Would you spend $25 on a target stand?

[rutilate]

I did some research instead of doing what I'm supposed to be doing and found a number of interesting ideas that might spur even more innovative ideas:

Here is a pretty cool steel basic but effective target hanger:
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The master index of DIY projects is at: <broken link removed>

This one is a very interesting design as it allows variable widths and is extremely portable, although rather expensive at $90 each:
https://targetmeister.com/store/product/dirty_harry_target_stand
A slightly smaller stand is $70. Staking addressed:
https://targetmeister.com/store/product/rowdy_yates_target_stand

This one folds up well but might need a locking mechanism to keep it set at the proper width without tearing the cardboard during relocation:
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I really like the idea of hanging steel as well as paper. My wife loves reactive targets and is uninterested in shooting paper. Thus, if I want her to attend with me, I need to let her shoot steel!

Based on what I've seen so far, I like the idea of the Targetmeister stands.

I need a stand that:

1. is ultraportable
2. Fits into my trunk/seat of my car
3. Allows me to shoot IDPA/USPSA sized cardboard targets
4. Can be staked for stability
5. Uses replaceable uprights (ie. wood strapping)

I would love a stand that:

1. Tightens up for stability, especially when moving the target with cardboard affixed
2. Allows different width targets
   
3. Can be adapted to hold steel targets

 

[Certaindeaf]

I miss the old school city dumps.. rats must die!

 

[rutilate]

Here are the two favorites so far:

This is seriously cool, although I'm choking on the price:
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I love the ease of set up/take down. It comes with a paper add-on and your choice of steel target faces. For an extra $30 you can request "heavy duty" but I'm not sure if that just means a 1/2" ar500 face vs. a 3/8" face.

Here is one of the most economical and versatile:
http://www.gttargets.com/paperstands.htm

If you buy the 4 or 6 pack, you get a nice carry box.

So, what kind of brilliant ideas and designs do these inspire?

 

[IronMonster]

There is some cool stuff there, The Action Target stuff is super cool but it would cost you several grand to set up a plinking range like the guy shows in the videos

The GT targets stuff is more in line with what I was thinking. Something like that style and price point I think is more practical for most folks.

I got some chunks of AR500 and I am going to make a few gongs and ringers and then get to work on some kind of folding/break down target stand

 

[OLDNEWBIE]

What would be the next best thing to AR500 that would hold up to .223 that you might find on the cheap?
I was thinking an old ball/towing hitch or some 10 lbs weightlifting weights? I see things like this at thrift stores all the time and wonder. I know cast iron won't work out.

 

[IronMonster]

Weights I think would be a very bad choice, not sure what trailer balls are made from.

I think for the most part there is no cheap and good sources of steel. AR500 is not really super expensive (I would guess I can get a 8" round circle cut out of 1/4" for maybe $10- $15?)

And AR500 is really a minimum. Many pro target makers used stuff that is better than that. (and that does get spendy)

 

[rutilate]

There was a great post on actiontarget.com's blog that talked about how dangerous shooting at any steel other than ar500 or better. In one case the military wanted to test lesser grades and the shooter got scalped. The metal bent slightly, stripped the jacket off the bullet, and as the metal rebounded, it slung the jacket right back at the shooter. Their conclusion was that any steel not hard enough to shatter the bullet was too dangerous to consider.

 

[OLDNEWBIE]

Sometimes seeing what a round can do to a thick piece of metal is fun too though!

 

[OLDNEWBIE]

There was a great post on actiontarget.com's blog that talked about how dangerous shooting at any steel other than ar500 or better. In one case the military wanted to test lesser grades and the shooter got scalped. The metal bent slightly, stripped the jacket off the bullet, and as the metal rebounded, it slung the jacket right back at the shooter. Their conclusion was that any steel not hard enough to shatter the bullet was too dangerous to consider.

I've shot metal with .223 that didn't penetrate but cratered deeply. Same piece the .308 punched right through.
As for safety, 100yds give or take and we shot/ observed prone as I was nervous about it at the time!

 

[IronMonster]

I have shot probably tens of thousands of rounds at mild steel. I shot silhouette's competitively when I was young and we had dozens of sets burned out of mild steel and set up all over the farm.

A SS109 5.56 will make a pock mark that is 5/8" deep in 1/2" plate (yes, I said that right) and just about any high powered rifle will punch straight through. Crazy part is though you shoot a .308 at 1/4" AR500 and it barely is noticeable (it helps if the target is not 90 deg to the shooter, a little angle helps dissipate a bunch of the energy

Shooting at mild steel can be dangerous, especially with high power rifles. If it doesn't penetrate You make a crater that sends the majority of the flak straight back at you. Not good

 

[rutilate]

It is cool, no question.
Here's a rather scary ricochet from sort of steel, no idea of the circumstances:

 

[FA9]

About a year ago I got the idea to make target stands to sell also. I came up with some cool ideas. It was portable, and pretty sturdy. The problem was, it was too easy to make, anybody could fabricate it just by looking at the pictures. I also started to do metal targets but it wasn't really worth it.

 

[Qjay]

1. What about the walls of an old water heater tank, or decommissioned propane tank?
I know I have seen fire extinguishers riddled with holes, but I can't really tell the material they are made of other than "steel", most of the time. What grade is the metal? My Google-fu is not up to the task.

2. For the first one, have you considered a plumbing-tee on the end of your upright? If you size it for your rebar or bottom support, I would think it would hold pretty well, depending on how you connect your target to the frame, and the backing material.

3. For the second, triangle-sided stand, what about rings welded to one end of each of the sides?
The bars would be shaped like this: -------------------------------------------------O
You could just slide the end of each bar through the O and lock it together at the top with a turnbuckle or a padlock and a rod through the middle as a hanger. A couple of mini spring clamps (maybe 3"?) should do to hold everything together if it were needed.
The non-ringed ends on the ground could be used as pegs to anchor the corners to prevent it from being flipped, if something high-powered enough were to transfer enough force to the frame from the hanging target.

Keep in mind these are just the thoughts that occurred to me when I was looking at the constructions you had posted. Your mileage may vary, but if you are looking to make it portable, you want it as simple and cheap as possible; I think these ideas might do the trick, or at least inspire something for you.