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I've always wanted an older Model 70. I even had a late 50's Featherweight that was really nice, but too nice to use. I've used Rugers for a long time because they are strong rifles with features similar to the Mod 70.
I'd say this rifle popped up, but I've known about it for a long time. A standard Model 70 built in 1952 chambered in 30-06. The price had come down just as I was considering getting another '06, also moving away from stainless/synthetic. It's rough, but not terrible. It's one just f-ed up enough I can change a few things and not feel guilty. The basic rifled action seems to be in fine shape. The bluing is nearly gone on the floorplate and trigger guard. The barrel and action are 80%ish. The stock has many chips and scrapes, hogged out swivel stud holes, the buttpad is a disintegrating brick and the butt is about an inch short. When it came to me it hadn't been shot in probably 25+ years. The magazine body was installed upside down and the trigger guard wasn't seated. I put it all back together correctly and checked function. The bore looked ok so I ran a few patches thru it and headed out to shoot.
The recoil "pad" hurt. A folded up towel made up for short stock and the lack of absorption of the so called pad.
The 24" barrel boosted velocities 100fps faster than the 22" tube of my Ruger. I was really tickled to see the SD numbers on my favorite reload were in the low teens out of this rifle.
70 right.jpg 70 left.jpg
After I got it home I tore it down again and am giving it a thorough cleaning. The bore has been soaking and is still full of copper, but it's looking great. The scope ring and mount screws were all loose. I loktite-ed the threads and changed the scope to an older VX-II.
70 with 3-9.jpg
Next up is a Boyd's stock. I'll be looking into the proper way to bed this 4 screwed action. :eek:
I'd be interested in hearing from others that have experience bedding and action screw "tuning".

My intention is to make this my primary hunting rifle.
 
Last Edited:
Good rifles my brother hunted deer for years with a 270 version. Before the season started it would get one or two rounds to verify it was still zeroed and one round per deer. He still has it but it's been retired for something lighter for the brush.
 
Nice score!
Boyds does offer their classic line up, and while not 100% accurate in lines and such, not a bad option at all, and they do look very nice! They do a very good job with the fit and finish on them and you should have no real issues getting it bedded properly! I like to use JB-Weld to get it nice and tight in the stock, and I have had most excellent results this way! the real trick is in the prep, make sure to use lots and lots of Wax to fully and completely coat all the metal, apply the JB and tighten it all down in the stock and let it sit for at least two days! Carefully dissemble it and clean up any overages and it should be good to go! :s0155:
 
If you want a decent stock in the same spirit as your current stock:

 
I've been shooting pre-64 M70s for about 20 years now. I've never bothered with torque specs because you can't really declare a spec on a rifle that was individually hand fit. I tighten the front action screw firmly, the rear screw almost as firm, and the middle screw finger tight. The front barrel nut screw can go in a drawer, or tightened a finger tight and no more.

Talley Steel bases and low rings give just enough clearance for the bolt handle and scope. I prefer Leupold dual dovetails with low rings. Depending on the size of the rear lens, this may be too low to clear the bolt handle.
 
If you want a decent stock in the same spirit as your current stock:

Thanks, that's cool, but no. That stock would put this rifle right back in the safe! I'd not want to bang that one up.

Plus, I have a plan.:D
 
Nice score!
Boyds does offer their classic line up, and while not 100% accurate in lines and such, not a bad option at all, and they do look very nice!

For some reason their Classic uses the forend with the relief for fingers and thumb and that's not classic.
The Platinum series has the "proper" lines I'm looking for.
 
A call to Boyd's this morning didn't turn out like I'd planned.

They don't make a stock for a Pre 64 unless it's a Pre War. Well, that sucks!

I may be left with very few options besides buying something like @No_Regerts suggested.
 
I've always wanted an older Model 70. I even had a late 50's Featherweight that was really nice, but too nice to use. I've used Rugers for a long time because they are strong rifles with features similar to the Mod 70.
I'd say this rifle popped up, but I've known about it for a long time. A standard Model 70 built in 1952 chambered in 30-06. The price had come down just as I was considering getting another '06, also moving away from stainless/synthetic. It's rough, but not terrible. It's one just f-ed up enough I can change a few things and not feel guilty. The basic rifled action seems to be in fine shape. The bluing is nearly gone on the floorplate and trigger guard. The barrel and action are 80%ish. The stock has many chips and scrapes, hogged out swivel stud holes, the buttpad is a disintegrating brick and the butt is about an inch short. When it came to me it hadn't been shot in probably 25+ years. The magazine body was installed upside down and the trigger guard wasn't seated. I put it all back together correctly and checked function. The bore looked ok so I ran a few patches thru it and headed out to shoot.
The recoil "pad" hurt. A folded up towel made up for short stock and the lack of absorption of the so called pad.
The 24" barrel boosted velocities 100fps faster than the 22" tube of my Ruger. I was really tickled to see the SD numbers on my favorite reload were in the low teens out of this rifle.
View attachment 662847View attachment 662848
After I got it home I tore it down again and am giving it a thorough cleaning. The bore has been soaking and is still full of copper, but it's looking great. The scope ring and mount screws were all loose. I loktite-ed the threads and changed the scope to an older VX-II.
View attachment 662849
Next up is a Boyd's stock. I'll be looking into the proper way to bed this 4 screwed action. :eek:
I'd be interested in hearing from others that have experience bedding and action screw "tuning".

My intention is to make this my primary hunting rifle.
Trying to remember who I traded your feather weight to, it was sweet rifle. To nice for hunting...
 
Thats not to bad. For god sake I Elk hunted with my Tikka CTR this year. I do have to admit I probably won't do that again. :confused:

Did that too. Dragged my Remington Sendero around the woods for a Central Oregon Mule deer hunt. All 26 inch heavy barrel of it. What was I thinking? It is great over a bipod for calling coyotes... but stomping up a mountain...? Not so much....
 
About a week later and I've been chasing crap on the internet looking for a good aftermarket wood stock and can't find anything like I envisioned. I ended up buying one off of the link No_Regerts posted.:rolleyes:
I'll post a pic or two once it shows up.
 
I've still got 15 good old Model 70s. Dad and I had more through the years. Including a lot of the slick barreled no sight versions. Dad had a 358 FW from old Scrapiron still with grease. Dad shot it :(
All of mine now are good shooters to very good shooters. (Except for the 375. Its not original, so a real shooter. But I don't need the kick). That 358 FW could kick too. Dad had one hunter 270 so well worn he painted the shiney barrel. A real shooter though. It would shoot 3-5" groups at 500 yards.
 

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