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I'm not sure about the finish on the 700, but I refinished a Marlin Model 60 last year (1983 model). I have 2 of them, one is mine, the one I refinished was my brother's - he didn't want it any longer and it was a bit beat up (scratches and some minor gouges) after having been tossed from closet to closet over the years. I did some research on refinishing on YT and went to work. I used a product called Citristrip that you can get at Home Depot, Lowe's, Fred's, etc. It is non-toxic and can be used indoors. It worked really well stripping off that 30-year-old finish. Eventually I got it nice and clean. Then I just sanded the wood and applied a light colored stain - some folks really like tru oil, tung oil or linseed oil as a finish. I finished mine off with a low gloss polyurethane.
The project wasn't too difficult - if you can get that original finish off, that's probably the worst part. From there it's pretty easy. I'd recommend considering giving it a go yourself. If you don't like the final finish, you can always strip it again and start over. Here are my 2 Marlin 60's side by side - the one on top is the original finish (mine), the one on the bottom is my brothers - the refinished model. I think it turned out pretty nice.
View attachment 98514
I have a video of the process of refinishing if you're interested, PM me and I'll send you the link.
Good luck!
Remingtons are extra had to refinish the stuff they put on them is some kind of cross linked
polymer infused with kryptonite.
It took 4 trys with an industrial paint stripper to get the stock on my 870 down to wood. After the finish is removed then a raise the dents with an Iron and steam and a light sanding with 220 and then 400 before you refinish.
Most gun smiths will do stock work.
wet sand with boiled linseed oil (or stain), don't wipe off the residue, Let it dry, then dry sand it, the dried dust from the wet sanding will fill the pores. Repeat as needed.
As far as stripping, I never use chemicals. Old school, I scrape it off using whatever clean edge I have handy, a bit of cleanly cut metal, the edge of a pair of cheap scissors, et cetera. It leaves the wood smoother than sanding actually, but of course a little sanding is needed for those difficult to reach spots. just draw the edge at a 90 degree angle lengthwise on the stock and with the grain to "shave" it off. I use this method regularly and with practice you can remove the old finish and have a stock ready for new finish in a very short time, about an hour or so.