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I am curious, I am in the market for one of these. I would like the wwII trench gun setup but they are not affordable to me.

I came across a 28"? or 30" barreled one that I could possibly mod to my liking.
However, I was wondering, how do you determine what one of those is worth? What should I look out for and point out if I were in price negotiation?
 
Gun values and prices vary wildly in different places..
Where I live what a model 12 is valued or price at may be different than where you live.
What a gun is valued at ....What it is priced at and what it actually sells for can also be three different prices.

With that said...
Most decent Model 12's start around $500 where I live depending on shape , features and choke.
Generally the better the shape and the more open choke the higher the price.
A full choke gun being less desirable with the need for steel shot in many areas....

I would not do the trench gun mock up with most of the Model 12's that I have seen lately.....they are in too nice of shape.
Speaking for myself , I would only do this with a model 12 that was beat or had a bad bore near the area of the barrel that would be shortened.
Andy
 
I picked up a Winchester '97 take down that had a dent near the muzzle, so I cut it down and bought a heat shield.
The hardest part was filing the three screw slots that clamp the heat shield to the barrel.
Original model '97 trench gun barrels are marked "Cylinder" and are thicker walled, so when you use the correct round file to make the half round slot, the screw threads should tap the barrel as they cross over to the threaded side of the clamp.
I passed up buying a heat shield from Numrich because they're made out of thinner materials then the company listed below.


win pump 12 004.JPG
 
Maybe get in on this one?

 
Thank you for the input. The one I am looking at was about $450. Shape... well... it looked pretty rough to be honest, If its still there, I'll inspect more, and maybe make an offer. I don't think it had a choke. I would only get it, if its a good deal.

I'm asking mainly because I don't want to ruin a "super collectible" but it appears that they are fairly common guns from what I read. And it definitely wasn't a serial "1" lol
 
During WW2, the US Army bought some (and other brands and models) for aerial gunnery training. They are marked "US" with flaming bomb and never had the trench gun configuration. Long barrels.
 
Got an Early Christmas present :). The barrel was longer (30" and now is 20 1/2) and I am working on the trenchgun project now. Its a 1951 in very good condition. It only had 1 flaw on the mag tube that looked like someone cut a tiny slot to get a screwdriver in to pull a dent out or something. Nothing that I cant fix.

image-20191111_104829.jpg
 
The old varnish on the wood was pretty flakey so I decided to redo it. I just stripped it, lightly sanded with 600grit and then used walnut dye and some ForbesTung Oil.

IMG_20191117_182252.jpg IMG_20191117_182233.jpg IMG_20191117_163535.jpg
 
So, I'm running into an odd "problem" here. I had measured my barrel by putting a stick in it and marking it. End of muzzle to breechface was exactly 30". I then Cut it so it is 20 1/2". Now I have gotten my heatshield with bayonet lug and the barrel is 1/2" too short!? What in the world happened there??? Do I leave it like that or do I weld 1/2" piece of barrel back on? This is mainly a cosmetic issue. Any compensators or anything that could fit in there and be clamped?

IMG-20191119-WA0000.jpeg
 
Actually since this is a takedown model, maybe the mag tube is longer? I see in other pictures that the heatshield ends flush with the back of the foreend. Mind is 1/2" more forward.

EDIT: I see the issue. 5 shots vs 6 capacity. I think I could modify the Tube to make it fit perfect and still have 6 shots while retaining the takedown option...
 
Last Edited:
Got it figured out! Still holds 6!

IMG-20191119-WA0009.jpeg IMG-20191119-WA0011.jpeg
Also what you cant see is, I modified the plug to have that "pin" that goes into the bayonet lug. Couldn't find that magazine tube plug anywhere,so had to make one...
 
Last Edited:
model 12s in good condition are getting tougher to find. Generally they got used, a bunch. Finding one that headspaces and is timed correctly should be first priority. By timed I mean it will not fire out of battery, a crucial safety issue, if the bolt is not completely locked in place it could damage you, the gun, or more likely both.

next is cosmetics, these were affordable field guns and some suffered from abuse and neglect. I have found that some hand work with abrasive papers to remove shallow pits and corrosion, followed by abrasive blasting and a zinc phosphate coating ( Parkerizing) makes for a nice military looking gun.

If you really have to have a heat shield, install it before cutting the barrel, and have it parkerized along with the rest of the gun.

Furniture is widely available and shouldnt be a problem, just be sure the stock mates nicely with no gaps at the receiver.


Texas armament is an excellent place to send it out for parkerizing
 
The screws that came with this were apperantly made out of butter. Replaced them with some 10-32 Allen Head. Not periodic correct but more durable. Next question is, where do I find a replica of the M1917... Or would an M1 or 1905 bayonett fit too?

IMG_20191120_094427.jpg
 
Here's a disclaimer from a company that makes reproduction heat shields.



IMPORTANT: This bayonet attachment will fit only the Model 12 commercial barrel. If you have a Model 12 original trench gun you need to order a Model 97 bayonet attachment. The original Model 12 trench gun barrel is the same diameter as the Model 97. The commercial barrel is smaller in diameter and that is why we came out with this model. Be sure that your gun is a standard model 12 commercial chambered for 2 3/4 inc shells. Some special models ( Heavy Duck) are chambered for 3 inch shells and have a slightly larger barrel diameter. Our attachment will not fit these models. Also if your barrel is marked: model 1912 the attachment will not fit (too tight). The attachment will fit only standard commercial model 12 barrels marked: model 12
 
I had to file a tiny bit and the screws left a thread imprint. I'm not too worried, I'll come up with something to make it tight. Maybe putting a shim around the top part of the barrel or.... filing the slot wider so it clamps tighter.

I did not buy the $200 version, I think thats outrageously expensive!
 

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