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I thought a taper crimp was just the process of removing the belling. If you had a roll crimp and tried to push the bullet deeper, that would be a problem.
It does remove the belling and presses the brass into the bullet, over tapering can crush the bullet or squish the case, both would be bad. Taper crimps are largely used for semi-auto ammo.
 
It does remove the belling and presses the brass into the bullet, over tapering can crush the bullet or squish the case, both would be bad. Taper crimps are largely used for semi-auto ammo.
I just watched a Youtube video on how to set up a 9mm RCBS taper crimp die. When setting up the dies, he seats the bullet to proper depth before setting the crimp, then backs off the seater plug. Then he sets the die to the proper crimp, he lowers the seater plug to touch the bullet to ensure proper seating depth while crimping. Once that die is set, how would the crimping effect on the bullet differ as the last bit of the crimping/seating process takes place whether it is from seating it to the proper overall length in one motion, or (because the locked die was itself inadvertently backed off) seating it to where it's almost fully seated, then screwing the die down to where it should be and finishing it? It just seems like the effect of the crimp mechanism and seating plug would be the same. The fact that you did it in two steps instead of one would seem irrelevant. It shouldn't be any more over tapered than it would have been otherwise.

To oversimply: If I took my primed/powder flared case and put a bullet on top and intentionally left my already properly set seating/tapering die a complete turn from being completely screwed down into the press, pressed the handle downward and partially seated/crimped the bullet, then raised the handle, screwed the die down tight and lowered the handle completely again, wouldn't I have the same result as if I had screwed the die down properly to begin with? It just seems like the effect of the die crimping and seating on the bullet would be the same.

Sorry if I'm being a pest, but I do want to learn. I have a very mathematical mind, but sometimes struggle with mechanics.
 
I just watched a Youtube video on how to set up a 9mm RCBS taper crimp die. When setting up the dies, he seats the bullet to proper depth before setting the crimp, then backs off the seater plug. Then he sets the die to the proper crimp, he lowers the seater plug to touch the bullet to ensure proper seating depth while crimping. Once that die is set, how would the crimping effect on the bullet differ as the last bit of the crimping/seating process takes place whether it is from seating it to the proper overall length in one motion, or (because the locked die was itself inadvertently backed off) seating it to where it's almost fully seated, then screwing the die down to where it should be and finishing it? It just seems like the effect of the crimp mechanism and seating plug would be the same. The fact that you did it in two steps instead of one would seem irrelevant. It shouldn't be any more over tapered than it would have been otherwise.

To oversimply: If I took my primed/powder flared case and put a bullet on top and intentionally left my already properly set seating/tapering die a complete turn from being completely screwed down into the press, pressed the handle downward and partially seated/crimped the bullet, then raised the handle, screwed the die down tight and lowered the handle completely again, wouldn't I have the same result as if I had screwed the die down properly to begin with? It just seems like the effect of the die crimping and seating on the bullet would be the same.

Sorry if I'm being a pest, but I do want to learn. I have a very mathematical mind, but sometimes struggle with mechanics.
The majority of the time that cases get squished or over crimped is when setting up the die. As for the die setup there are different ways that people do it. It is possible to over crimp the brass with the method you listed, all it takes is just 1 too many rotations and to not notice it. I'm more on the analytical/mechanical side myself. The way I do it prevents over crimping.
If the bullet is seated to the desired depth first you can use that to guage how much you need to adjust the die or pin or both. Of course you can also remove and reset the pin when setting the crimp.
It never hurts to ask more questions, lack of knowledge is what hurts(figurative & literal). I do a lot of my die setting on a single stage press and have others that I set for AP press.

Forgot to add: sometimes lock rings do come loose and you have to reset things or when setting up on a new press, you might need to reset.
 
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Bobby that should work, but when things get out of adjustment and then you re-adjust I believe in the mantra "trust but verify" to make sure you are back to getting the results you wanted.
 
Sorry if I'm being a pest, but I do want to learn. I have a very mathematical mind, but sometimes struggle with mechanics.
Not at all.

Where the issue is, is brass length. Who trims 9mm? Answer: NO ONE. Well maybe an extreme anal reloader?

If you adjust your seat/crimp die to a piece of brass of a given length and then encounter longer and shorter brass in the seating/crimping stage, the firmness of the crimp will be different among the different lengths. A longer piece will also have the bullet seated further out, than a shorter piece of brass. Because, the taper of the die hits brass before it would on a shorter piece of brass. (I've loaded a butt-load of 9mm on this rock Chucker). When that's the case I give the stem a 1/8th turn, or so, in to get the OAL I want.
 
You're also wise to trim brass that uses a roll crimp for consistent length. .38/.357, .44 mag, lever gun tube fed calibers.
 
Here's an odd one. I didn't actually reload it, per se, just made up a dummy for my meager collection.

I always pick odds and ends out of the cigar boxes and cans of random old cartridges and cases at gun shows. I found this empty case for a dime, severely tarnished and full of dirt. It had obviously laid in the dirt for decades, an early balloon-head black-powder case with no head stamp.

