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What do you plan on doing with the bolt action rifle.... hunting big game, shooting varmints, long range target shooting, short range target shooting, truck gun, etc. What's your budget? What ammo do you have access to. All these factors will determine your first bolt action rifle.
I don't hunt....but I'd like something ready for Varmints, so I don't need long range power. Just paper at 200yrds for now. I'd be quite happy to do well at that range. Have reloading dies for both....Have few different grains of.223 bullets and brass...and powder for both.. will have to work on.30 bullets and brass.
Budget $400-700 depending on what it is. 200 yards ain't asking for much I think. So ideally at the low end of budget. I'll work on my own scope.
Doesn't NEED to be polymer or wood or laminate.... I hear the term "building" these.... be cool to add my touch eventually. I guess it's stock, optics, bipod, cheek rest...
I hear it's hit or miss on accuracy in budget rifle barrels, so I guess I'd be trying to find a solid barrel.
What are you thinking?
 
Spent the afternoon looking for something, which always turns into cleaning up. Looked up a part I'd been meaning to order for a broken chop saw which was nice to get done. Never did find the items I was looking for, and did find a bag of 100 once fired 300 blackout brass I didn't know I had. It was in a strange place so I'll guess the wife did me a favor and put it away for me one day...

Anyway, I think this might be the first time I can recall where I enjoyed fully processing a batch of rifle brass. Great to have this at the ready!

1614496082574.png
 
I don't hunt....but I'd like something ready for Varmints, so I don't need long range power. Just paper at 200yrds for now. I'd be quite happy to do well at that range. Have reloading dies for both....Have few different grains of.223 bullets and brass...and powder for both.. will have to work on.30 bullets and brass.
Budget $400-700 depending on what it is. 200 yards ain't asking for much I think. So ideally at the low end of budget. I'll work on my own scope.
Doesn't NEED to be polymer or wood or laminate.... I hear the term "building" these.... be cool to add my touch eventually. I guess it's stock, optics, bipod, cheek rest...
I hear it's hit or miss on accuracy in budget rifle barrels, so I guess I'd be trying to find a solid barrel.
What are you thinking?
Since you already have dies and components for 223, I would definitely stick to the 223. In a bolt action with a longer barrel, the 223 is very accurate. Personally, I have a Weatherby Vanguard in 223. It's well built and not overly expensive. I'm not sure about availability and price today. Pay attention to the barrel twist rate and bullet weight. Unlike reloading for your AR15, you could fire form your brass for your bolt action, then, instead of full length sizing your brass, you could strictly neck size the brass for that rifle. This will increase the accuracy even more.
 
Since you already have dies and components for 223, I would definitely stick to the 223. In a bolt action with a longer barrel, the 223 is very accurate. Personally, I have a Weatherby Vanguard in 223. It's well built and not overly expensive. I'm not sure about availability and price today. Pay attention to the barrel twist rate and bullet weight. Unlike reloading for your AR15, you could fire form your brass for your bolt action, then, instead of full length sizing your brass, you could strictly neck size the brass for that rifle. This will increase the accuracy even more.
Well cool...
Thank you for insight...
neck sizing and fire forming on student study list.
THX Again
 
These took a long while to get here... but adding reloading abilities to guns I already have. I know I'm late to the game on .300 blk out..... they've been popular for awhile now but I do want to slow my shooting down. Now how to decide my first bolt rifle? .223, .300 blk ?

View attachment 834005

Lee dies are fine from my experience. Those lock rings? Not so much. Only have lee dies for handgun. I get Hornady lock rings for the sizing and seating dies, make tings MUCH easier. I leave the expander die with the Lee lock ring.

With inside of necks cleaned and use of a carbide expander ball....it's not necessary to lube the inside of case necks.
If you using a bolt or single shot, use a Redding bushing die and that will not require lubing inside of case necks. However, you will need to keep ammo/brass separated for the respective rifle.

I don't know if Hornady dies come with the "titanium nitride" expander ball too? I will presume they do. With that said, I "Feel" the resistance on the upstroke might just be enough to pull the shoulder some. I'm fresh to loading shouldered rounds but have a good grasp on the process. I've used a comparator here and there on the rifle brass and have not found any that were affected by the expander ball. I HAVE been doing straight wall for about 10 years.
 
Clean brass is the last thing I was waiting for on my first loads..... my tumbler is still a week out; but I got a loaner....... can't talk any crap about my father in-law today ...!

How much brass can I fit in here?
And what, over night?

I'd say about 70 (1/2 of what I have) Beowulf cases in now. Looks to be similar size to the on I ordered-13 liters.

1D745DA7-D22B-4ACF-9272-965AF3EF3A04.jpeg
 
Clean brass is the last thing I was waiting for on my first loads..... my tumbler is still a week out; but I got a loaner....... can't talk any crap about my father in-law today ...!

How much brass can I fit in here?
And what, over night?

I'd say about 70 (1/2 of what I have) Beowulf cases in now. Looks to be similar size to the on I ordered-13 liters.

View attachment 834795

I'll get 'er going and dump brass in until it just barely mo-tates. The brass-on-brass action helps polish too. I use a couple teaspoons of liquid car wax in the media. Get it running WITHOUT brass and drizzle the car wax in and let it run for 15 minutes or so before adding brass.
 
I had a tendency to overload mine back when I dry tumbled. If it was still tumbling, it was good. :)

I'd use about a cap full of Nu-Finish car polish and a little bit of mineral spirits to thin it and keep the dust down. Like Mikej says, drizzle it on before adding brass.
 
