What else do I need.....Rockchucker Supreme Master Reload Kit

[No_Regerts]

A visit to Rosie's shed is a must...

Jonny is probably the most valuable video resource I've found online... he is extremely thorough and and has been my go to for 300 blackout sub sonic, and Mk262 clone loading....but unlike the above ... you won't be able to find a bunch of risqué pictures of him floating around the net.

Johnny's Reloading Bench - The Reloaders Network

Johnny's Reloading Bench - My affiliate links: https://www.reddit.com/r/JRB/comments/8w4blq/my_affiliate_links/

www.thereloadersnetwork.com

/

Just be careful when you google her. Her name is Rosie Jones and she has all these pictures and videos that aren't in compliance with the terms of YouTube or this forum!

 

[Ironbar]

A visit to Rosie's shed is a must...

Jonny is probably the most valuable video resource I've found online... he is extremely thorough and and has been my go to for 300 blackout sub sonic, and Mk262 clone loading....but unlike the above ... you won't be able to find a bunch of risqué pictures of him floating around the net.

Johnny's Reloading Bench - The Reloaders Network

Johnny's Reloading Bench - My affiliate links: https://www.reddit.com/r/JRB/comments/8w4blq/my_affiliate_links/

www.thereloadersnetwork.com

/

Sex sells!

 

[Mygrainman]

One of THESE for every caliber is imperative!!!
I know a guy that loaded 1000 rounds of 55g 5.56 that will not chamber in his AR because the die wasn't set right. A quick check every few rounds would have saved A LOT of pulling...

 

[David Sherman]

You might want to take the NRAs Basic Reloading Class:

http://www.nrainstructors.org/Search.aspx



There aren't many instructors that teach this class but if you can find one he/she will help you avoid some mistakes.

 

[WTC]

Ok well I'm ordering digital calipers, bullets puller, case trimmer, case prep machine, swagger tool, and the digital powder despencer......along with 1 more manual. Just want to have everything ready.


As for supplies I'm trying lol. I've gotten 1k .224 62g bullets, 100 55g .224, 300 132g 6.5, 2k of .223 cases, and 500 6.5 cases......

Only found 2 lbs of powder so far. Vargent and Winchester Ball......
And we won't talk about primers....

 

[arakboss]

You might eventually want to consider some of the upgrades available trough Inline Fabrication. I outfitted my Rockchucker Supreme with the Ultramount, Ergo Roller Handle, Spent Primer Catch System, and Case Eject system all pictured here:
View attachment 797575

Sweet mounting system and handle.

 

[Mikej]

Man, you guys are tough! Finding this forum is the best thing I ever did, but a lot of y'all are making this way too complicated. From what I'm reading here I'm wondering how I EVER got this far without blowing myself up or making terrible undependable ammo?

You don't NEED an electric case prep center for $160.00 to load ammunition. It's a "Convenience" for when you find yourself loading a lot of of ammo.

You don't NEED an electronic scale for another C-note-plus to hand load ammunition. (Personally, I don't feel like I could ever trust an electronic scale they way I trust my own eye on a balance beam scale)

A primer pocket swager is only needed if you are RE-loading brass that has crimped in primers.

A case gauge for every caliber you load are not an absolute NEED , (at 20 bones + a pop) For shouldered rounds a comparaotor, and the guns chamber will do. And a case gauge is not needed for handgun. The guns barrel/chamber serves the same purpose.

I started with only the one book that came with MY RCBS "Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit". A Speer #14. I found down the line that another book is GOOD to have. More info sources helps a person understand how the different loads perform with various components.

Your powder thrower? The drum that you are given with it is the large drum. At least it was when I got mine in 2011. When you're loading hand gun cases you need to get the small drum for the powder thrower. The small drum makes it MUCH easier get exact powder measurements for the smaller hand gun cases. (You really should start out with hand gun cases. The straight wall brass is much easier to prep for loading and will give you valuable experience toward how things work in preparation for loading shouldered rounds.)

