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Amazingly the rifle still held together with that 83gr charge (except for bulge).^
Yeah, when its like 8 grains to push a 150ish grain .44 cal out the tube.
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Amazingly the rifle still held together with that 83gr charge (except for bulge).^
Yeah, when its like 8 grains to push a 150ish grain .44 cal out the tube.
Amazingly the rifle still held together with that 83gr charge (except for bulge).
It was the 80gr charge of titegroup that blew the rifle open. H-110 charge just bulged the barrel.Were you watching the same video that I was? The breech was blown wide open on the one I looked at.
It was the 80gr charge of titegroup that blew the rifle open. H-110 charge just bulged the barrel.
Again its way to much math and chemistry for me.
But I do know that its a bad idea to use smokeless powder in a firearm designed for black powder
Don't do it.
Keep it simple...use black powder , or a black powder substitute ( if you must ) in muzzle loading firearms.
Andy
Simply put....Black powder operates at a lower pressure than smokeless powder.
There is far more math and science into this...but I don't worry my pretty little head 'bout it.....
Andy
Edit to add :
A excellent resource for this question is :
Lyman Black powder Handbook...I have a copy will dig up the actual answer later if you would like.
Can, it just has to be formulated to burn "like" BP I believe. The hardcore enthusiasts don't seem to be unitedly behind the concept.Why can't smokeless powder be used in a muzzleloader?
It's a safety trigger for sure. If I ever try it in my Traditions Pursuit, it will be with fishing line pulling the trigger. I think Trail Boss might be a good candidate if you can from crushing it too badly when seating the projectile.Can, it just has to be formulated to burn "like" BP I believe. The hardcore enthusiasts don't seem to be unitedly behind the concept.
They make powders specifically as BP replacements.It's a safety trigger for sure. If I ever try it in my Traditions Pursuit, it will be with fishing line pulling the trigger. I think Trail Boss might be a good candidate if you can from crushing it too badly when seating the projectile.
Pyrodex is all I have used in my inline, I have never used Black Powder.They make powders specifically as BP replacements.
Black powder substitute - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org
My inline use percussion caps and I haven't had any problems lighting up the triple 7sMost people were introduced to the subs, like Pyrodex, because they had difficulty in find real BP. I was, back in 1981, because we lived in Berlin, and there was NO BP as it was deemed to be a military propellant and therefore banned by the Four-Power Agreement that allowed or prohibited what went on in that then-divided city. So if I wanted to shoot my couple of BP guns, it was a sub or nothing. A good friend at the time, who was then, and still is, a well-known historian, DID manage to get hold of some BP, and we used it when we were doing the stills for one of his books on the subject. I never asked how, just accepted it, and got on with shooting all manner of fascinating stuff that I'd never seen before.
Here in UK Pyrodex and subs is an easy option because it can be stored just like any other non-BP medium and does not require the special safety containers that UK and Euro safety legislation requires - a wooden box, partitioned off into six section, each holding a one pound container of BP, and with a flame-resistant closure.
Arakboss above, using Pyrodex in his in-line, can do so because he is also using #209 shotgun primers that ignite in the straight line directly into the charge. Pyrodex, BTW, is 99% useless in a flintlock because its ignition temperature is way higher than the flame generated by the burning flame of an amount of 4F in an adjacent pan. BP goes off most anything more than 175 - 250Fm but Pyrodex goes off at around 600F or so, and I'll let you guess about Triple 7.
Regardless of what the makers tell you, the subs are VERY corrosive, just in a different way. They STILL require you to clean the gun thoroughly after shooting, as soon as you are able, but because they are based on non-natural substances, just using water won't do it and they need a chemical clean-up just like nitro.
I write a lot on our sister forum, muzzleloadingforum.com - which I heartily recommend for BP-ists here - and there has been much written about the subs.
TBH, you either like 'em and use 'em, or you don't and take the micky out of those who do. However, THE advantage is that because it is bulkier than the equivalent BP, 30gr by volume of BP can be equalled by ~10% less Pyrodex, and ~15% less T7.
Most associations who shoot m/l arms of one kind or another ban ALL subs - here in UK the MLAGB and LRRBPCSA does, too, and of course, the international organisation that runs all BP competitive shooting world-wide views subs as the machinations of Satan.
One last thing - and opinions differ widely on this - but IMO the subs degrade over time - substantially. Many others disagree. I have found that IME, a 30gr load of Pyrodex P behind a ball in my Ruger Old Army will shoot like this -
NEW tub of P - average 970fps for 12 shots.
OLD tub of P - average 740fps for 12 shots.
You can take it to the bank, or ignore it - but there it is.
My inline use percussion caps and I haven't had any problems lighting up the triple 7s
That is hot!OK, then a percussion cap, and not a shotgun primer. However, the average percussion cap has a flame temperature approaching 1300F.