Who loads 6.5 X 55 Swede?

[Mikej]

First off I'm not looking to copy loads of the internet. Even though I just KNOW all you guys are master loaders! No, whatever info I glean will be backed up by at least two books or appropriate website recipes. I just want to get at least a couple/three powders on hand for when I do load for this rifle. If you could tell me what you like or don't like about powders you've used, still use or tried. I'm shooting PPU factory 139gr ammo and that will be my brass to load.

I've already picked up some Federal large 210 rifle primers and a # of H4895. I have a box of Hornady Interlock 129gr bullets. And a couple boxes of older Speer 1441 Spitzer SPs, 140gr. Something I noticed after looking close at the Speer soft points is that one box says .264" and the other one says .263". I thought that was kind of weird? I measured them. They are indeed .263 and .264.

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[DizzyJ]

Interesting. Have not heard of that caliber.

Will be tagging along to learn.

 

[Mikej]

Interesting. Have not heard of that caliber.

Will be tagging along to learn.

Swedish Mauser - Wikipedia

Fascinating rifle. I was looking for something older, and thinking Mosin Nagant. Ended up with a Swedish Mauser off Gun Broker. The attraction came from the fact Sweden never really sent the guns all over the world. And there are still very nice specimens around. They were know for the quality of their craftsmanship, steel and the accuracy of the 6.5 round.

Here's the thread I had going, and the rifle I got.

Swedish Mauser ?........

 

[Eveskcige28]

Also tagging along as I really want a swiss rifle and would then start loading for it!

 

[North Plains]

I had a 1903 Springfield rebarreled to 6.5x55. I loaded Nosler blastic tips for a antelope hunt this year. I don't remember what powder I used. I'll have to look it up.

 

[North Plains]

I used Hornady brass, 100gr Nosler ballistic tips,cci primers,imr 4350. This load shot good in the Springfield.

 

[thorborg]

I took a buck with that caliber for the first time this year downsizing from a lifetime of .270, initially to 243 (a nice round in it's own right) but have always been interested in the 6.5 X 55 so went with a Tikka without remorse.
Anyway, Like Hopps #9, I tend to stick with what I have, What works, or what I am comfortable with.
IMR 4350 has been serving me well over the years on several other calibers (.243, 6.5X55 Roberts, .257 Roberts, .270) . And now, equally happy with its service on the 6.5 X 55 also.

IMR 4350* is a single base (Nitrocellulose only, no nitroglycerin) rod pellet ranking low to about 114 on the burn rate placing it in my mind, moderately slow.
I believe it is a progressive propellant but have never actually found the need to verified that aspect.
Nonetheless, it is stable temperature wise, clean handling when loading, and fairly clean burning.
Besides its chemical and performance attributes, perfect service** to me for over fifty years, It also simplifies life by the uncluttering effect of one powder for many duties.

If I had to give a negative, it would be that it can be a bit persnickety metering.
However, since I don't us a progressive press, don't shoot them from a thirty round mag, and real particular about consistency, I have no problem measuring the loads on my old balance scale one at a time.


* There are other 4350's from other manufactures like: Hodgdon H4350, Accurate Arms 4350, which I have not used and though are very close on the burn rate scale, I would not interchange recipes without workup experiments.
** I still use the same formula and get the same performance for my .270 I worked up many years ago telling me they kept their powder consistent over all those years even though I'm sure ingredients have changed.

 

[jordanka16]

Not sure how helpful it is, but I loaded some for a friend's rifle a while back. I used 4064 because I always have it on hand and we got pretty good results, around 2"-2.5" at 100 yds which for an old military rifle is not too shabby. If 4064 or Varget are listed as suitable they are usually what I try first, and I am rarely disappointed.

I should add, I also used PPU brass and it is my go to for most European calibers.

 

[Silver Hand]

Learn how to slug your barrel, by driving a lead plug down the bore and all the way out the other side. It is a bit hard to start but once it is in sliding through is easy. Measure the slug and round up say to .264 if your slug is .2635. The tighter bullet will be the most accurate.
Read up on it a bit.
Silver Hand

 

[tac]

Also tagging along as I really want a swiss rifle and would then start loading for it!

I reload for both.

 

[tac]

Not sure how helpful it is, but I loaded some for a friend's rifle a while back. I used 4064 because I always have it on hand and we got pretty good results, around 2"-2.5" at 100 yds which for an old military rifle is not too shabby. If 4064 or Varget are listed as suitable they are usually what I try first, and I am rarely disappointed.

I should add, I also used PPU brass and it is my go to for most European calibers.

First I'll deal with the Swedish Mauser. I, too, load with 4064 and 139gr bullets. My load is 36gr and my cases are Norma.

