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Loading the 300 Blackout on a Dillon XL650 progressive reloader (with auto case feeder), using Accurate Arms #9 pistol powder.

BRASS: Lake City .223 brass, trimmed using a Dillon carbide 1200 electric trimmer. Trimmed to length using a Wilson Combat GO / NO-GO gauge. Case mouth chamfered using an RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep tool (sadly, the small primer pocket cutter did not even begin to remove the Lake City primer crimp, have to call RCBS and ask how this low lever of quality control could get by the inspectors, had to fall back to a carbide, hand cutter).

RELOADING DIES: RCBS, 300 blackout dies

CRIMP DIE: Lee Factory Crimp Die (set to factory directions) about 1/32inch of crimp

SHELL PLATE: Dillon .223 shell plate

PRIMERS: Wolf, small rifle primers.

POWDER: Accurate Arms #9. Test loads, ten each from 14.0 grains to 15.0 grains, in two grain increments.

BULLET: Wiedners, MBM2B .308, 150 gr M2 Projectiles, seated to an over all length of 2.258 (2.26 was too long to reliably work in a USGI aluminum mag with a MAGPUL no tilt follower.

The Dillon XL650 has some issues with the 300 BLK brass. I started using a standard XL650 conversion kit for .223. The shellplate worked great. The white insert for the brass system seemed to cause misfeeds because of the window to accommodate the longer .223 brass, I'll have to measure and cross reference one without the window, perhaps 9MM or .40 Cal???

The Small Rifle Brass Shell Plate for the auto brass feed system did not reliably feed 300 BLK brass into the tube, base first. Neither did the LARGE PISTOL, nor SMALL PISTOL plates. I had to fall back on manual brass feed, which is not what you want out of your XL650.

Off to the range for test firing. I will post pictures of the primers for each powder charge, looking for signs of excessive pressure, etc...

More tomorrow.
 
Excellent write up with great detail and specifics!

I'll be following your progress, and look forward to reading the setup that works for you, as I aim to load .300 BLK on my 650 soon. Your experimentation and posts may well save me from having to rediscover all the quirks you found.

Thanks!
 
U P D A T E: Just finished loading 1K. Some notes

1. Using Small Rifle Shellplate in case feed system: (a.) longest string of cases fed right side up = 24; (b.) most cases fed wrong side up = 4 in a row.

2. Keep a careful eye on stage one, cases that; (a.) feed wrong side up; (b.) don't sit down properly in the feed tray will cause the machine to jam or to launch a casing at high velocity across the room.

3. Case Prep is critical: I've been reloading with a mish mash of Lake City and commercial brass that I made. Primer pocket prep is key, need a reliable way to remove the military crimp. My RCBS gizmo has two possible primer pocket cutting tools, one (unbeknownst to me) is a primer pocket uniforming tool and not a primer crimp removing tool, had to go back and re-trip 5K primer pockets. Shall we say not happy?

4. Set up a good crimp: For the 1K loads, I came up with 14 dorked up primers that had to be disassembled. By bullet puller uploaded them with two whacks, the sign of a weak crimp. Given that I am using a Lee Factory Crimp Die, I think the case neck and bullet body are keeping the crimp "...weak....", perhaps a longer bullet body would be better, but I wanted a max of 150 grains of throw weight. Time will tell.

5. Be patient. Of all the calibers I load on my XL650, the 300 BLK is by far the most frustrating. Given the ballistics, I'm not certain what this round is giving me that my 10MM MP5 is not exceeding? That being said, the AR platform is certainly more robust and idiot proof than the MP5. This should make a good kid, wife, girl friend round.

That's all for now.
 
Exactly as noted in the very first post. XL 650, case feeder with small rifle plate. Just have to understand the gotchas in advance, be aware of what can go sideways (and it will), and be prepared. The XL 650 is the Ferrari of reloaders (I have owned literally EVERY manufacturers progressive reloaded, before purchasing this, my 2nd XL650). Lots of moving parts, understand it, keep it clean and lubricated and you will never regret the purchase.
 
Loading the 300 Blackout on a Dillon XL650 progressive reloader (with auto case feeder), using Accurate Arms #9 pistol powder.

BRASS: Lake City .223 brass, trimmed using a Dillon carbide 1200 electric trimmer. Trimmed to length using a Wilson Combat GO / NO-GO gauge. Case mouth chamfered using an RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep tool (sadly, the small primer pocket cutter did not even begin to remove the Lake City primer crimp, have to call RCBS and ask how this low lever of quality control could get by the inspectors, had to fall back to a carbide, hand cutter).

RELOADING DIES: RCBS, 300 blackout dies

CRIMP DIE: Lee Factory Crimp Die (set to factory directions) about 1/32inch of crimp

SHELL PLATE: Dillon .223 shell plate

PRIMERS: Wolf, small rifle primers.

POWDER: Accurate Arms #9. Test loads, ten each from 14.0 grains to 15.0 grains, in two grain increments.

BULLET: Wiedners, MBM2B .308, 150 gr M2 Projectiles, seated to an over all length of 2.258 (2.26 was too long to reliably work in a USGI aluminum mag with a MAGPUL no tilt follower.

The Dillon XL650 has some issues with the 300 BLK brass. I started using a standard XL650 conversion kit for .223. The shellplate worked great. The white insert for the brass system seemed to cause misfeeds because of the window to accommodate the longer .223 brass, I'll have to measure and cross reference one without the window, perhaps 9MM or .40 Cal???

The Small Rifle Brass Shell Plate for the auto brass feed system did not reliably feed 300 BLK brass into the tube, base first. Neither did the LARGE PISTOL, nor SMALL PISTOL plates. I had to fall back on manual brass feed, which is not what you want out of your XL650.

Off to the range for test firing. I will post pictures of the primers for each powder charge, looking for signs of excessive pressure, etc...

More tomorrow.

Two suggestions:

Close up the gap in the "white" adapter using some J-B Weld. Wax up a piece of dowel that will fit the ID, put some plumbers putty on the bottom of the opening and then just float the top of the opening with the epoxy. When hardened drive out the dowel, remove the putty and adjust the opening in the modified adapter with a dremel tool.

For the case feeder, slide the metal clip that is on the left side of the gap where cases fall through. Adjust left or right untl the case only drops nose first. I'ts designed to be moved so you can adjust the amount of the gap.
 
I swage the primer pockets with the RCBS swager die on my Rock Chucker and get good results.


I have heard that but never tried it, I am pretty much sold on the RCBS Case Prep Station, I can clean the primer pocket, make it uniform, remove the Mil Spec crimp, champfer the inside and outside with a single tool, in about fifteen seconds per case. If I am wearing gloves, and use both hands, I can even go faster.
 

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