Which progressive reloader?

[BAMCIS]

this video shows the effort or lack thereof in the process... and there is virtually no flex in the machine at all...

I had to stop the second time to remove the small primer .45acp case..

[video=youtube_share;wIVGrsRot3E]http://youtu.be/wIVGrsRot3E[/video]

Man........That's just cheating!!!!

 

[Bxc53]

OK, one more update on the new LnL AP and I'll go back to making ammo....

I'm still doing 9mm-haven't tried other calibers yet. I plan to pick up a .40 shell plate next.

I ran a few hundred more and hit a couple snags. The indexing mechanism would lock up in between stations. I'm still going fairly slow so I was able to let off the pressure on the handle without breaking anything. After checking things out, I found the shell plate center bolt had backed out so the shell plate was loose. The instructions say to tighten the bolt only enough to keep it coming loose..OK, that's a bit vague so I probably under torqued it. A bit tighter this time, but it happened again about 200 rounds later. So, I pulled the shell plate and found the bolt threads were pretty wet with assembly lube. Degreased and added a drop of blue loctite. No loosening after that. So far.

The case feeder is still looking good, so I'll probably add one in a while- need to let the credit card recharge a bit.

I went to the range and tried out the first batch with no problems. That felt good.

Maybe someday I'll find a Dillon to test drive but for now I'm pretty happy with the LnL.

 

[PX4WA]

. The indexing mechanism would lock up in between stations. I'm still going fairly slow so I was able to let off the pressure on the handle without breaking anything. After checking things out, I found the shell plate center bolt had backed out so the shell plate was loose. The instructions say to tighten the bolt only enough to keep it coming loose.
I went to the range and tried out the first batch with no problems. That felt good.

I crank the bolt down on mine snug.. not monkey tight, just enough so it doesn't come off...

if you buy the red wrench Amazon.com: Hornady Deluxe Die Wrench: Sports & Outdoors the little thing that protrudes to the side mates into the shell plate for counter torque so you can torque that bolt without damaging the indexing. also make sure to lube the underside of the shell plate.

torquing the bolt without the wrench to counter the force passes the force to the indexing wheel/pawl and could break it or get it out of alignment...

make sure you performed the index alignment... see details on ultimate reloader or youtube... but if it is working well then you probably have it right from the factory (most of the time it is until you get it out of alignment by cranking down on the lock bolt or it is worn down)

 

[Bxc53]

I crank the bolt down on mine snug.. not monkey tight, just enough so it doesn't come off...

if you buy the red wrench Amazon.com: Hornady Deluxe Die Wrench: Sports & Outdoors the little thing that protrudes to the side mates into the shell plate for counter torque so you can torque that bolt without damaging the indexing. also make sure to lube the underside of the shell plate.

torquing the bolt without the wrench to counter the force passes the force to the indexing wheel/pawl and could break it or get it out of alignment...

make sure you performed the index alignment... see details on ultimate reloader or youtube... but if it is working well then you probably have it right from the factory (most of the time it is until you get it out of alignment by cranking down on the lock bolt or it is worn down)

Thanks, good points.

I work on aircraft for a living, so I like actual torque specs..hence the start low plan. I did not know about that feature on the Hornady wrench. I did avoid putting pressure on the pawls and found that with the press fully raised, the dies will hold the shell plate with the bolt accessible through the center hole. I ran a couple hundred more since my last post, so I may be ok now.
I did grease the plate detention balls with some moly grease I had. Not sure if there is a more preferred type.

I also did the index alignment check and it's been good (with the plate tight) so I'll run with it.

So far I've used Federal 100 SP primers with no problems. I see that I'll run through them pretty fast now and CCI primers are available locally. Any problems using those?

 

[PX4WA]

I did grease the plate detention balls with some moly grease I had. Not sure if there is a more preferred type.

I also did the index alignment check and it's been good (with the plate tight) so I'll run with it.

So far I've used Federal 100 SP primers with no problems. I see that I'll run through them pretty fast now and CCI primers are available locally. Any problems using those?

grease is grease... i just use whatever is handy...

as for the federal primers, they are good, but they are soft... make sure the primer depth is correct (well seated flush).

other than the risk of slam fire in some guns with no firing pin safety (1911 series 70) it should not be an issue...

