thread on this subject...
If one uses a conical bullet...then patches are not needed.
Patches of the proper size...store bought ready made to size or strips , that you cut to size.
As an example my .54 Hawken loads and shoots best with a .15 patch and .530 round ball.
Somethng to keep in mind here , is that one company's .15 patch or .530 round ball maybe different than another company's .15 patch or .530 round ball
Round balls and patches come in many different sizes...I posted earlier on this subject with two threads :
Loads for muzzleoading rifles and Roundball for your muzzleloader
Lube...
I use spit when shooting at the range or plinking....bear grease or deer tallow when hunting.
Crisco and olive oil are also popular.
Other folks like store bought lube like T/C's Bore Butter and others of this type.
Powder...
I prefer to use real black powder by Goex in 2F.
Other powders are available , including Black Powder Substitutes like PYRODEX.
In my experience , PYRODEX and the like are far and away , more corrosive than real black powder.
Having made that statement before , I understand that others think differently.
A shooting bag and horn or flask.
These come in all manner of sizes and material...some horns are attached to the shooting bag , some are on a separate strap.
I like a leather bag of the smaller size with the horn attached to the bag.
A powder measure.
This can be a machined one , that is adjustable or one that is "fixed" , as in one that one "throws" a single amount of powder.
If one uses a flask , some flask spouts are fixed or adjustable as well.
A nipple wrench...this removes the nipple for cleaning.
A mainspring vise....not often needed...but needed for removing the mainspring without damaging it.
A vent pick...another not often needed , but useful tool to clean out the vent hole .
A screwdriver , to remove the lock , when cleaning.
A short starter... Looks for all world , like a short ram rod , helps when starting the ball and patch down the bore , when loading the rifle.
I try not to use one...but they are handy , 'cause as noted before , some sizes of patches and ball are not the same.
Speaking of ram rods...some folks like to use a "range rod"...this is a loading / cleaning rod that is separate from the rifle.
Usually a range rod is made of some sort of synthetic material or brass.
I just use my rifle's ram rod for loading...and have different rod for cleaning.
Many opinions abound on ram rods....so I am sure that someone will chime in with how they do it.
Flintlocks
Much of the above can be used for flintlocks , some exceptions noted below.
Flints...these come in different sizes.
Most common sizes are : 5/8 , 3/4 , 1 inch and 1 1/8
English and French are both good to use for knapped flints.
Flints also come in cut or saw cut...I don't like these and can not recommend their use.
Bevel up or bevel down...?
Simple answer here , how does the flint fit in the lock...? , Place the flint the way it fits in the lock and not hitting the barrel.
Flints will last for as few a couple of shots or long as 30 or more...
Also some sort of knapping tool , to sharpen the flint when it gets chipped or dull...it can be a "knapping hammer" , knife spine , I use a hand forged screwdriver.
Powder...Use only real black powder with flintlocks.
Substitute black powder will only cause slow ignition , and or failures to fire .
Some folks like to use 4 F priming powder for the pan... I do not.
A small screwdriver to work the hammer jaw screw , is good to have...I have a hand forged one that I can also use to knapp the flint , when it gets dull or chipped.
A vent pick is needed to clean out the vent hole.
And that's it....In my experience , you do not need a wagon load of goods to shoot your muzzleloading rifle.
Andy
