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Is the shearing bolts problem found often with plastic plates or more bolts coming loose? If shearing bolts is not common to other brands perhaps s&w is using bolts not capable of standing up to 10mm recoil?
 
I would look to the screws before the plastic.
I cannot count the number of junk mounting screws that i have replaced that have come with gun accoutrements.
There's an ACE hardware on the NE corner of 185th and Canyon in Beaverton that has one of the best fastener sections (~5 aisles). I have purchased from their "gun screw" drawer at least a dozen times.
Personally, I would use stainless screws before carbon steel in this situation because of the toughness of stainless. It's much harder to shear. Those you have to order from places like McMaster-Carr.
 
Well I am definitely watching this thread. I'm running a Gen 1 M&P Core w/metal mounting plate and a Trijicon 06 red dot. I'm very interested in what S&W has to say with respect to the cause of this and what the solution is?

It seems odd to me that a plastic mounting plate could be the culprit but what they heck do I know. Some plastic things don't bother me too much and I generally think that a plastic mounting plate is one less thing to rust as long as it is similarly durable. But if it causes screws to sheer, then...well...screw that!

Please keep us informed as to what you find out. :)
 
I contacted S&W.
They are sending me a prepaid shipping lable to have a look at the gun. They requested that I return the whole firearm. Then after inspection, they said it would be shipped back to me, signature required.
Is this legal?
Do I need to ship through an FFL in this state (Oregon)?
Or can I cut out the FFL hassle by direct shipping?
 
Its legal, but you have to use their shipping label.

And they can ship directly to your door but a signature is required.
Note, if you might not be home you can have the courier deliver to one of their facilities for you to pick up.
Note2, when you take it in to ship it your required to declare its a firearm.

No ffl needed for warranty work.
 
Its legal, but you have to use their shipping label.

And they can ship directly to your door but a signature is required.
Note, if you might not be home you can have the courier deliver to one of their facilities for you to pick up.
Note2, when you take it in to ship it your required to declare its a firearm.

No ffl needed for warranty work.
Thank you very much for that useful info! :) :) :)
 
Bad screws or improper torque. I'd tap out old ones and try new. Or take to gunsmith to have them deal with it. Sheared off screws can be a pain sometime.
 
Bad screws or improper torque. I'd tap out old ones and try new. Or take to gunsmith to have them deal with it. Sheared off screws can be a pain sometime.
Have you ever tried to drill a tiny high carbon unevenly broken stud?
I have, many times. Not so easy.
I don't have a Bridgeport and proper tooling.

And I'm not made of money. The gunsmith route is an obvious option.
 
I'm doubtful plastic is the root cause of failure, here. More likely screws that can't handle the energy of the 10mm. I have several M&P pistols with optics sandwiching a plastic plate. It's like a gasket, never had an issue yet and don't forsee one but mine aren't in 10mm
 
Well best of luck to ya. I'd start with a torque screwdriver for proper tools list. Good chance that was the problem to begin with.
 
Have you ever tried to drill a tiny high carbon unevenly broken stud?
I have, many times. Not so easy.
I don't have a Bridgeport and proper tooling.

And I'm not made of money. The gunsmith route is an obvious option.
Torque screw drivers dont cost a whole lot, worth the investment.
 
I'm doubtful plastic is the root cause of failure, here. More likely screws that can't handle the energy of the 10mm. I have several M&P pistols with optics sandwiching a plastic plate. It's like a gasket, never had an issue yet and don't forsee one but mine aren't in 10mm
Then Smith & Wesson should know that the plastic plates are a problem.

IMHO - If it's the power of a 10mm that is causing the problem, Consumers should be notified of this, and S&W should drill out bigger optic mounting holes for bigger mounting screws.
 
Well best of luck to ya. I'd start with a torque screwdriver for proper tools list. Good chance that was the problem to begin with.
Really?

Nice try. :)

Seriously though, I appreciate your input.

thumbnail_20241112_124241.jpg thumbnail_20241112_124355.jpg
 
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Then Smith & Wesson should know that the plastic plates are a problem.

IMHO - If it's the power of a 10mm that is causing the problem, Consumers should be notified of this, and S&W should drill out bigger optic mounting holes for bigger mounting screws.
I don't disagree.


Maybe I'll mount an optic to my 10mm m&p and see what's what. Got me a little curious
 
This is the internet. Don't believe everything you read. Let S&W figure it out and give it another try.
 
Ive never heard anything bad about S&W quality, i doubt its the screws. I think the plastic plate "rocking" under recoil is a valid theory ( which would be on S&W shoulders...)

Screws are mass produced, small chance is could be the metalurgy but I doubt it.

I just hope for your sake they dont need to replace the whole slide over this...

For my custom 10mm glock longslide, one screw has to be shorter and I didnt like how short, i orderd the next fractional size from mcmaster carr. It was a harder to find in-between size that added another thread without interfering... i might have gave it a slight file on the tip... No plastic spacer, several hundred rounds no and no issues.
 

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