I personally use cci, fiocchi and magtech and have never had any problems except for one which I think was due to a wet casing (I wet tumble and was in a hurry - lesson learned)

I personally would not use federal primers in an AR, but in a non-1911 pistol you're probably ok...

 

[Ben B.]

...I ran a few hundred more and hit a couple snags. The indexing mechanism would lock up in between stations. I'm still going fairly slow so I was able to let off the pressure on the handle without breaking anything. After checking things out, I found the shell plate center bolt had backed out so the shell plate was loose. ...

Hmm, I have not seen a loose shellplate be related to locking up. I have seen dirty primer area keep the primer seater stem from retreating fully, so that it hangs up the shellplate. It is typically from a granule of powder stuck under the primer stem. Putting pressure from underneath on the stem (wiggle, up/down) usually loosens it up, then clean it out with compressed air when the ram is down next cycle.

I do have to keep the primer seating area clean. Anytime I see powder grains on the shellplate, or something feels off seating a primer, is a good time to blow out the primer area.

No matter how fast you get at operating the press, STOP anytime something doesn't feel right and find the problem. Learn that now...or learn later while crying over broken parts.

Ask me how I learned that....

 

[Bxc53]

grease is grease... i just use whatever is handy...

as for the federal primers, they are good, but they are soft... make sure the primer depth is correct (well seated flush).

other than the risk of slam fire in some guns with no firing pin safety (1911 series 70) it should not be an issue...

I personally use cci, fiocchi and magtech and have never had any problems except for one which I think was due to a wet casing (I wet tumble and was in a hurry - lesson learned)

I personally would not use federal primers in an AR, but in a non-1911 pistol you're probably ok...

"Grease is grease". Another concept foreign to an aircraft guy . But I take your point, it's probably not critical here as long is it's not dry.

Thanks for the primer rundown. I've been (single stage) reloading for a couple decades, off and on, and have primer choices worked out-as long as I can get them.

I should have clarified that I was wondering if any types work better (Or not) as far as feeding in the LnL..

 

[PX4WA]

"Grease is grease". Another concept foreign to an aircraft guy . But I take your point, it's probably not critical here as long is it's not dry.

Thanks for the primer rundown. I've been (single stage) reloading for a couple decades, off and on, and have primer choices worked out-as long as I can get them.

I should have clarified that I was wondering if any types work better (Or not) as far as feeding in the LnL..

Sorry didn't mean that grease statement that way... I use different grease for critical applications like boats and bearings...

But for this press, any grease will work...

That said I like to grease the zirk fittings often as it slows down the press and reduces powder spillage by adding a little drag to the indexing

 

[usagi]

After checking things out, I found the shell plate center bolt had backed out so the shell plate was loose. The instructions say to tighten the bolt only enough to keep it coming loose..OK, that's a bit vague so I probably under torqued it.

get a lock washer, that will lock the plate solidly.

there's also a useful youtube video series, look for 'HORNADY LNL HINTS AND TRICKS' by bill morgan.

 

[PX4WA]

another video of the 1050 this time with 9mm... having the dies move up and down instead of the casings makes for a much better process

[video=youtube_share;uN4EkkSHVl4]http://youtu.be/uN4EkkSHVl4[/video]

 

[usagi]

for once i'd like to see a bullet feeder which doesn't tip bullets. doesnt anyone make a reliable one?

 

[PX4WA]

for once i'd like to see a bullet feeder which doesn't tip bullets. doesnt anyone make a reliable one?

If I flared it more it becomes more reliable...but overworks the brass...

I probably get less than 5 flips per hundred... if I go to fast it flips more, if I get to the rhythm they don't flip..

I was off rhythm since I was holding the camera in the left hand..