I have to disagree with @ron some. If you are going to load used brass for rifle you WILL need a case trimmer. But as far as pistol brass goes, rounds that have a "Roll" crimp need to be very close in length, +/- .003", other wise crimps won't be uniform.

 

[arakboss]

Man, you guys are tough! Finding this forum is the best thing I ever did, but a lot of y'all are making this way to complicated. From what I'm reading here I'm wondering how I EVER got this far without blowing myself up or making terrible undependable ammo?

You don't NEED an electric case prep center for $160.00 to load ammunition. It's a "Convenience" for when you find yourself loading a lot of of ammo.

You don't NEED an electronic scale for another C-note-plus to hand load ammunition. (Personally, I don't feel like I could ever trust an electronic scale they way I trust my own eye on a balance beam scale)

A primer pocket swager is only needed if you are RE-loading brass that has crimped in primers.

A case gauge for every caliber you load are not an absolute NEED , (at 20 bones + a pop) For shouldered rounds a comparaotor, and the guns chamber will do. And a case gauge is not needed for handgun. The guns barrel/chamber serves the same purpose.

I started with only the one book that came with MY RCBS "Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit". A Speer #14. I found down the line that another book is GOOD to have. More info sources helps a person understand how the different loads perform with various components.

Your powder thrower? The drum that you are given with it is the large drum. At least it was when I got mine in 2011. When you're loading hand gun cases you need to get the small drum for the powder thrower. The small drum makes it MUCH easier get exact powder measurements for the smaller hand gun cases. (You really should start out with hand gun cases. The straight wall brass is much easier to prep for loading and will give you valuable experience toward how things work in preparation for loading shouldered rounds.)

I have to disagree with @ron some. If you are going to load used brass for rifle you WILL need a case trimmer. But as far as pistol brass goes, rounds that have a "Roll" crimp need to be very close in length, +/- .003", other wise crimps won't be uniform.

"Man, you guys are tough! Finding this forum is the best thing I ever did, but a lot of y'all are making this way to complicated. From what I'm reading here I'm wondering how I EVER got this far without blowing myself up or making terrible undependable ammo?"


+1

 

[Mikej]

Ok well I'm ordering digital calipers, bullets puller, case trimmer, case prep machine, swagger tool, and the digital powder despencer......along with 1 more manual. Just want to have everything ready.


As for supplies I'm trying lol. I've gotten 1k .224 62g bullets, 100 55g .224, 300 132g 6.5, 2k of .223 cases, and 500 6.5 cases......

Only found 2 lbs of powder so far. Vargent and Winchester Ball......
And we won't talk about primers....

What kind of person are you as far as mechanical inclinations? You fix your own lawn mower? Work on your own equipment? Change the oil? If you have mechanical abilities this reloading stuff is easy. A few simple rules that MUST be followed and you'll be fine.

Myself, I'm kind of a hands on guy. I was playing with my kit and seating (ruining) .45 bullets in un-charged, un-primed .45ACP brass before I'd read much. I learned that the expander die MUST be used because the deburr tool wouldn't suffice! OH, I KNEW I was dealing with highly flammable, possible explosive, dangerous stuff so knew what lines could NOT be crossed. There are some strict guidelines that must be followed, always. I like the "Only one powder at a time on the bench while loading" . Anyway, I read and played and played and read. I still have all my fingers, no fires, no blown up guns, A place on the bench, in plain view, for a couple of (non-damaging) mistakes so I'm reminded when ever I'm working there.

Do yourself a favor and read this thread...

Share your hand loading mistakes!

Share the dumb things you have seen or done so that others may learn and laugh.

www.northwestfirearms.com

Don't hesitate to bring unanswered questions you may have back to the reloading forum for any clarification needed to stop you from making the same mistakes.

