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What's Your .22 Suppressor Baffle Pre-treat?

Discussion in 'NFA Weapon Discussion' started by Doc In UPlace, Feb 27, 2016.

  1. Doc In UPlace

    Doc In UPlace Tacoma-ish Well-Known Member

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    In an effort to reduce the bond between molten .22LR lead and suppressor baffles, have been using a light coat of TW25b grease, applied with a small paintbrush, as the last step in cleaning.

    It has helped make the next cleaning job somewhat easier, but now am wondering if there's something better.

    In a recent visit to a Rimfire forum I saw several recommendations for anti-seize compound specifically the brand Permatex. Are the anti-seize formulas all about the same?

    What do you use?
     
  2. deadeye

    deadeye Albany,OR. Moderator Staff Member

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  3. Twodogs

    Twodogs portland Or Active Member

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    I've been using fireclean but I'm going to try preheating parts then silicone oil dip.
     
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  4. jbett98

    jbett98 NW Oregon Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    I use Loctite's anti seize nickel.
    It's designed for very high temps on stainless steel fasteners.
    The spray can is handy but puts a thinner coat on the internals, so I would recommend the paste.
    I also use it in my Ar's buffer recoil spring tube and it really helps with the noisy spring sound.

    upload_2016-2-28_9-27-4.jpeg
     
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  5. Doc In UPlace

    Doc In UPlace Tacoma-ish Well-Known Member

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    I'm gonna try both of these, the Loctite and Praxair, and have a coating of anti-seize in there now waiting for the next range outing; thank you for the suggestions.

    Each one of these will cost less than $8 each to try, (maybe except the loctite, lol) and sounds like all of them are much better than running the baffles uncoated.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2016
  6. PDXSparky

    PDXSparky Keizer / Hillsboro Well-Known Member

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  7. VWTim

    VWTim Corvallis, OR Member

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    I soaked my new Axiom with DOT 5 brake fluid to get a coating of silicone oil on it. I have only shot a couple hundred rounds thru it, but in testing a bit, it mostly wiped clean with a rag.
     
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  8. broncman

    broncman E. of Portland yet to close! Quality Control!

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    Anyone try z-max or anything similar that penetrates the metal? I mean if that stuff really lifts and prevents carbon deposits inside an engine maybe it is the holly grail in terms of keeping baffles clean.
    I don't know but was just thinking aloud!
     
  9. Schwabdl

    Schwabdl Hillsboro Active Member

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    I never clean 22 cans they get quieter when they're dirty
     
  10. PDXSparky

    PDXSparky Keizer / Hillsboro Well-Known Member

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    That is true, but only up to a point. They also get heavier as they collect lead inside.
     
  11. jbett98

    jbett98 NW Oregon Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    And at some point you won't be able to take it apart, unless it's made like a SilencerCo Sparrow.
     
  12. ZigZagZeke

    ZigZagZeke Eugene Silver Supporter Silver Supporter 2015 Volunteer

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    FelPro makes an equivalent product called N5000 that we used on stainless pieces in a nuclear power plant. Good stuff.
     
  13. drstrangelove

    drstrangelove Vancouver, WA Active Member

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    I've had good results with Frog Lube paste up to 100rds with paper towel cleanup, but >100 makes the blast chamber require a 12ga brass brush chucked into a cordless drill.
     
  14. Doc In UPlace

    Doc In UPlace Tacoma-ish Well-Known Member

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    It's true in my experience too, that there is a time when the build-up goes from being like a carbon layer which is easy to remove... into a metal-bonded coating that is much more difficult to get off.

    Revisiting this thread I am reminded that I still haven't got out to shoot the copper-based anti-seize treated baffles. So much for March and April. :eek:
     
  15. Ura-Ki

    Ura-Ki Sub Light Speed Well-Known Member

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    One thing I have found with the permatex is that it is very messy, it gets on and in every thing, and stains non metals near permanently! I have been using LocEase which is a liquid that evaporate into a dry lube that works for around a 100 or so rounds before it no longer works. I have been looking into a teflon coating but I haven't found any thing for civilian use, yet! I may also look into ceramic coatings to see if that may help!
     
  16. PiratePast40

    PiratePast40 Willamette Valley Well-Known Member

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    I remember using Neo Lube on valve caps. From what I recall, it was isopropyl alcohol with graphite. The main purpose was to prevent galling but seems it would leave a good barrier layer.
     
  17. 70cyclone

    70cyclone Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    agree about the permatex...works great but can be a mess to deal with.
    ceramic coatings would be interesting...may have to stop into the local shop and see what they think
     
  18. Mike Generallo

    Mike Generallo S. FL New Member

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    new guy here, adding my thoughts. I use the gold (copper) anti-seize in my suppressors. The lead, burnt and unburnt power get captured by the grease.
    I then shoot break cleaner in and it all rolls right on out. It also shoots a wee bit quieter. Wipe with a rag and you are done. Be sure to where rubber gloves as not to contaminate yourself.
     
  19. wired

    wired Yakima Well-Known Member

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    I run mine dry until it leads up good . Then I soak the baffles for a few days in paracetic acid. Come out looking like new.
     
  20. Mike Generallo

    Mike Generallo S. FL New Member

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    My cans have aluminum baffles. your acid would make quick work on them, that is why I use the anti-seize.