JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
I am trying to order an OGIVE gauge. Are they universal for 0.308 calibers or do you need to get separate ones for 30-06 and 300 WM? Any advise what models are good. I need one to fit the caliper shown in the pictures.
Its called a "bullet comparitor"

They are all the same .308 dia. Bullets so yes the same gauge will work for all of them. I already linked the Hornady one in a previous post should be within the past few pages. But i will try and find it again here.

I use the Hornady insert holder. (Its the same holder for measuring headspace AND bullet seating depth (for ogive)
There is two sets. One set is for headspace. One is for bullet seating..
I got the long body holder so i can measure anything inside without the bullet tip bottoming out inside. (So no matter how long the bullet it will git over it.)
So i just ordered the headspace set. And then i ordered the specific (steel) inserts for .22 and 6.5

I also have the Brownells hex nut style ones. I WOULD NOT recommend those. They are tapered cones. And more confusing and inconsistent BUT they are cheap. So they are tempting. They are a great idea executed poorly.
 
The set I recommend
Headspace:

The bullet seating comparitor set:

Im not seeing the longer grey anodized insert holder. Not sure where i got it now?

Heres the nicer inserts i like. They are stainless. In my opinion no real precision measuring device should be made out of alum. Case in point the Hornady ones can have small nicks in the measuring surface if you look (and i would check them) you can remove those small nicks without affecting accuracy results.
These have a MUCH smaller chamfer at the mouth opening as well making them more accurate in reference to the surface and anvil that you zero off of. The hornady ones have a bigger chamfer presenting what appears to be error.
Sinclair stuff is nice, but spendy. Buy once cry once.
https://www.brownells.com/reloading...llet-comparator-inserts-prod126648.aspx?dym=y

Aha! I found the "body" aka insert holder. Apparently that one is a Sinclair product as well. The "XL bullet comparitor & bump gage body"
Hidden under this product page:

Screenshot_2021-05-30-01-54-31.png
 
Last Edited:
Sheesh, Guys, I didn't know that reloading was sooooooooooooooo complicated. I've mentioned that I have a RCBS Rockchucker and standard dies, but I don't have anything else like a comparator or something that has not yet been mentioned, but is probably vital - a meplat trimmer.

Still, with my very simple and basic loading gear, this was my last five shots this morning - 155gr Lapua Scenar over 39.5gr of Vihtavuori N140, CCI #22 LR primers and Norma cases - 100m. The rifle was my 35year-old Krico 650S. Scope is my faithish Nightforce NSX 8-32x56 set on x22 - at which setting the MIL dot is actually a MIL all the way out there to my usual 950m or so maximum.

1622372730158.png
 
Sheesh, Guys, I didn't know that reloading was sooooooooooooooo complicated. I've mentioned that I have a RCBS Rockchucker and standard dies, but I don't have anything else like a comparator or something that has not yet been mentioned, but is probably vital - a meplat trimmer.

Still, with my very simple and basic loading gear, this was my last five shots this morning - 155gr Lapua Scenar over 39.5gr of Vihtavuori N140, CCI #22 LR primers and Norma cases - 100m. The rifle was my 35year-old Krico 650S. Scope is my faithish Nightforce NSX 8-32x56 set on x22 - at which setting the MIL dot is actually a MIL all the way out there to my usual 950m or so maximum.

View attachment 895250
It doesn't hurt.. These targets are shot with a home made AR in semi auto mode with a $150 barrel, BEFORE playing with seating depth at all. Using pretty cheap components. Just S&B or FC brass, regular CCI 400 primers (not benchrest) and cheap. Hornady 75gn BTHP's also a cheap Primary arms scope. 4-14 HUD DMR.
These are also the first ladder tests I've ever shot. So plenty of room for improvement. To each their own. I don't expect everyone to do what i do. But it seems to work for me (so far with my limited experience

You can clearly see there several nodes to refine further and do some small ladders around them then ill play with the seating depth eek a little smaller groups out of these.

Man im jealous you have 950m to test on..

20201112_035046_HDR.jpg 20201112_035019_HDR.jpg
 
Last Edited:
Sheesh, Guys, I didn't know that reloading was sooooooooooooooo complicated. I've mentioned that I have a RCBS Rockchucker and standard dies, but I don't have anything else like a comparator or something that has not yet been mentioned, but is probably vital - a meplat trimmer.

Still, with my very simple and basic loading gear, this was my last five shots this morning - 155gr Lapua Scenar over 39.5gr of Vihtavuori N140, CCI #22 LR primers and Norma cases - 100m. The rifle was my 35year-old Krico 650S. Scope is my faithish Nightforce NSX 8-32x56 set on x22 - at which setting the MIL dot is actually a MIL all the way out there to my usual 950m or so maximum.

View attachment 895250
You probably should look into a new trigger spring.








Lol, not really!
 
It doesn't hurt.. These targets are shot with a home made AR in semi auto mode with a $150 barrel, BEFORE playing with seating depth at all. Using pretty cheap components. Just S&B or FC brass, regular CCI 400 primers (not benchrest) and cheap. Hornady 75gn BTHP's also a cheap Primary arms scope. 4-14 HUD DMR.
These are also the first ladder tests I've ever shot. So plenty of room for improvement. To each their own. I don't expect everyone to do what i do. But it seems to work for me (so far with my limited experience)

Man im jealous you have 950m to test on..

