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Hey, I would like to see opinions on the quality of Wolf Ammo. I personally won't buy the stuff! I bought 3 boxes of .45 ACP once and it failed to operate in any pistol I tried it in, including a factory tuned Colt. Just not enough powder charge. Is this a common occurrence with this brand?
 
I put about 100rds of 7.62x39 through my sks with no issues. All the rounds cycled just fine. I cannot comment on accuracy however, as it was a new rifle and I spent most of the time adjusting the sights, but I was getting about 3 inch groups at 100yds with sks irons. I haven't tried any of the pistol calibers though. I have shot a few boxes of TulAmmo .45ACP, which is similar in cost/quality to Wolf, and I didn't encounter any problems. Decent enough for plinking.
 
Here's my experience. My Dad bought 500 9mm and 500 .40s&w about 10 years ago. We shot about 250 of the 9mm's and 150 of the .40's before one of the .40's split and stuck in the pistol. Went home and did some research and havent shot another steel cased round since. All I can say is it shot minute of pop can, I dont remember any ftf. Just the one that split in the chamber... I still have all that was left if you know anybody that wants to buy some...
 
I personally dont like their pistol stuff. I have no logical reason for this but it is how I feel. I have shot some and it shot fine. It was stuff I got in trade or with something I bought in a "package", but will not choose to buy it.

Now in rifle I have shot thousands of rounds and have no problem with it as inexpensive plinking ammo. I know lots will say how it is hard on certain parts of different guns and such. Say it is an AR people talk about breaking extractors. How many extractors do you think you could break in 1000rds? How many extractors could you buy with the money saved/1000rds?

A couple years ago a guy was talking about how he would not shoot steel in his M1A as it would "wear it out". At the time brass cased ammo was bout 2x the cost of steel. I am going on the low side here but say he "wore" his gun out in 10k round (10 cases of ammo). If he bought 10k of brass he would have a gun with wear and shot 10k and have $0 left over. Now if he had bought 10k of steel ammo he would have a gun with wear, shot 10k of ammo, have enough money left over for a whole new rifle AND 2 more cases of ammo.......
 
bought a 500 round case and used it in my vector uzi. worked ok when shooting slowly, but when shooting rapidly i got alot of ftfs. was the same in my masterpiece arms mpa 30. ended up buying Tactical ammuntions reloads and they worked awhole lot better.
 
I am a fan of Wolf because it lets me shoot a lot more often than I could with even the cheapest brass cased stuff. Since Wolf went to polymer coated cases - I have not experienced one fail to extract or feed with their ammo - and I can't even think of any fails to fire. I run Wolf through my AR and my pistols - no problemo. Since Wolf has been rather scarce lately - I've been feeding both guns Tul ammo - which is essentially Wolf made at a different plant. It looks like Wolf, shoots like Wolf, and has been just as reliable as Wolf. The only Russian ammo I question is MFS - the powder charges in those do seem a tad light, but they have also thus far never failed to cycle my AR.

Would I rather shoot brass? You bet. But the days of truely cheap brass ammo are gone. $24 for a 100 round box of Winchester 9mm 115 grain makes me wince. I paid $10 for the same when I got into guns.

Yes - I could theoretically save some cash by reloading - but that means a substantial financial outlay for the reloading press, dies, and assorted equipment, so I wouldn't see any great savings for some time.
 
Shot tons of it through AKs and SKSs but never bought any of the pistol rounds... I did have 3 or 4 cases split leaving the case neck in the chamber over the years but had the same happen with brass in ARs a couple of times. A good reason to bring a broken shell extractor along when you go shooting.
 
bought a 500 round case and used it in my vector uzi. worked ok when shooting slowly, but when shooting rapidly i got alot of ftfs. was the same in my masterpiece arms mpa 30. ended up buying Tactical ammuntions reloads and they worked awhole lot better.

My Vector Uzi won't cycle it.

My Galil and SIG 556 digest the Wolf .223 okay. I'll only shoot brass-cased ammo out of my ARs, though. I find that when i've shot Wolf through them, they tend to get a lot dirtier.
 
Two things...

Wolf ammo works in the right applications, 7.62x39 begs for steel cases... there is no reason not to shoot it in those guns, since it's what they were designed for. However many of the more modern rimless rifle calibers (.223 and .308) tend to perform badly with it, mostly due to the lack of draft on the casings (most of these the body is nearly straight, not so with AK cartridges). I have shot some of their pistol ammo, works fine in my 9mm pistols, doesn't work so good in .45 and .40, again, lack of draft on the cartridge.

Second, wolf doesn't actually make a single round of ammunition, most of it is made by contractors such as tulammo, PRVI (good stuff btw), and others. If you go to the wolf corporate warehouse down in orange county california, there is no production equipment there. So it makes a lot of sense to talk specifically about who made the ammo. The wolf Gold Box stuff used to be pretty common, and all of it was made by PRVI, however PRVI now has their own importation infrastructure, so is now selling it direct. Personally, I love PRVI brass, it has a better anneal and hardness curve even than lake city brass. I really can't say enough good things about it as a reloader.

Also, if you have a gun with a chrome chamber/barrel, you are probably not going to shoot it out in your lifetime with steel cased ammo, but at the same time, if you have a cartridge that doesn't have enough taper, it won't function as well with steel as it does with brass.
 
I've ran wolf in my sks and AK....no issues accept a few light primer strikes. I am now running brown bear and tullammo 9mm in my Glocks. Some ftf and fte but that's fine because I get to do malfunction drills and practice. I used to run wolf and silver bear in my AR and it ran good.
 
I have run Wolf in my Mini-14 for many years and it works just fine. One gunsmith advised to add a drop of oil once in a while to the extractor/ejector to prevent long term undue wear when using steel cases. I try to do that when I think about it and carry CLP with me to the range.

Hey when you can buy ammo at Wolf prices in this economy its almost a gift that keeps on giving.
 
I seem to remember that some AR15s have had extractor issues after shooting a bunch of steel case ammo. The AR was designed for brass casings and there have been some breakages. Were me I would have a shooter bolt for the range and a spare that never sees steel, for the real thing. Having said that I've never shot steel cases in any of our AR15s
 
My experience with Wolf ammo is limited to 7.62X39 and 9X18 Makarov. Never had any issues with this brand of ammo. Have some .223 to test in the 182 series Mini-14 and will report on this later. The 7.62 ran well in the SKS and Min-30.
 

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