Here is the result most of the time - ten shots there -

 

[tac]

I also reload for 7.5x55 Swiss - that's a LOT more complex, as the shape of the GP11 bullet was far ahead of its time, and needs to be replicated with a premium bullet like Sierra Match King or even Berger's VLD shape. Both have the looooooong ogive needed to correctly chamber in the tight innards of a K31. The powder is Vihtavuori 43gr of N140, but I have loading data for ALL bullet weights between 155gr and 190gr. I have been shooting these two same rifles since 1989 - a K11 and K31. I use Lee dies, and FL resize every time. Reloading is kinda picky, and you'll need to pick my brain if you care to do so - reloading is NOT straighforward due to the shape of the original bullet and the chamber, and the strict need to ensure that correct OAL is maintained. The vast majority of modern bullets are just way too 'blunt'...

My average shoot looks like this - at 100m - that's 25 shots, BTW. the reason it's offset is bacause I'm shooting left-handed for a while and I guess my sight picture is different. The bullet here is the 168gr SMK - 174gr are made by PPU for their own version of the GP11 round, but ALL are .308". The paste-it hides my buddy John's shoot, not any screw-ups of my own, honest.

 

[tac]

Mike - do you have brass data disc on the Swedish Mauser? If so, it will tell you the bore diameter the last time it was measured. Please post it if you have it.

 

[tac]

Also tagging along as I really want a swiss rifle and would then start loading for it!

Please do not mix up Switzerland and Sweden - I guess it's an American thang, our forum on gunboards.com is chock-filled with people making the same mistake. I guess that over here in Europe we are more familiar with our local geography....

 

[Eveskcige28]

Please do not mix up Switzerland and Sweden - I guess it's an American thang, our forum on gunboards.com is chock-filled with people making the same mistake. I guess that over here in Europe we are more familiar with our local geography....

Oh wow thank you for pointing that out!

 

[Eveskcige28]

I also reload for 7.5x55 Swiss - that's a LOT more complex, as the shape of the GP11 bullet was far ahead of its time, and needs to be replicated with a premium bullet like Sierra Match King or even Berger's VLD shape. Both have the looooooong ogive needed to correctly chamber in the tight innards of a K31. The powder is Vihtavuori 43gr of N140, but I have loading data for ALL bullet weights between 155gr and 190gr. I have been shooting these two same rifles since 1989 - a K11 and K31. I use Lee dies, and FL resize every time. Reloading is kinda picky, and you'll need to pick my brain if you care to do so - reloading is NOT straighforward due to the shape of the original bullet and the chamber, and the strict need to ensure that correct OAL is maintained. The vast majority of modern bullets are just way too 'blunt'...

My average shoot looks like this - at 100m - that's 25 shots, BTW. the reason it's offset is bacause I'm shooting left-handed for a while and I guess my sight picture is different. The bullet here is the 168gr SMK - 174gr are made by PPU for their own version of the GP11 round, but ALL are .308". The paste-it hides my buddy John's shoot not any scrw-ups of my own, honest.

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And thank you for sharing your wealth if knowledge!

 

[tac]

Sir, the pleasure is all mine.

 

[tac]

Here is my 1898 Carl Gustaf, three-digit, 1938-Goteburg-arsenal refurb -





If you can find one of those spiffy little Wehrmann peep sights you are doing well. Mine cost me almost $200 here a couple of years syne. You can see what Mike means about the sheer quaity of this gun - just look at the shine on that action - totally unpolished and simply a reflection (hah!) of the high-chrome content steel.

 

[Mikej]

Mike - do you have brass data disc on the Swedish Mauser? If so, it will tell you the bore diameter the last time it was measured. Please post it if you have it.

It's a 1902 dated Carl Gustafs short rifle.



It has the Husqvarna T marked rear sight and shoots almost point of aim at 100 yds. Every other marking is Carl Gustafs. Strangely, or not, the yellow decal is on upside down. No...upside down to the shooter trying to read it while shooting.

 

[Mikej]

Here is my 1898 Carl Gustaf, three-digit, 1938-Goteburg-arsenal refurb -
View attachment 522794
View attachment 522795
View attachment 522796
View attachment 522797

If you can find one of those spiffy little Wehrmann peep sights you are doing well. Mine cost me almost $200 here a couple of years syne. You can see what Mike means about the sheer quaity of this gun - just look at the shine on that action - totally unpolished and simply a reflection (hah!) of the high-chrome content steel.

Oooof.....One of the arsenal drilled for an original Swede diopter sight is what I'd really like to find now. Those tiny sights are a real pain for the old(er) eyes. Even with glasses. There was one, for not too much on GB some time ago. I should have bid on it.