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Finally got around to refurbishing some jerry cans. Cost more for three gaskets and a new spout than the cans did ($5 each) a few years ago.

jerry.jpg

Two USMC from the 80s, a DOT from the 90s. Used the vinegar and bb method to get rust off the inside. Then discovered: flash rust. Basically cleaned up well, bare metal, then within a couple of minutes a film of rust re- formed. Duck ducking more seems have to do it, rinse, then quickly slosh around some gas/oil mix inside to make it not rust.

Question for anyone who knows: how does rust (not chunks, literally just a film) affect gasoline? Reading it seems like only have to worry about clogging, but if anyone knows anything else appreciate any info.
 
Finally got around to refurbishing some jerry cans. Cost more for three gaskets and a new spout than the cans did ($5 each) a few years ago.

View attachment 1085464

Two USMC from the 80s, a DOT from the 90s. Used the vinegar and bb method to get rust off the inside. Then discovered: flash rust. Basically cleaned up well, bare metal, then within a couple of minutes a film of rust re- formed. Duck ducking more seems have to do it, rinse, then quickly slosh around some gas/oil mix inside to make it not rust.

Question for anyone who knows: how does rust (not chunks, literally just a film) affect gasoline? Reading it seems like only have to worry about clogging, but if anyone knows anything else appreciate any info.
Can you fill a modern day vehicle with those spouts? Mine ended up breaking before I could ever test it.
 
Don't know. Latest vehicles have adapters that you insert, then pour through the adapter. I think it'll work with that. I try to use a 1 or 2.5 gal anyway (yeah, xfering from the 5 gal... ) when fueling anything except the generator. Even for that try to keep a couple of smaller cans. Manipulating the 5 gal is a pita.

adapter.jpg
 
Rust is an issue. In gasoline fuel system, use a number of filters and have spares as rust will eventually plug them up. For fuel injection systems, especially direct injection in many current model cars, get a high end filtering system before the fuel enters the injection system - the system should have replaceable filters and you should have spares.

For all diesel fuel systems, any contamination can ruin the diesel high pressure system as they run extremely close tolerances to get the high pressure. Particulates can score the pumps and injectors, as can water.
 
Got 1K rounds of 154 gr 7.62x39 ammo delivered today - 800 rounds barely fits in a .50 cal ammo can.

If the weather warms up and doesn't rain, I may go see how the POI compares to ~123 gr ammo. I know it drops faster, but within 300 yards it seems somewhat comparable with regards to trajectory.

About 100-200 fps slower from the muzzle than .30-30 150 gr ammo, but would probably be better than 123 gr ammo on larger animals and out at 100-300 yards the SP does better than the RN/FN of most .30-30 ammo. I have a CZ 527 which would make a good hunting carbine with either weight bullet.

Also got another meds order. Filling up the bottles - one is almost full, others half full (smaller pills and less overlap) - so I got a minimum of about 6 months of meds, and a couple are about one year's worth - especially the one I am not supposed to stop taking due to side effects. So that's good IMO.

Now I need to get some subsonic ammo for 7.62x39
 
I can comment on the gas storage.

1st) Don't cheap out on the cans. Buy metal Jerry Nato cans of good quality. There is a natural rise at the top of the can that is used for air so that the petrol can expand and contract with the heat.

2nd) They say to keep your filled gas cans in an outbuilding. I don't have one so I make sure that there is ventilation in the room.

3rd) https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp is the link to stations which sell ethanol. Buy that. It costs more, it's worth more.

4th) Use a fuel stablizer. Project Farm is evaluating that stuff, but until we see head to head tests, Stabil Storage or PRI-G are 2 well known and well regarded stabilizers. Non-ethonol Gas can go bad with in 6 months. Those 2 should get you 2 years of storage. Add stablizer before you put the gas in the metal Jerry can although PRI-G says you can add it after as well if needed.

5th) Zip tie a tag to the top with the date you put the gas in. Rotate it annually, you can dump it in a vehicle and then go refil it up. In case you miss the date and I can attest that the 360 days will in reality come and go before you are aware, you should still have good gas for some time.
 
What I've done for years without a problem:
  • Plastic cans
  • Sta-Bil added to the fuel on refill.
  • Duct tape and a marker. On refill, tear off the old tape, put a new piece of tape on the can, write the YYMM of refill, and add "+SB" so I know I put Sta-Bil in there.
  • Stored in an out building.
  • Use/rotate the fuel within 18-24 months.
I am considering some metal cans since the caps on the newer plastic cans are terrible. I've replaced them with different caps via Amazon for now.
 
A task for myself this weekend - prioritize what else I want to do or acquire where it might be more expensive to do so in 6-12 months.

This is after reading this article yesterday where the Gov intends to change the formula for measuring inflation.


 
Bought a minivan…
A task for myself this weekend - prioritize what else I want to do or acquire where it might be more expensive to do so in 6-12 months.

This is after reading this article yesterday where the Gov intends to change the formula for measuring inflation.


Just bought a minivan and financed it at 2% for 60 months. Laughed thinking that in 2-3 years the money I will be paying toward it will be worth significantly less, but my payment will be the same.
 
Figured out what I'm going to invest my saved cash in once the Fed loses control of interest rates, the market crashes and inflation ramps up even more; hint - companies and ETFs that own tangible assets, make tangible goods and are located everywhere.
 
Wordly preppers should be excavating dirt for the soon approaching day when everyone runs to their caves, bunkers and among the rocks of the mountains and say to those places, "…hide us from the face of the One seated on the throne, and from the wrath of the One not allowed to be mentioned at NWFA.

On the other hand, the real preppers know there is only one true way to prep.
 
Wordly preppers should be excavating dirt for the soon approaching day when everyone runs to their caves, bunkers and among the rocks of the mountains and say to those places, "…hide us from the face of the One seated on the throne, and from the wrath of the One not allowed to be mentioned at NWFA.

On the other hand, the real preppers know there is only one true way to prep.
Voldemort?
 

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