Build Thread Which 80% Glock 17 frames are good to best?

[Yarome]

Unfortunately it does not come with the jig & stuff. That's 29.99 for the jig with the extra's and $149.99 for the frame. It is worth paying the extra money though in my opinion.

I've never done a GST-9, but my understanding is that the jig isn't really "optional" since it also contains the slide rails (not included with the frame). Both are required.

Kind of confusing too since the description clearly states it is a "4-in-1 platfom" and will take a G17 slide... then further down clearly states it "does NOT accept Glock `17 slides".

 

[Trav_Man]

I've never done a GST-9, but my understanding is that the jig isn't really "optional" since it also contains the slide rails (not included with the frame). Both are required.

Kind of confusing too since the description clearly states it is a "4-in-1 platfom" and will take a G17 slide... then further down clearly states it "does NOT accept Glock `17 slides".

You are totally right on all accounts it is really confusing sorry I thought they made the larger frame for a 17 aswell. My bad. If you wanted to go with the GST-9 but you wanted a 17 slide you could make a 19XL. Oh and the Jig is way way nicer than the polymer 80 jigs they make it much easier to drill the wholes straight if you were yo use a hand drill.

 

[DirectDrive]

You are totally right on all accounts it is really confusing sorry I thought they made the larger frame for a 17 aswell. My bad. If you wanted to go with the GST-9 but you wanted a 17 slide you could make a 19XL. Oh and the Jig is way way nicer than the polymer 80 jigs they make it much easier to drill the wholes straight if you were yo use a hand drill.

I made up a drill jig to work with the P80 jig to keep the holes square to the frame.
(random drill location to show jig)

 

[Trav_Man]

I made up a drill jig to work with the P80 jig to keep the holes square to the frame.
(random drill location to show jig)

View attachment 1152441

Good thinking right there

 

[Yarome]

Thanks or the tip on Arm or Ally. They arrived today so right on 7 days from order to delivery. The only thing I didn't really like was the $5.90 mandatory fee for signature required service and having to take extra steps to opt out of the additional shipping insurance fee.

True to what I've come to expect from USPS "signature required" service, they simply dump it off in your mailbox and slap some other erroneous "delivered" label on the tracking. This time it was, "delivered to agent for final delivery". I guess my mailbox is my delivery "agent", but not so sure he earned his $5.90 fee.

 

[The Heretic]

This time it was, "delivered to agent for final delivery". I guess my mailbox is my delivery "agent", but not so sure he earned his $5.90 fee.

Probably USPS for the "last mile".

 

[Yarome]

Probably USPS for the "last mile".

USPS the whole way. From the mailboxes it IS a whole 15ys away, though. A bit of a long walk for only $5.90 I guess.

 

[TDH]

Got the holes drilled and removed the tabs with a razor knife. Installed the lower parts kit, now I need to order a slide and barrel. I didn't want to order those on the chance I butchered the lower.

 

[Yarome]

Got the holes drilled and removed the tabs with a razor knife. Installed the lower parts kit, now I need to order a slide and barrel. I didn't want to order those on the chance I butchered the lower.

That's where the fun can start. Levelling and fitting the rails for smooth operation once you have your slide. I did a couple write-ups on previous builds, but maybe the main "tip" to offer would be to use a permanent marker on the rails to check the wear pattern in the ink when doing the fine adjustments. They aren't always level, may have imperfections/burrs and require a little TLC with a file/sandpaper/polishing to get smooth and even operation along the full length of the rails.

Of course, the other route is just sending a lot of lead down the pipe and hope it works itself in, but with the cost of ammo, and considering the unnecessary wear and tear on the rails and slide channels... spending a little time and attention to detail can go a long way.

 

[DirectDrive]

I got my G19 clone's slide on for the first time and it was almost locked up solid.
Polymer 80 said to keep the rails/grooves bone dry and work the slide.
That didn't work at all.
I had some engine assembly lube called Microlon (white lithium based).
If this was good enough to protect critical parts on engine start-up, then it should be overkill for pistol rails.

The Microlon worked.
That P80 is one of my favorite pistols to shoot and the slide is butter smooth.

 

[TDH]

Barrel, sights,slide parts kit installed. Took it out to the range today. Put about 150 rounds, 100ish 115, 50 147s through it. One FTF, and two FTE in the last two magazines. It was dirty, I'll forgive it.

Overall cool project. Might need a bigger one now.

 

[Yarome]

Polymer 80 said to keep the rails/grooves bone dry and work the slide.

I know they tell you that, and to rack it dry 400-500 times before any use, but there is often a lot you can do to improve the fit that doesn't require excessive wear-in. Some frame builds simply line up better than others, but I've had a couple that were less than smooth. Generally the rear rails not being at proper 90 degree angles, burrs, high points or imperfections that can be filed, etc.

On one, the front rails were riding only on the left front 1/8" and the right sides back 1/8" or so. Refitting the forward rail socket and doing a little filing got them riding equally along the full length on both sides. You don't want to go too far and you do want a good tight fit to allow for some break in, but it really should be fully function without abusing it right out of the box.

IMHO, just racking it until it wears itself in will cause excessive wear on the rails and slide channels that will eventually lead to a sloppy slide and inaccuracy prematurely.

 

[Yarome]

Might need a bigger one now.

Careful!! They are addictive...

 

[TDH]