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I've used the Arisaka wedge system and for low clearance automotive feeler gauges.

You can also use bubble levels to level the rifle and another to level the turret or a string and plum bob.

The amount of effort really depends on the intended use of the rifle. The wedges and feeler gauges have worked well for me.

I use the Arisaka kit too, but to be aware that it doesn't work on every ring/scope combo. Rare that it doesn't but something to be aware of.

The kit is also sold with either the small wedge only or the small and large wedge combo. Check to see which you need and, obviously, there are third party/generic wedges available for less green if you wanna go that route, just doing a "one off" and/or don't require absolute precision. Not that others might not be precision, but there remains that risk sometimes when trying to save a buck.

Nothing wrong with a couple bubble levels and a wall line reference either. You just need a reliable means to secure your firearm in a level position and it takes a little more fidgeting, but really not all that difficult.
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As @3MTA3 said, the wedge method works pretty well but if the scope doesn't have a square bottom where the turrets are and the rifle doesn't have a flat spot this method doesn't work very well. I use paper with flat sharpie line on it leveled on a far wall and with rifle level in a mount, I then rotate scope until reticle horizontal line is parallel with the line (but the wedge is much easier & quicker if usable).

Link to a wedge as described above (includes both the large and small wedges):
I've used a bubble level to lock down the rifle and then a plumb-bob against a distant wall and a flashlight to project the reticle on said wall. Also used bubble level for both rifle and scope. Both seemed to work well, but also not for long range.
Next time I need to mount a scope, I'm going to try a digital angle gague. I have seen some that measure to 1/100 degree...not sure how to verify calibration/accuracy without machinist flat plate, angle blocks and precision level šŸ˜œ.
not sure how to verify calibration/accuracy without machinist flat plate, angle blocks and precision level
Easiest thing in the world. Set it on a flat surface and note the reading. Turn it 180 degrees and note the reading. If they're the same it is accurate, if they aren't it isn't. Can try it on various angled surfaces if you want to check it through a range. Doesn't matter what the angle is as long as it reads the same both ways.
Try it!!
I took a plate and mounted a rail to it, I can level off the plate with rail mounted to it. Then on the garage door I have level marks with a 4 foot level and adjust scope in rings. Picture doesn't show it but I added adjustable legs to the plate.


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