View attachment 895254 View attachment 895255
Actually there are three ranges within an easy drive of 1200m and one up to 1400m. Our local *public school - Oundle School - has a 600m range for the sole use of its Combined Cadet Force [CCF] - youngsters from 12 - 18 who like to learn more of the military way of life and the shooting that goes with it.

Even the old National shooting centre at Bisley has 100 position ranges of 1000 and 1200 yards.

*NB - a public school here in UK is what you would call a private school. The YOU call a public school is what WE call a state school. I won a scholarship and went to a public school. It was found by Queen Elizabeth I, way back when, to educate poor boys. Not until the early 60's were girls allowed in.
 
Actually there are three ranges within an easy drive of 1200m and one up to 1400m. Our local *public school - Oundle School - has a 600m range for the sole use of its Combined Cadet Force [CCF] - youngsters from 12 - 18 who like to learn more of the military way of life and the shooting that goes with it.

Even the old National shooting centre at Bisley has 100 position ranges of 1000 and 1200 yards.

*NB - a public school here in UK is what you would call a private school. The YOU call a public school is what WE call a state school. I won a scholarship and went to a public school. It was found by Queen Elizabeth I, way back when, to educate poor boys. Not until the early 60's were girls allowed in.
I think Bisley is the range I've seen TiborasaurusRex at reviewing VERY high end tripods and other gear cant remember the name but that range looks amazing.
VERY interesting. Good to hear too! Glad the youth there get a taste of self defense and respect for equipment and usage. Its a good thing to learn at a young age.
 
It doesn't hurt.. These targets are shot with a home made AR in semi auto mode with a $150 barrel, BEFORE playing with seating depth at all. Using pretty cheap components. Just S&B or FC brass, regular CCI 400 primers (not benchrest) and cheap. Hornady 75gn BTHP's also a cheap Primary arms scope. 4-14 HUD DMR.
These are also the first ladder tests I've ever shot. So plenty of room for improvement. To each their own. I don't expect everyone to do what i do. But it seems to work for me (so far with my limited experience)

Man im jealous you have 950m to test on..

View attachment 895254 View attachment 895255
These also had ZERO rear rest. Just a front bipod nothing special. I still need to make a rear bag. Too broke atm.
 
Yup, that's the one! It was on a review for range master precision arms or RPA. They have REALLY sweet looking gear. That tripod @ 17:40 is lust worthy..
Id love to just try one of these.
Sry to hijack the thread, please review my pertinent post(s) above. I listed quite a bit for you.
 
Thanks you all so much for all your help. I reloaded 9 groups of 6 rounds each (In the picture below you can see tape on each cartridge, but of course I removed it when loaded cartridges into rifle). I kept a constant load of 49.5gr and changed bulled seating. Since I do not have a gauge to measure OGIVE (I am ordering one now), right now I can only measure OAL of the cartridges. Group 1 had OAL 3.270-3.275 and last group 9 had AOL 3.310-3.315. I shot 5 rounds from each group. I left one cartridge from each group to have a master cartridge that I can use to measure OGIVE when the gauge arrives. That way I can set bullet seating equal to the bullet seating of the master cartridge. I will buy another used press and dedicate that press jut for bullet seating. Right now I am using an old RCBS JR2 press that I got for $50, and after disassembling, cleaning and greasing it (of course I only greased joints that do not come in contact with cartridges), the press works great (these old presses are made better than new ones and will probably outlast me).

All 45 rounds worked great and an experienced reloader at the range looked shot cases and told me they all looked perfect and absolutely no symptoms of any overpressure. All the rounds perfectly recycled and the rifle was as smooth as you would expect from Tikka. The best grouping came out of Group 4. All groups were tight except 8 and 9. I am not sure if my rifle does not like short bullet jump, or the barrel was too hot and grouping was spreading (the range was closing at 6pm and I was rushing these last two groups and did not cool the barrel after groups 6 and 7 (I was cooling barrel between every 2 groups). I was shooting 100 yards off a bench with a send back front support. Here I posted a picture of reloaded rounds (just before I headed to the range) and pictures of the best group (Group 4). If I count all 5 shots, group 4 came at 0.8in, and if I count 4 best shots that group is 0.6in. I think I might be happy with group 4 and just use that reloading scheme. Keep in mind that the trigger on my Tikka is factory one with factory spring. I just ordered MCARBO spring for it, so I am expecting that to slightly improved accuracy (every other rifle I have incproved accuracy after I installed MCARBO spring).

View attachment 895057 View attachment 895058 View attachment 895059 View attachment 895060
These are mititoyo calipers right? I have a few pairs ill check a older and newer one. So far those holders i listed fit both of mine the digitals and dials. Ill check the older pair tomorrow.
 
'+/- .1 of a grain is more than enough for accurate loads as the idea is to find a node where poi is affected the least over the widest powder charge deviation. If you find and load in the middle of a wide node +/- .2 of a grains should yield good results. Concentrate on consistent brass prep including consistent neck tension and you will have good results. Welcome to the rabbit hole.
 
