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I'm trying to get this pin out and it's not moving. I must have tapped it 200 times with a small hammer. Nothing. Then a bigger hammer. Then a three pound hammer. Did I mushroom the pin and am going to have to either take it to a shop and have somebody else do it?
From speaking with customers, it seems BCM FSB taper pins are harder to remove than some others. When we do it here, we can knock the pins free in under 60 seconds.
Here are some basic pointers on the way we remove them.
1) It takes Two. You will need a buddy to hold the upper group stable as you pound out the pins. You will not be able to get a good concentrated force on the pins if the upper is wobbling around (even a little bit).
2) Action Jackson. You will need a couple of action blocks (see Brownells for a good selection). These will be great platforms to stabilize the barrel. Also get the Brownells FSB block. You may have to mod the shape of the FSB block if using a free float.
3) Installed from starboard side. Milspec FSB are drill and the reamed for taper pins. The reamer runs from the right to the left (pointing the muzzle at the bad guy). So BCM pins need to be removed from left to right. Cannot be done the opposite way.
4) Secure that carbine. Using action blocks and the buddy system secure the upper group so the left side is facing up.
5) Get a fat one. We do not use those small radius head punches to break the pins free. We use a much fatter punch (5/16"). It's a meaty sucker. Lots to hang on to, and enables you to put some force on the hammer. Using a 5/16" punch and a 12oz hammer, give her a smack. Anywhere between 1 and 6 smacks, and the pin moves. All you want to do is to get it to move to about flush.
6) Grab a skinny one. Now get the tiny little 1/8" punch to push the pins out of the FSB. They are already broken free, this just drives the fully out. Tap, tap, tap.
7) Celebrate. You are done. Do the banana dance.
Hope this info helps...
Thanks!
Paul
Also, if you didn't already know, that FSB and barrel are a "unique set".
Save the FSB in case you ever want to go back.
Marvels Mystery Penetration Oil. If you have room, place the entire barrel, (or entire top end) into your own or neighbors, (?) deep freezer. Be sure to wrap the thing up first. The oil stinks bad.
You do not want to stink up the interior of the deep freeze. Freeze the build.
Then be sure to support the front site assembly and barrel exactly. Use a dimpled end appropriately sized pin punch. Center the punch. Use vise grips to hold it sosss your fingers are away and safe.
Use whatever you have to closely support either the barrel or the top end.
Use a 3 pound single jack. Smack it really hard. Hit the small end. It sounds like the build may not have had OEM spec M16 taper pins, OR the barrel did not receive OEM correct taper grooves.
If that does not work then consider using dry ice if you can find any.
When I first started building and working on guns I did dainty and conservative taps and pushes. After working on a hundred or so AR's I now start with a two pound brass hammer and strike with some authority. My experience is those need a sharp smack, one harder than you feel like you should be swinging at a firearm.
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