It took me quite a while to figure out what it even was. Worthless of course, but I cleaned it up with 600-grit sandpaper, and put a bullet in it just for fun. Here it is next to a 5.56. Teddy Roosevelt would approve.

IMG_4538[1].jpg

Edit: I forgot to mention the caliber- .45-75 Winchester, for the "Centennial" rifle, Model 1876, one of Teddy Roosevelt's favorites. I'm going with the story that someone must have picked this up out of the dirt in Yellowstone a few decades ago, where it had lain since Teddy shot a grizzly with it back in the day. Well it is possible...
 
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77gr SMKs… heavy goodness
The best bullet that is loaded to magazine length. IMHO
For .223, does it make a big difference to sort? I can see if you're shooting long range or competing, but I didn't think that Milspec ammo was that important to sort.
Yes very much. I have found Winchester brass works better than LC
If I get an urge….. I wouldn't mind spending a few bucks on a good barrel in .223. I intended on that cartridge being my first bolt gun. That's before I hand loaded. Then I got swept away with heavier bullets. After loading I've gotten a better perspective of real potential… no matter the cartridge. 200 yards is still pretty stinking far.
The .223 is a great target round.
Confirming 223 loads for my competition Highpower Service Rifle. I shot only one 5 shot group of 77 SMK and
one 5 shot group of 52 SMK. I am sure if I shot more groups of each I could obtain a better group. But for
Highpwer competition that is a waist of barrel life and components. This is not a bench rest gun, it is a
"Across the Course" rifle (200-300-600 yards). A 20 inch CLE chambered floated Krieger barrel , 4.5 pound
trigger and 4.5 power Leupold scope.
1679498697350.png
 
You must wear sunglasses when you load. That brass is SHIIIIINEEE!
Once you go steel pins, you don't go back.
I did recently do a couple large batches in my CV 2001 to get the initial range crud off them to size and decap before the final total cleaning because it was too cold outside to be playing with cold water out of the hose to rinse them. After doing so I was immediately chasing pieces of media around my garage. I came up with a new system to rinse. Hot water into the tumbler and dump it down the toilet. Just can't dump that nasty water down my sink drain. It seemed a lot quicker and I think the brass is actually cleaner. Of course I will probably rinse on my front lawn when it warms up because that is my favorite way to water the grass.
 
Once you go steel pins, you don't go back.
Seems I've heard this ^ somewhere before. :rolleyes: Wet cleaning is there in the back of my mind.

I bought a bag of rouge treated walnut from you at a show some time ago. I finally ran a couple hundred .30-30 pieces through it. They were fairly old and a little off bright brass color. Boy-Howdy those shells cleaned up to wonderful bright brass! With a bunch of red rouge in them. :( But I swear after an hour or so in clean walnut they are as bright on the outside as wet-pin cleaned brass. And the majority of rouge is gone from the inside.
 
Seems I've heard this ^ somewhere before. :rolleyes: Wet cleaning is there in the back of my mind.

I bought a bag of rouge treated walnut from you at a show some time ago. I finally ran a couple hundred .30-30 pieces through it. They were fairly old and a little off bright brass color. Boy-Howdy those shells cleaned up to wonderful bright brass! With a bunch of red rouge in them. :( But I swear after an hour or so in clean walnut they are as bright on the outside as wet-pin cleaned brass. And the majority of rouge is gone from the inside.
Sweet steel pins they will be as clean on the inside as on the outside. I don't care how good I did them in the dry media there just aren't enough dryer sheets to actually clean them and remove the dirty film off them so my dry fingers would never end up coming clean. Very important to my wife. Ya know happy wife. ......
 
RE : Post 4,152
"Broken Press"

Last night......I got back to the LEE M1000. Repaired it and loaded up about 250 rounds of 9mm.
And yesterday......I ordered more "parts" for it. FYI......LEE has replaced the old with a "new and improved" model.

Aloha, Mark
 
Here's an odd one. I didn't actually reload it, per se, just made up a dummy for my meager collection.

I always pick odds and ends out of the cigar boxes and cans of random old cartridges and cases at gun shows. I found this empty case for a dime, severely tarnished and full of dirt. It had obviously laid in the dirt for decades, an early balloon-head black-powder case with no head stamp.

It took me quite a while to figure out what it even was. Worthless of course, but I cleaned it up with 600-grit sandpaper, and put a bullet in it just for fun. Here it is next to a 5.56. Teddy Roosevelt would approve.

View attachment 1388573

Edit: I forgot to mention the caliber- .45-75 Winchester, for the "Centennial" rifle, Model 1876, one of Teddy Roosevelt's favorites. I'm going with the story that someone must have picked this up out of the dirt in Yellowstone a few decades ago, where it had lain since Teddy shot a grizzly with it back in the day. Well it is possible...
That is a great story to tell to your grandkids. I approve. Grandpa should tell tall tales :p
 

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