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Reloaded 45 230 gr Hornady xtp. Didn't tighten my lock ring down enough, half of the hundred ended up at 1.261, little long guess I'm pulling even though they pass plunk test. Do I need to resize brass now?
Forgot to add: as for resizing you shouldn't need to unless you crimped them. But this depends also on the amount of crimp used. But if you're unsure than run them through the sizer if you're concerned about it, just remove the decap pin first.
Do what makes you feel comfortable and safe, nothing wrong with being cautious when reloading.
 
If you didn't crimp them you could rerun them through the seater die to the desired seating depth. Otherwise if they load in the mag, chamber and cycle than you should be fine.
I was wondering the same thing. If the seater die wasn't screwed all the way down, it seems like simply screwing it all the way down and re-running the longer shells through would give the exact same results as if the die had been completely screwed down to begin with.
 
I was wondering the same thing. If the seater die wasn't screwed all the way down, it seems like simply screwing it all the way down and re-running the longer shells through would give the exact same results as if the die had been completely screwed down to begin with.
You'll want to re-crimp after just to be sure pushing the bullet down didn't push the crimp back out.
 
I was wondering the same thing. If the seater die wasn't screwed all the way down, it seems like simply screwing it all the way down and re-running the longer shells through would give the exact same results as if the die had been completely screwed down to begin with.
Yeah, I did the same thing when I first started loading 45acp. I made and keep a dummy rounds for each bullet I use for when I need to reset the seater pin and/or the die. In fairness I don't normally crimp my 45s.
If you wanted a light crimp you can set the seater pin to the depth desired than back it off a half turn than lower the die a half turn.
 
Reloaded 45 230 gr Hornady xtp. Didn't tighten my lock ring down enough, half of the hundred ended up at 1.261, little long guess I'm pulling even though they pass plunk test. Do I need to resize brass now?
Lee Dies? If so.....

You'll be glad you did! :s0155::s0151:
 
You'll want to re-crimp after just to be sure pushing the bullet down didn't push the crimp back out.
Is that if he's using a separate crimp die? I'm used to seating and crimping with the same die. What I'm envisioning with my setup, tightening the die would simply have the effect of pushing the bullet further down and crimping it tighter to what it would have been had the die been tightened in the first place. As I've pointed out, my experience with tapered dies is somewhat limited. I do have a separate Lee taper die with my Hornady .380 acp set of dies, but for .45, .40 and 9mm I only have RCBS carbide 3-die sets with the taper built into the seating die.
 
Is that if he's using a separate crimp die? I'm used to seating and crimping with the same die. What I'm envisioning with my setup, tightening the die would simply have the effect of pushing the bullet further down and crimping it tighter to what it would have been had the die been tightened in the first place. As I've pointed out, my experience with tapered dies is somewhat limited. I do have a separate Lee taper die with my Hornady .380 acp set of dies, but for .45, .40 and 9mm I only have RCBS carbide 3-die sets with the taper built into the seating die.
How you get there is how you get there. Some how, some way it just needs to be right.:s0104:
 
Is that if he's using a separate crimp die? I'm used to seating and crimping with the same die. What I'm envisioning with my setup, tightening the die would simply have the effect of pushing the bullet further down and crimping it tighter to what it would have been had the die been tightened in the first place. As I've pointed out, my experience with tapered dies is somewhat limited. I do have a separate Lee taper die with my Hornady .380 acp set of dies, but for .45, .40 and 9mm I only have RCBS carbide 3-die sets with the taper built into the seating die.
In that case you wouldn't lower the die, you'd only lower the seater pin.
 
Could I just seat them deeper and re crimp?
I'd say yes.
I'm assuming you are seating and crimping at the same time.
It's a balance between adjustment of the seater stem and the crimping taper of the die body. Realize that it doesn't take much felt resistance at the bottom of the downstroke to do a proper taper crimp.
 
How you get there is how you get there. Some how, some way it just needs to be right.:s0104:
Okay. My last poor attempt at explaining myself. :p

What would be the difference between having the die fully screwed down and then not quite pushing the case (with bullet) all the way up, lowering it, then pushing it back up all the way, versus not having the die screwed down, pushing the case (with bullet) all the way up, lowering it, screwing the die down, then raising the case (with bullet) back up all the way?

It seems like both would result in the same thing = the bullet and crimp being set where originally intended.

This all makes sense in my mind, probably not anyone else's. I'll bow out now. :s0152:
 
I'd say yes.
I'm assuming you are seating and crimping at the same time.
It's a balance between adjustment of the seater stem and the crimping taper of the die body. Realize that it doesn't take much felt resistance at the bottom of the downstroke to do a proper taper crimp.
I'm crimping at station four Dillon 550.
 
Okay. My last poor attempt at explaining myself. :p

What would be the difference between having the die fully screwed down and then not quite pushing the case (with bullet) all the way up, lowering it, then pushing it back up all the way, versus not having the die screwed down, pushing the case (with bullet) all the way up, lowering it, screwing the die down, then raising the case (with bullet) back up all the way?

It seems like both would result in the same thing = the bullet and crimp being set where originally intended.

This all makes sense in my mind, probably not anyone else's. I'll bow out now. :s0152:
I'm going to guess, you're referring to the seater pin in the die not the die itself? Lowering the die with already having a crimp level set would increase the crimp or squish the case. If you are talking about the seater pin than it should work like that, in theory.
 
I'm crimping at station four Dillon 550.
I'm a die hard single stage guy, and always will be. I can't see why the info put up here to solve the problem wouldn't be the same on any press. Personally? If it were me? I'd shoot those long rounds as long as they chambered! We're talking .45acp running in the neighborhood of 21,000 psi. Not 6.5 something-or-other at 52,000 psi. And you're not talking too short, so pressure spike isn't an issue.
 
I'm going to guess, you're referring to the seater pin in the die not the die itself? Lowering the die with already having a crimp level set would increase the crimp or squish the case. If you are talking about the seater pin than it should work like that, in theory.
Not really. What I'm trying to say is when (on a single-stage press using a die that seats and crimps while seating) not pushing the handle all the way down would result in the bullet being pushed in and possibly the crimp starting. Raising the handle, then pushing the handle all the way down would have the same effect of proper seat/crimp as if you had pushed the handle all the way down to begin with. In the same scenario, not screwing the die all the way down and pushing the handle all the way down, then raising the handle, screwing the die down tight, then pushing the handle all the way down, would also have the same desired result.

I thought a taper crimp was just the process of removing the belling. If you had a roll crimp and tried to push the bullet deeper, that would be a problem.
 
I thought a taper crimp was just the process of removing the belling. If you had a roll crimp and tried to push the bullet deeper, that would be a problem.
I see what your saying above this ^.

And your right, as far as I'm concerned, about just removing the "bell". I don't see "neck tension" changing because you push the bullet in by .020", or what ever.

If it plunks/chambers shoot it!
 

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