 

[foxmeadow]

I have, in the past, been a cheap bastard, so I started with a Lee Loadmaster. I started with .38, .357, then .45 ACP
, then .223, then 9mm. I have had a serious love/hate relationship with this machine. The primer system is all plastic, under-engineered, and totally unreliable for more than 50 rds. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, and have looked at the problems I've had very carefully and have come to the conclusion that, once in a while, everything works as hoped for while lubrication, adjustment and rhythm remain constant. It got to the point that .223 had to be hand primed to avoid dumping LOTS of powder through the flash hole when the primer system randomly failed to seat a primer.
When I acquired a 9mm (M&P, marvelous pistol), I set up for that caliber and sallied forth. I loaded 700 rounds without a hiccup, concluding that my press liked 9mm(???). The next time I sat down with it, after standard lubing, dusting, chanting, etc. I experienced about a 40% failure rate in primer seating, same primers, cases, etc.
I didn't exactly run screaming off into the woods I am blessed to live in, but I did take a look at the annoyance factor I had been living with for the last few (15?) years. Enough.
Still the ultimate cheapskate, I dusted off the Dillon RL450, acquired in a trade, that had been sitting in the corner, muttering "look at me" for a few years. I ordered upgrade parts from Dillon, primer system, powder system, auto eject, etc., and now I have an almost 550B, minus the quick change capacity. I bought Hornady locking collars (really failproof) for all my dies, utilized my Lee Pro Auto Disk powder measures, ( they work fine in the Dillon), bought a Frankford Vibra-prime for filling primer tubes, and loaded about 2000 9mm, WITH ZERO DRAMA. I'm sold on blue stuff..

 

[PX4WA]

I have, in the past, been a cheap bastard, so I started with a Lee Loadmaster.

you sound just like me...

still have the lee loadmaster.. it's workable but it is definitely a slow poke...

but I'm the opposite, mine loves large primers and has been mostly trouble free with LP... now SP, it has a lot of issues...

 

[hoody]

Just a thought on saving a little money when going progressive: I have a 650 but without the automated case feeder. I thought I'd want to get the case feeder later, but now I've changed my mind. You can stack about 20 45 Auto cases and about 10 223 cases in the tube. I'm not loading in a hurry, so it turns out to be no big deal to refill the tube. Bonus: caliber conversions are that much simpler if you don't have to mess with the case feeder. I also appreciate the lack of noise.

 

[Bxc53]

As the thread starter, I thought I'd post one more update:

After about 2000 rounds and one caliber change ( 9mm to 40SW), I remain happy with my choice of the Lock n Load AP.

The initial glitches and indexing hangups have disappeared. Maybe it broke in, maybe I learned the rhythm on the handle.

The caliber change was pretty easy, the only fiddly part was setting up the powder measure for drop weight and proper actuation by the case. No PTX yet, I will try one later.

The case loader is still on my wishlist, a bullet feeder seems less a priority. I might try a bullet feeder die and a stack tube before investing in a bullet collator. Right now, hand feeding the bullets keeps me focused on the loader to avoid 'loader hypnosis' .

No Powder cop or RCBS lock out die yet. I see that Hornady now has a lock out like unit with a switch to run a light or buzzer. <broken link removed>
That may be the way I go.

I still haven't had a chance to test drive a Dillon, but my experience with the Hornady so far would not discourage me from doing it again.

 

[techiej]

FWIW I've got the LNL AP with case feeder & bullet feeder and if I were to do it again I would just use a bullet feeder die & stack tube...mostly due to the noise of the bullet collator.

 

[Ben B.]

As the thread starter, I thought I'd post one more update:

After about 2000 rounds and one caliber change ( 9mm to 40SW), I remain happy with my choice of the Lock n Load AP.

The initial glitches and indexing hangups have disappeared. Maybe it broke in, maybe I learned the rhythm on the handle...

Maybe you got all the settings/adjustments dialed in?

 

[usagi]

The caliber change was pretty easy, the only fiddly part was setting up the powder measure for drop weight and proper actuation by the case. No PTX yet, I will try one later.

if you change calibers a lot, there's a couple things you can do to make it easier & faster.

1) buy multiple powder measure dies (just the lower half assembly, not the whole powder drop system), dial it in to do a full drop for your caliber with the proper spacer. label it with the caliber. then you never have to dial in a powder drop die again. just swap the die and you're good to go.
2) buy multiple measuring pistons. once you've dialed in a charge, lock the piston really good and label the charge weight on it.

as for the powder checker die, i'd go with the lockout die. does the same thing but is half the price of the hornady die.

 

[PX4WA]

for the price of the hornady I'd buy the dillon warning system

but I do agree the RCBS lock die is my preference...

the bullet feeder is really not needed... the case feeder, thats a different story..