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What do you need it for?
Many years ago my wife and young son gave me my first AR for Fathers Day. My elderly Father in-law who owned hunting rifles, looked at it and sarcastically asked, "what in the hell do you need that for?".
I replied with, I will tell the terrorist's to "Jihad This" when they come down the street and use it to protect your daughter and grandson. The old guy changed his tone, smiled and nodded in approval.
 
Sorta. Keep in mind .223 is not legal for big game hunting in WA.

If you intend to hunt with it, a second upper in a proper chambering will be necessary.
Agree - One 5.56 upper with BUIS and defense style optic and a 22LR conversion kit, a second one in say, 6.5 something or even 300 BO with appropriate optics for hunting. I'd suggest a way to easily differentiate mags to prevent confusion.
 
I tend to stay away from such threads, like the plague…but since I was asked my opinion. I'll give it a go.

Before I offend or reoffend anyone with my view on things…May I send everyone much blessings of the Christmas Season and for the coming new year.

First, my experience with the AR is over 30 years in the LE world, not Military. So, my actual combat use of the platform is on the street and in the marijuana plantations of Eastern Washington.

The AR-15 is an amazing platform. Extremely versatile with parts that make it even more ergonomic as well as caliber changes. The platform and ammunition are light weight, good terminal ballistic performance, and again great ease of platform manipulation which leads to efficiency.

If I could only have three guns, it would be a semi-auto pistol, a shotgun, and an AR-15.

As to what to obtain? Here comes the offending part…stay away from anything that states "Starter" or "Budget" firearm…unless you're the average shooter that goes out 3-5 times a year, throws a few rounds down range and back in the safe it goes. If that's the case, then anything goes. Read no further…

You want a manufacturer of the rifle or parts who gets the best parts, not junk parts where the buyer doesn't know or doesn't care. Too many manufacturers build rifles or offers parts that looks good or is described as the holy grail, throws some fancy finish on it and sells it for a higher amount. Other than Colt, which tends to be the gold standard of ARs, anything less than a cost in the upper hundreds is going to be somewhat suspect.

I built my rifles for a tick over a 1,000.00 and I'd put them up against any rifle costing twice the amount…and yes, even an AK.

I know, folks don't have money for a high-end AR. My advice to you, have patience…buy a part or two every month or so and get the best parts available to build the AR for your specific need or mission.

If you buy a starter or budget rifle then upgrade later, it's a waste of money. You're buying parts you don't need or want, then having to go buy more parts etc. UGH.

When asked…what's the difference between a $2,000 and a $400 dollar AR-15? Too much to type here. All one needs to do is tear down a 400.00 AR and gauge everything, and the AR angels of enlightenment will rain down upon your tender precious body and you'll gain a full understanding of what I'm trying to convey.

As a general rule, money can help dictate whether you are buying a gimmick or whether you are buying quality. Gimmick crap will be made to look like the upper end rifles and parts, but to keep the price down…corners are cut somewhere…and some instances, they fail at the wrong time. Just like 1911's, you can buy a Springfield or other make that looks like a Wilson or Heirloom Precision, but corners have been extremely cut to get the cost down.

I've had many a cheap 1911 on my bench fixing what the maker should have done. Another pet peeve…break in period. OH PLEEEEEEEEEEZZZZZZZ That phrase wouldn't exist if manufacturers did their job.

How do you avoid the gimmicks if you don't know, what you don't know? This can be tough, but there are two ways 1 – Take an AR Armorer course that, as part of the class points out subpar parts and manufacturing processes that hinder the longevity of the platform. 2 – Look at what the top tier instructors are using. NOW…some are getting paid to use and tout certain items, need to pick out that garbage…BUT really look at what they use and how it's used. Generally, you won't find gimmicky crap on their rifles.

I'm not hating on everything, but there's rarely a class on my range or on any range I teach that sometime during the course a rifle or more doesn't have a problem…some have imploded and have been taken out of service…don't be that person.

Just like anything you do in training…there has to be a WHY for every part you use. Is it a mechanical advantage meaning reliability, performance etc., ergonomic, or is it something that is mission specific…ask the WHY, and make sure you GET and honest answer that is backed up with proven experience.

Second…Training. You have to know what your skillset is. Just about every firearm owner can load, unload, keep the muzzle in a safe direction, and actuate the trigger…past that, efficiency with the platform is lacking.

A lot of new firearms owners I've ran across now feel that just by the mere presence of a firearm in the house along with a box of ammo, all is well and comfortable sleep can now be had.

You can't look at others training and apply that to your own skillset if you don't what you're trying to accomplish. Take an honest view of yourself and your skillset and go forward from there.

Also, there should be no difference in shooting, practice, training, or plinking. Anytime you pick up a firearm, it is another repetition to train the brain…you choose how you want to train it. If you go out plinking, you don't actuate the trigger any different…you shouldn't be. You don't hold the firearm any different…again, you shouldn't be.

So, the short answer to the original OP, if you don't know why you should get an AR, don't get one…until you know why you want or need one, and what it will be used for. Then before the purchase figure out how it should be configured to best suit your needs…but still keeping the gimmick crap off it. If you need help with any of the above…I'm always available for such things.
 
I have taken an AR training class from Steve @Cerberus Group. I have had my a few AR rifles for a good 6 years or but have never taken a training class for the AR. I know how to field strip it and where the lube points are on AR basic maintenance like the gas rings, extractor, etc. Never did any malfunction drills practice at all either before taking the AR class. First thing I did when I got home from the AR training class I ordered some dummy rounds and have been practicing malfunction drills ever since besides going to the gun range.
 
Your original question is worded wrong. I think you meant to say "why shouldn't I buy an AR15?" With that said it sounds like you don't have any other firearm so my recommendation is that you buy a pistol in 9mm and take a safety class along with getting a CCW to carry daily. Once you feel comfortable with the handgun and funds allow buy an AR-15. There really is so much you can do with the platform. So the type of AR really depends on what you want it for.
 
I've never bonded with the AR platform, so I'd say no. If you're new to the game, they're very simple and can be quite affordable though. If you've been shooting a while, I would recommend dipping your toes into the bullpup world. They come with their own unique challenges but aren't neutered like a pistol AR.

If you go AR I recommend LWRC, FN, BCM, LMT, and Aero. I don't build since I like factory warranties and resale value. If you want to try a bullpup I recommend an AUG, X95, or perhaps the VHS-2 (Hellion). Avoid Kel-Tec.

Edit: if you're feeling adventurous I also recommend the 5.56 Galil Ace. Excellent firearms. Other platforms that I wish would take off and get more aftermarket support are the Beretta ARX-100 and CZ Bren. They're excellent but too "weird" for Americans it seems.
 
The AR 15 is a competition target rifle that totally dominates Highpower "Service Rifle" class.
It is capable of perfect scores 'across the course' out to 600 yards.
Slow fire prone at the 600 yard line.
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