Wood stock too dry?

[F2CMaDMaXX]

So this is going to be a little difficult to accurately describe, and it's going to lead to some answers that might not make sense through no fault of the poster

I cleaned (not stripped) my 1903 stock some time ago, and started to top it up with linseed oil, this has been going fine, with one exception.

Whilst it looks good and oiled for up to about a week, maybe less, it gets dry patches, at least, "dry" is the best way i can describe it.

Obviously the oil finish has to dry, but i don't think it's drying correctly. It ends up being a pretty matte/dry look at this point, i'm really not sure it's supposed to look or be this way and i'm unsure what to do. It keeps taking oil, but i've put considerable amounts into it now, it can't still just be soaking in, some areas are ok, but there are several that dry out in this way.

They're not tacky/sticky when in this condition, they're also not smooth, they're not rough either, but they have high drag to them when i run my finger over that area.

Any suggestions, thoughts?

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[No_Regerts]

Have you done any sanding and staining before applying the oil? I use really fine grit sandpaper to even out the texture of the wood. I use an iron and a wet towell to steam out dents and raise the grain.

 

[The Heretic]

Wood being a natural organic substance is not going to dry/absorb evenly.

I haven't done this in decades, but there is such a thing as putting too much oil on a stock - witness what some old mil-surp stocks look like.

The last time I oiled a refinished stock I let it dry and then I put wax on top of the oil finish to protect the wood.

 

[308]

I like using Lemon Oil on my milsurp wood stocks. It's made for furnature. Smells good, absorbs well and doesn't stick to everything like BLO

 

[Medic!]

Linseed oil? Or Boiled linseed oil [BLO]?

 

[jbett98]

I like to finish a stock with black or brown shoe polish, depending on how dark I want the stocks wood grains to look.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Have you done any sanding and staining before applying the oil? I use really fine grit sandpaper to even out the texture of the wood. I use an iron and a wet towell to steam out dents and raise the grain.

I have not stripped or refinished the stock, just cleaned, so it has a finish already.

Some areas, mainly the dry ones were a little rough, I used a finishing pad on those areas and it helped the oil stay in those areas.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Wood being a natural organic substance is not going to dry/absorb evenly.

I haven't done this in decades, but there is such a thing as putting too much oil on a stock - witness what some old mil-surp stocks look like.

The last time I oiled a refinished stock I let it dry and then I put wax on top of the oil finish to protect the wood.

What do you mean as to the look with too much oil on? Maybe that's where I'm at with this?
It's a really flat and dry *looking* area, very matte in finish.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Linseed oil? Or Boiled linseed oil [BLO]?

Linseed oil. (Raw)

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

I like to finish a stock with black or brown shoe polish, depending on how dark I want the stocks wood grains to look.

Stock.us already finished, this is just a kind of top up to the finish, so to speak.

 

[The Heretic]

What do you mean as to the look with too much oil on? Maybe that's where I'm at with this?
It's a really flat and dry *looking* area, very matte in finish.

Many mil-surplus rifles of WWII era and earlier have very dark stocks due to overuse of oil and/or cleaning agents during use, and some have been stored in grease/etc.

 

[Certaindeaf]

Linseed oil. (Raw)

You wanna use the boiled. they sell it everywhere



some guys use some fancier stuff that dries even faster but I'd not bother.

 

[Rick4070]

^ What he said.
Use the "boiled" Linseed oil, it has driers in it.
You can also put some in a bottle, and add some Turpentine to it, probably 2 parts oil to 1 part Turpentine.
The Turpentine will help the oil dry quicker.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Many mil-surplus rifles of WWII era and earlier have very dark stocks due to overuse of oil and/or cleaning agents during use, and some have been stored in grease/etc.

Oh, I thought you were describing matte or dry looking finishes.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

You wanna use the boiled. they sell it everywhere

View attachment 360580

some guys use some fancier stuff that dries even faster but I'd not bother.

Why?

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

^ What he said.
Use the "boiled" Linseed oil, it has driers in it.
You can also put some in a bottle, and add some Turpentine to it, probably 2 parts oil to 1 part Turpentine.
The Turpentine will help the oil dry quicker.

Why?

I have a dry patch issue where it looks like it's in need of oil, not a drying issue.

 

[Certaindeaf]

Why?

Indeed. The forest is thick in you. Parts of your stock are too wet. anyway

 

[Misteramax]

Op, it's important to air dry a stock in a controlled environment. Low humidity. Then once any moisture is gone, you can use low heat to sweat oils out, then sand, then see if anymore oils need to come out, sand anymore as needed. Blow off dust. Wear gloves to not add your oils.

As others have said, get a blended linseed oil. Fallow the instructions. It's all really easy but to do a good job it can be a slow process. I enjoy the grain and color patterns that show up that I had no idea could be so beautiful on a stock like an old military one.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Indeed. The forest is thick in you. Parts of your stock are too wet. anyway

Well that's what I'm asking, it's not the oil looking parts I have the problem with, they are "drying off" nicely and have the expected visual finish of an oiled stock.

It's the other patches that dry off far more quickly and have the appearance of very dry wood with a very matte finish, no shine, does not look oiled

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Op, it's important to air dry a stock in a controlled environment. Low humidity.

Yes, sitting near, not in direct "sight" or effects of heating vent.

Then once any moisture is gone, you can use low heat to sweat oils out, then sand, then see if anymore oils need to come out, sand anymore as needed.

So you're suggesting this for the areas that seem to dry more quickly and look flat and matte in finish?
I'm not sure if I need to sand, the areas are essentially smooth.

Blow off dust. Wear gloves to not add your oils.

Hmm, I have been applying oil with my clean but bare fingers.