 

[ron]

I have to disagree with @ron some. If you are going to load used brass for rifle you WILL need a case trimmer. But as far as pistol brass goes, rounds that have a "Roll" crimp need to be very close in length, +/- .003", other wise crimps won't be uniform.

It's Ok to disagree with me @Mikej . Crimps won't be uniform OH no! You can trim that pistol brass to your hearts content.
IMHO it is not necessary. I am giving me experiences with reloading. Not what I read or heard somewhere. I have been reloading
9 mm , 45 acp, 40 S&W, 44 mag and 38/357 pistol calibers for +35 years. Currently I reload about 4,000rounds of 9mm and
2,000 rounds of 45 acp per year. These are my 2 main caliber rounds I use for pistol matches. IDPA, falling plate 2X4 and action pistol.
I use mixed brass and have never trimmed a piece of pistol brass in my life with excellent accuracy. Hey @Mikej we need to gettogether
at the range and burn some powder. I went to Stevenson last week it was windy not very pleasant. It is nicer weather at the other
range I belong to Clark rifles. You can come as my guest. Cranking up some 9 mm.

 

[Mikej]

It's Ok to disagree with me @Mikej . Crimps won't be uniform OH no! You can trim that pistol brass to your hearts content.
IMHO it is not necessary. I am giving me experiences with reloading. Not what I read or heard somewhere. I have been reloading
9 mm , 45 acp, 40 S&W, 44 mag and 38/357 pistol calibers for +35 years. Currently I reload about 4,000rounds of 9mm and
2,000 rounds of 45 acp per year. These are my 2 main caliber rounds I use for pistol matches. IDPA, falling plate 2X4 and action pistol.
I use mixed brass and have never trimmed a piece of pistol brass in my life with excellent accuracy. Hey @Mikej we need to gettogether
at the range and burn some powder. I went to Stevenson last week it was windy not very pleasant. It is nicer weather at the other
range I belong to Clark rifles. You can come as my guest.

Not pistol brass, only brass that requires a roll crimp. I don't trim any other handgun brass.

I learned the hard way because of using, who-knows-how-many-times-fired-brass, doing a moderate roll crimp on a cartridge such as .38/.357. If your cases are varying in length up to, who knows(?), .006"+? Crimps can go from practically nothing to folded cases that won't chamber in the revolver. I'm sure it's not a life and death thing, but I still like uniformity in the process. I like shiny brass too, so I clean all my cases and throw out ugly brass.

Oh man, that sounds great. I'm reading that Clark Rifles is closed until April though? It's that that damn inslee flexing his idiocy I guess. Bastige!

And I haven't been up to the range in months. Every time we/I think about going here comes the East wind, or rain AND east wind. I'm just too lazy and comfy at home any more it seems.

 

[WTC]

What kind of person are you as far as mechanical inclinations? You fix your own lawn mower? Work on your own equipment? Change the oil? If you have mechanical abilities this reloading stuff is easy. A few simple rules that MUST be followed and you'll be fine.

Myself, I'm kind of a hands on guy. I was playing with my kit and seating (ruining) .45 bullets in un-charged, un-primed .45ACP brass before I'd read much. I learned that the expander die MUST be used because the deburr tool wouldn't suffice! OH, I KNEW I was dealing with highly flammable, possible explosive, dangerous stuff so knew what lines could NOT be crossed. There are some strict guidelines that must be followed, always. I like the "Only one powder at a time on the bench while loading" . Anyway, I read and played and played and read. I still have all my fingers, no fires, no blown up guns, A place on the bench, in plain view, for a couple of (non-damaging) mistakes so I'm reminded when ever I'm working there.

Do yourself a favor and read this thread...

Share your hand loading mistakes!

Share the dumb things you have seen or done so that others may learn and laugh.

www.northwestfirearms.com

Don't hesitate to bring unanswered questions you may have back to the reloading forum for any clarification needed to stop you from making the same mistakes.

Well I was an ASE certified master tech in another life and a patriot missile platform operator/maintainer before that. Now I'm just a handyman who does construction gigs where I find them. Fairly skilled with my hands with good comprehension.