Clean brass is the last thing I was waiting for on my first loads..... my tumbler is still a week out; but I got a loaner....... can't talk any crap about my father in-law today ...!

How much brass can I fit in here?
And what, over night?

I'd say about 70 (1/2 of what I have) Beowulf cases in now. Looks to be similar size to the on I ordered-13 liters.

View attachment 834795
if that size is comparable to the lyman 1200 (bout a gallon) it will take about a half a 3lb. coffee can of brass with just a bit more media than pictured. i run 250 223's per batch. for about 2 hours. some come out shiny, others don't, but they are clean. +1 on the liquid car polish. i use nu finish.
 
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if that size is comparable to the lyman 1200 (bout a gallon) it will take about a half a 3lb. coffee can of brass with just a bit more media than pictured. i run 250 223's per batch. for about 2 hours. some come out shiny, others don't, but they are clean. +1 on the liquid car polish. i use nu finish.
I found a penny in the media too. Is that a thing..... good luck? Or was it just a penny in there? I left it in there... probably foolish but maybe I'll start a thing.
 
Separating tumbled brass... woohoo.
I could technically load tonight but little nervous now. Probably won't have time tonight.

Somehow forgot to turn the tumbler on before going to work on the last batch of 12.7/42mm.....will get 'em.

Just making sure all the media is out of flash holes (gonna tumble first now on), figured out the air compressor works best.

De burring some....but need to measure right?

Checking head stamps for potential.300 blk conversion. Thx for the right brass checklist!!

And just enjoying the shine.

FA16BEF5-E7C5-4086-80CA-1E75651EABA0.jpeg
 
Separating tumbled brass... woohoo.
I could technically load tonight but little nervous now. Probably won't have time tonight.

Somehow forgot to turn the tumbler on before going to work on the last batch of 12.7/42mm.....will get 'em.

Just making sure all the media is out of flash holes (gonna tumble first now on), figured out the air compressor works best.

De burring some....but need to measure right?

Checking head stamps for potential.300 blk conversion. Thx for the right brass checklist!!

And just enjoying the shine.

View attachment 835522
Brass is lookin good! Run them through your sizing die first, then check for proper length. Do you have a case trimmer yet?
 
Brass is lookin good! Run them through your sizing die first, then check for proper length. Do you have a case trimmer yet?
I'm waiting on a trimmer die for press ("value trimmer")for Beowulf and a "quick trim" die/anvil thing .223....300blk— both from LEE....

Think I'm gonna add the polish to my vibrator and walnut when it shows up.... just borrowed my dads corn cob.... clean but dusty dull. Maybe old media?

I'm measuring now.... book says max 1.650 on case length; and I'm getting 1.652-3-4... what should I be setting the trim for..lower than max? Isn't gonna stretch after next firing? .....so 1.647-8-9??? Or just 1.650
 
Playing with Longshot in 45 Colt. Ruger Blackhawk 4 5/8" 12.3 grains of Long Shot. Hard cast gas check with a BH of 22. I'm getting very uniform velocities. I did not set the phone app to compute ft-lbs. My Chono syncs to my phone via blue tooth and allows saving of my shooting files on the phone. If I wish I can add group size and a photo of group to the file.

Description: 45 colt 300 gr
Temp: 54 °F
BP: 1019.00 inHg
Altitude: 0.00
# FPS FT-LBS PF
6 1101 0.00 0.00
5 1105 0.00 0.00
4 1109 0.00 0.00
3 1106 0.00 0.00
2 1102 0.00 0.00
1 1097 0.00 0.00
Average: 1103.3 FPS
SD: 4.2 FPS
Min: 1097 FPS
Max: 1109 FPS
Spread: 12 FPS
Shot/sec: 0.1
True MV: 1103 FPS
 
A quick question for anyone...
When trimming brass:
Do I trim under max length published in book? Thinking the case will stretch again, or do I trim to exact published data?
Factory ammo fired once saved brass..... length measures 0.002-3-4 over max in book. I figured I'd trim it to at least spec; since this is my first time. But is that really stretching or should I be watching for0.01 increases?
I'm using calipers... I don't have a gauge plate yet.
THX
 
A quick question for anyone...
When trimming brass:
Do I trim under max length published in book? Thinking the case will stretch again, or do I trim to exact published data?
Factory ammo fired once saved brass..... length measures 0.002-3-4 over max in book. I figured I'd trim it to at least spec; since this is my first time. But is that really stretching or should I be watching for0.01 increases?
I'm using calipers... I don't have a gauge plate yet.
THX
Trim to trim length specified in reloading manual. Trimming to max case length may result in a need to retrim after you have only fired the case one time after reloading it.
 
You must have an older reloading book. Newer books show max. length and also show a trim length. The trim length would be .010 shorter than max length. For instance, if max length is 2.500, trim length would be 2.490. Make sure to check length after you resize your brass. Give yourself .002 tolerance plus or minus. you will go nuts trying to get them right on the money. Be sure to debur both inside and outside the neck.
 
You must have an older reloading book. Newer books show max. length and also show a trim length. The trim length would be .010 shorter than max length. For instance, if max length is 2.500, trim length would be 2.490. Make sure to check length after you resize your brass. Give yourself .002 tolerance plus or minus. you will go nuts trying to get them right on the money. Be sure to debur both inside and outside the neck.
Thank you...
My Lyman book suggests that I shouldn't see new brass at published specs—- MAX —- and if it does exceed I'd need to trim. I'm just having problems finding info on my 12.7/42mm case. Everything is 1.650— first time firings mostly 1.65+. I'll look a little deeper, but 0.01 makes sense.
 

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