Where can I locally buy CCI #41 primers, 55 gr. FMJ M193 bullets and H335 powder?

datguy · Feb 19, 2012

I got the Chrony Alpha.

Kevatc · Feb 19, 2012

deadshot2 said:
There are a couple views on which method to use. Here are mine.

Reaming is chosen by most as it only requires a simple and inexpensive tool. All they do is ream the crimp at the mouth of the primer pocket (once the old primer is removed) leaving a chamfer on the edge of the pocket so the new primer will slip in. Yes, the method is inexpensive but it removes metal. It also doesn't do anything to restore the primer pocket dimensions which may have been distorted by the crimp process. The walls of the pocket may be somewhat hour-glassed shaped after crimping and most reamers don't correct this. The problem as I see it with "Auto Reamers" is that they can overdo the process. If not set up correctly, or monitored regularly, they can actually "counter bore" the primer pocket. This leaves a portion of the primer unsupported and reduces the "grip" on the primer which could lead to blown out primers which can then jamb an auto-loader.

If one swages the primer pocket they're pressing a tool into the pocket that pushes the metal displaced by the crimping process back where it started or at least just out of the way. The nose of the tool also re-forms the primer pocket to more of a perfect cylinder shape. A swaging tool puts a radius on the mouth of the primer pocket so new primers are easily inserted. A swaged primer pocket provides the same metal contact area as a new case therefore none of the primer is unsupported reducing the blow out problem earlier described. A swaged primer pocket is more likely to be centered on the axis of the case as it doesn't remove metal, it just follows the original primer pocket dimensions.

Tools for swaging can run from the "mid $30" range to $100 or so for a Dillon Super Swage. A swaging station is included in a Dillon 1050 progressive press but the press has an entry level price of around $1500 so only the real high volume shooters, as a rule, go this route.

I have a Dillon Super Swage that I bough for less than $100. I have it mounted on a board that sits in my lap and I swage while watching TV. Have swaged tens of thousands of pieces of brass like this over the years and the brass I process like this is good for many reloads. I've picked up some brass that's been "Auto Reamed" that I've had to toss out after the first reload due to the "machine" overdoing the process and the primer pockets being loose as a goose.

If one "reams" and does it right there's probably no problem with the process. If they swage, it's a better finished product (no metal removed) and it's harder to screw up the process.

The choice is yours.

Great info. Thanks for posting.

deadshot2 · Feb 20, 2012

datguy said:
I got the Chrony Alpha.

Good, inexpensive unit. You will need to be careful about lighting if you want reliable readings. Also, if on an outdoor range with covered shooting positions, any fluorescent lights will cause it to "wig out".

A tip: Get some welding rod the same diameter as the rods supplied. Cut some pieces about 2" long and insert them in the holes that the rods go in. Then use soda straws instead of the full length rods. This will only work when you don't need the sky screens for a bright sunny day. By using the straws the unit doesn't get damaged when you hit one of the rods with a bullet, by accident. Some also use wood dowels.

Hopefully it's the "Master" model that has the remote readout that sits on the bench.

rrojohnso · Feb 20, 2012

deadshot2 said:
Some also use wood dowels.

That's one heck of a good idea. I have the Gamma Master model, and will definitely do this. Lighting is an issue, and I have taken a few test rounds to make sure I've set it up properly before I get to checking my loads. The remote readout is great.

datguy · Feb 20, 2012

deadshot2 said:
Good, inexpensive unit. You will need to be careful about lighting if you want reliable readings. Also, if on an outdoor range with covered shooting positions, any fluorescent lights will cause it to "wig out".

A tip: Get some welding rod the same diameter as the rods supplied. Cut some pieces about 2" long and insert them in the holes that the rods go in. Then use soda straws instead of the full length rods. This will only work when you don't need the sky screens for a bright sunny day. By using the straws the unit doesn't get damaged when you hit one of the rods with a bullet, by accident. Some also use wood dowels.

Hopefully it's the "Master" model that has the remote readout that sits on the bench.

Wish I would have read this before hitting the range today. I hit the damn steel rods... TWICE! With a .308! I can not believe how f'ing easy it is, apparently, to hit the damn things! I will be using dowels next time!

I do not have a master model. Really wishing I did have one right about now..

deadshot2 · Feb 21, 2012

datguy said:
Wish I would have read this before hitting the range today. I hit the damn steel rods... TWICE! With a .308! I can not believe how f'ing easy it is, apparently, to hit the damn things! I will be using dowels next time!

I do not have a master model. Really wishing I did have one right about now..

I'll pass on a little tip on how to set up a chronograph quick and easy and avoid hitting it when shooting a scoped rifle.

Go find one of the lesser expensive laser bore sighters that sticks into the muzzle. I found one for about $25. Set your rifle on a rest and using sandbags or whatever else you may have around, brace the rifle in it's shooting position and aimed at the target. Put the "bore sighter" in the muzzle and turn it on.

Set up your chronograph and adjust its position so the laser beam passes through the 'sweet spot' of the chronograph (usually half way from the sensor to the sky screen and centered between the supports). Just use your hand to locate the beam and make adjustments as necessary.

The larges cause of "Chrono Kills" is a scoped rifle. People will line them up using the scope and overlook the fact that the bullet starts out 1.5" - 2" BELOW the line of sight.

If you shoot at a range, that allows the use of Chronographs. the quicker you can set up, the less irritated the other shooters get over the Cease Fire delay. This makes it quick.

datguy · Feb 21, 2012

I thought of something similar after I hit the damn thing the second time. I had height good, as proved by the bullet impact on the damn wire

The issue is, I need a rest. Any suggestions? A guy at the range doing the same thing (clocking his hand loads) had a <broken link removed> . It seems like a good one. He also had Chrony's LED infrared light setup for his Chrony. Every reading was consistent. Seems like these are both going to be essential to getting good and accurate chronographs results.