I do plan on reloading alot in the future as I'm going to be training to shoot competition (3 gun). Really appreciate the time and advise from everyone here.[/QUOTE]

 

[Mikej]

Well I was an ASE certified master tech in another life and a patriot missile platform operator/maintainer before that. Now I'm just a handyman who does construction gigs where I find them. Fairly skilled with my hands with good comprehension.

I do plan on reloading alot in the future as I'm going to be training to shoot competition (3 gun). Really appreciate the time and advise from everyone here.

[/QUOTE]

Yeah, but can you change a tire on your car by the side of the road? Pull the carb off your mower, take it apart/clean, and put it back together? A have it run afterward? I'm only half joking there, I think. I couldn't do half what you've been doing, but I really took to reloading. I'm not sure it's nearly as complicated as the work you've done in your former life, but then I've known highly intelligent people with major degrees that don't have much going in the "Smarts" department. Know what I'm sayin'?

You'll do fine I'm sure. But do read that loading mistakes thread. Lotta' good info, on what NOT to do, in there.

 

[WTC]

[/QUOTE]



It's a brand new thing for me so that's why I'm asking. I learned to my main skills from school but have self taught a few other things over the years. Far from "smart" I'm just good with my hands. Was dragging trash home to take apart and "fix" since about 7yrs old......as with everything that's new it seems complicated but I'm sure I'll have it down in no time.

Was mainly just trying to get all the right gear to start vs upgrade later. I just find it easier to learn on one set of equipment

 

[Certaindeaf]

Man, you guys are tough! Finding this forum is the best thing I ever did, but a lot of y'all are making this way too complicated. From what I'm reading here I'm wondering how I EVER got this far without blowing myself up or making terrible undependable ammo?

You don't NEED an electric case prep center for $160.00 to load ammunition. It's a "Convenience" for when you find yourself loading a lot of of ammo.

You don't NEED an electronic scale for another C-note-plus to hand load ammunition. (Personally, I don't feel like I could ever trust an electronic scale they way I trust my own eye on a balance beam scale)

A primer pocket swager is only needed if you are RE-loading brass that has crimped in primers.

A case gauge for every caliber you load are not an absolute NEED , (at 20 bones + a pop) For shouldered rounds a comparaotor, and the guns chamber will do. And a case gauge is not needed for handgun. The guns barrel/chamber serves the same purpose.

I started with only the one book that came with MY RCBS "Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit". A Speer #14. I found down the line that another book is GOOD to have. More info sources helps a person understand how the different loads perform with various components.

Your powder thrower? The drum that you are given with it is the large drum. At least it was when I got mine in 2011. When you're loading hand gun cases you need to get the small drum for the powder thrower. The small drum makes it MUCH easier get exact powder measurements for the smaller hand gun cases. (You really should start out with hand gun cases. The straight wall brass is much easier to prep for loading and will give you valuable experience toward how things work in preparation for loading shouldered rounds.)

I have to disagree with @ron some. If you are going to load used brass for rifle you WILL need a case trimmer. But as far as pistol brass goes, rounds that have a "Roll" crimp need to be very close in length, +/- .003", other wise crimps won't be uniform.

Yeabut how can you get your swagger on without a swagger?

 

[Mikej]

Yeah, but can you change a tire on your car by the side of the road? Pull the carb off your mower, take it apart/clean, and put it back together? A have it run afterward? I'm only half joking there, I think. I couldn't do half what you've been doing, but I really took to reloading. I'm not sure it's nearly as complicated as the work you've done in your former life, but then I've known highly intelligent people with major degrees that don't have much going in the "Smarts" department. Know what I'm sayin'?