Just a quick pass by here.

Some folks suggested you were on the high end of some load. Be careful starting fast.

Don't ignore perfectly flattened primers. Nobody ignores that.

Seems like the session went well. Good for you.

Somebody posted recently that their loads worked quite well in the absence of a comparator. Much wisdom between those lines.

Anyone can make reloading as complex and time-consuming as they want.

Continue loading and shooting. You'll find your own niche.

Beware drama claims accompanied by exclamation points, when said claims make little sense.

Good luck, have fun, etc.
 
Last Edited:
Just a quick pass by here.

Some folks suggested you were on the high end of some load. Be careful starting fast.

Don't ignore perfectly flattened primers. Nobody ignores that.

Seems like the session went well. Good for you.

Somebody posted recently that their loads worked quite well in the absence of a comparator. Much wisdom between those lines.

Anyone can make reloading as complex and time-consuming as they want.

Continue loading and shooting. You'll find your own niche.

Beware drama claims accompanied by exclamation points, when said claims make little sense.

Good luck, have fun, etc.
First off great write up 100% accurate (which we all like)
It all works, and to each their own. I simply prefer to keep tight controls on inspection. That way as im new if something changes results wise i kinda know what to look at, like my technique.
I just want to rule out the variables and make sure they are. Totally unnecessary but makes me comfortable. But im also not shooting for average accuracy reloads. I want the most i can get out if it. Period.
Some day i hope to get into the super long range ELR stuff. Hopefully before my eyes and nerves go!
 
Thank you for great encouragement. I had a long day today, but was able to spend an hour at our range and take few left over reloads from yesterday. The only cartridge I did not shoot is Group 4 cartridge that I will use for as my master cartridge. After analyzing all the groups from yesterday and today I think my Tikka M658 is not that bullet jump sensitive. Take a loot at the pictures below. The first pic is 3 shots (left over reloads from Group 1, 2 and 3), and the second pic shows 5 shot group (leftover reloads from Groups 5,6,7,8 and 9). If the rifle was bullet jump sensitive, no way these shots would group this well. At this point I am sticking with Group 4 reload parameters and will play with powder charge (49.5, 49, 48.5 and 48 with IMR-4064). I also have IMR-4320, Hunter , Win 760 and RX22 powders and might try them two (of course each of these powders in their respective charge range). Tonight I again went to MidwayUS and emptied some more of my wallet and ordered Lyman case trimmer (most of the 30-06 cases that I shot are at the length limit, so I need to resize them) and 100 cases of Nosler 300 Win Mag brass. For 300 Win Mag reloads (in fact with brand new cases I think more correct term is loads) I am planning to start with Nosler HPBT 168 gr bullets, Federal 215 primers and RX22. The first round of reloads I will keep constant bullet seating and vary powder charge, and then after I find optimum powder charge I will start varying bullet seatings.

20210530_162602.jpg 20210530_223346.jpg
 
Sorry but this is terrible advice, seating a bullet deeper without changing anything else will INCREASE pressure.
If you seat a bullet on average of 1/16" or .062" it CAN increase the pressure as much as 10K psi. (This isnt a logarithmic scale)
And .04" is a massive increments to use. The whole point is to find a node. Maybe several. Just like your powder node.

This is specifically why you actually spend the time to find out your true "jamb" seating depth, and then back it off a good way around MAX of .03" and then INCREASE (AND ONLY INCREASE THE SEATING LENGTH) around .003-.004" and shoot those in 3 shot groups.

Seating deeper AFTER finding your load is a excellent way to blow your face off. And .04" makes it fairly pointless to even try and find seating depth. Might as well just throw random seating depths at it and hope. Not scientific at all.

One you find your best seating node, then every 500 round or so you seat 3 .003" longer and see if those three group better than your standard load. If they do, that's your new seating depth because your throat has worn in by that much. And your actually keeping it consistent with the wear.

It also shouldn't take you much longer to load up those node tests every .003" than it would to do your regular powder load ladder tests.
Especially with the forster micrometer seater. Just turn the dial out every .003" easy as can be!
You're almost right, but mostly wrong. At the tail ends of the seating spectrum pressure does increase. Jamming into the lands, or really really short. In between the tails pressure actually drops.

Read this:




P
 
Don't ignore perfectly flattened primers. Nobody ignores that.
I ignore that. A lot of reloader ignore that. Google it, here's a sample:





P
 
You're almost right, but mostly wrong. At the tail ends of the seating spectrum pressure does increase. Jamming into the lands, or really really short. In between the tails pressure actually drops.

Read this:




P
My Tikka does seems not to case too much about bullet jump. I shot groups of various seating depths (I posted pics above) and they were all grouping well.
 

Upcoming Events

Tillamook Gun & Knife Show
Tillamook, OR
"The Original" Kalispell Gun Show
Kalispell, MT
Teen Rifle 1 Class
Springfield, OR
Kids Firearm Safety 2 Class
Springfield, OR

New Resource Reviews

New Classified Ads

Back Top