You'll do fine I'm sure. But do read that loading mistakes thread. Lotta' good info, on what NOT to do, in there.
[/QUOTE]
It's a brand new thing for me so that's why I'm asking. I learned to my main skills from school but have self taught a few other things over the years. Far from "smart" I'm just good with my hands. Was dragging trash home to take apart and "fix" since about 7yrs old......as with everything that's new it seems complicated but I'm sure I'll have it down in no time.

Was mainly just trying to get all the right gear to start vs upgrade later. I just find it easier to learn on one set of equipment
[/QUOTE]

Let me clarify something with regard to the powder thrower. The RCBS Uni-Flow has two drums available, a small and a large. It comes with the large drum standard. The small drum can be ordered online in the neighborhood of $35.00. Or you might luck into one elsewhere for less.

 

[WTC]

Yeah, but can you change a tire on your car by the side of the road? Pull the carb off your mower, take it apart/clean, and put it back together? A have it run afterward? I'm only half joking there, I think. I couldn't do half what you've been doing, but I really took to reloading. I'm not sure it's nearly as complicated as the work you've done in your former life, but then I've known highly intelligent people with major degrees that don't have much going in the "Smarts" department. Know what I'm sayin'?

You'll do fine I'm sure. But do read that loading mistakes thread. Lotta' good info, on what NOT to do, in there.

It's a brand new thing for me so that's why I'm asking. I learned to my main skills from school but have self taught a few other things over the years. Far from "smart" I'm just good with my hands. Was dragging trash home to take apart and "fix" since about 7yrs old......as with everything that's new it seems complicated but I'm sure I'll have it down in no time.

Was mainly just trying to get all the right gear to start vs upgrade later. I just find it easier to learn on one set of equipment
[/QUOTE]

Let me clarify something with regard to the powder thrower. The RCBS Uni-Flow has two drums available, a small and a large. It comes with the large drum standard. The small drum can be ordered online in the neighborhood of $35.00. Or you might luck into one elsewhere for less.
[/QUOTE]
Perfect thank you

 

[galvweld]

Records. Be diligent in recording each box or batch. Measure, count, weigh multiple times. Periodically weigh a loaded rounded. Know what the empty brass, primer, powder and bullet should weigh. Keep a log/journal of loads and don't mix batches of different loads. I have decades of hours at reloading bench and am extremely cautious. In fact just came in from gun room. BTW only mishap I ever experienced was a Corbon factory round through a Glock Model 23 in .40 caliber. Blew the top of the chamber out and locked the slide back. Even factory ammo can cause the occasional issue. Being redundant, but read and ask competent loaders for advice. Enjoy the learning, the potential of improved accuracy and the satisfaction of game animals harvested with your own ammunition.

 

[WTC]

Records. Be diligent in recording each box or batch. Measure, count, weigh multiple times. Periodically weigh a loaded rounded. Know what the empty brass, primer, powder and bullet should weigh. Keep a log/journal of loads and don't mix batches of different loads. I have decades of hours at reloading bench and am extremely cautious. In fact just came in from gun room. BTW only mishap I ever experienced was a Corbon factory round through a Glock Model 23 in .40 caliber. Blew the top of the chamber out and locked the slide back. Even factory ammo can cause the occasional issue. Being redundant, but read and ask competent loaders for advice. Enjoy the learning, the potential of improved accuracy and the satisfaction of game animals harvested with your own ammunition.

Thank you this is exactly the advice I need. Hadn't thought about records at all

 

[No_Regerts]

Thank you this is exactly the advice I need. Hadn't thought about records at all

Depending how deep you get into this, records will save a lot of uncertainty. I record each component, case length, overall length, load recipe, number of times fired, etc.

example:

270 Winchester
Brass: Hornady, 1x fired, trim length 2.530
Primer: CCI 200
Bullet: Nosler Partition, 140gr
Powder: H4831, Lot# 107041776-1234, 58gr
COAL: 3.395
Rifle: M70 SN# XXXXXXX

I print that recipe off and put it in the cartridge box. If any component changes, even by lot number, I verify the load is safe and accurate before hunting with it.