Weight distribution on a long winter trip

[rick49]

ok you truck driver types with real world experience.
Traveling to OK in early Feb. expecting snow/ice on the drive.
Got chains.
Driving an F-350 dually diesel 2 WD crew cab and towing a 13 ft tandem trailer (8000 lbs).
Got about 1500 lbs ammo going over the rear axel. A canopy on the bed with another 500 lbs +/- on top of that.
The cab will have some 500 lbs more weight.
Am I distributing my weight properly? Trailer has electric brakes.
What say ya'll (practicing my southern lingo)
Thanks

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[11Charlie]

What's going in the trailer?

 

[SA Shooter]

A lot of this depends on what is going in the trailer and how the weight is distributed. You want more over and in front of the trailer axles rather than on the back end. Too much weight in the back will cause a dangerous tail wag.

Is the ammo going in the trailer? That singular load over and ever so slightly towards the front will go a long way towards balancing the load. If it is going over the truck axle, put it towards the front as well to avoid too much weight at the rear of the truck due to tongue weight and bed weight being too close to one another.

 

[Tilos]

"13 ft tandem trailer (8000 lbs)."
Flatbed or Cargo ??
Windy/slippery cargo...park it!
I start out around 5a.m. and quit at dark, everyday.
I've made the trip from Portland/Florida, mid-winter, 3 times, not fun.
Running cruise control and hitting ice on a bridge, things got busy.
Smaller truck/cargo trailer rig though,

 

[rick49]

What's going in the trailer?

The trailer is a self contained 5 ft dia wood burning pizza oven with on board h/c water commercial refer sink.

 

[SA Shooter]

Doesn't look too bad at all. As long as it isn't overloaded on either side of the axle, side to side or front to rear, you should be OK.

Take it slow.

 

[Tilos]

View attachment 330848 View attachment 330847
The trailer is a self contained 5 ft dia wood burning pizza oven with on board h/c water commercial refer sink.

Thanks for the pic, sounds like the equipment inside makes for a high center on the trailer, plus the trailer floor looks high too (no wheel wells).
The hookup looks right, did you shrink wrap the trailer for the trip? nice touch.
I'd get familiar with the location of the trailer brake controller, maybe keep a finger on it while driving

 

[rick49]

The truck will have a canapy

 

[HB of CJ]

Stop at the scales and weight each axle end. Then estimate the load weight and figure how that will affect each axle end. Fun and easy. Basic math. Having the truck heavier and the trailer lighter might be good.

 

[rick49]

Stop at the scales and weight each axle end. Then estimate the load weight and figure how that will affect each axle end. Fun and easy. Basic math. Having the truck heavier and the trailer lighter might be good.

Thanks will weigh it to see how I did loading. I am planning on the truck coming in at about 15000 and trailer at 8000. Don't want the trailer pushing the truck lol.

 

[rick49]

Thanks for the pic, sounds like the equipment inside makes for a high center on the trailer, plus the trailer floor looks high too (no wheel wells).
The hookup looks right, did you shrink wrap the trailer for the trip? nice touch.
I'd get familiar with the location of the trailer brake controller, maybe keep a finger on it while driving

This is a concession trailer the sides and the front and back fold up and lock. It is meant to be worked from the ground so everything is pretty low profile. Just had new brakes on the front back was fine.

 

[mjbskwim]

Didn't read but the op,so if I'm redundant,oh well
I would put the majority of the weight on those 4 tires on that truck. Those are the main drivers and it gives weight to the truck for stopping.
And keep heavy to the front. Put too much towards the rear and you lighten up the front wheels
If you put too much in the trailer,even as heavy as the truck is,it could push the truck if the tires lock up. And it could also lighten up the front of you don't load the trailer even.
After wrecking my truck coming over here, I would definitely pay the price for some studded tires. I had new tires but I was loaded way heavy. Snow and ice and bad depth perception was my problem.
Good luck and drive safe

 

[rick49]

Thanks to all who responded it is greatly appreciated.
Rick

 

[Kruel J]

Tongue weight is 10-12% of the rolling weight on most trailers. What is your receiver rated at. I'm sure the truck can pull a house off it's foundation, but if you are exceeding the tongue weight rating of your receiver you NEED a weight distributing hitch. Period. Convo me if you have more questions. I'm in the "industry" and I know what I'm talking about. I've seen catastrophic failures where a WD hitch was not used when needed!

 

[rick49]

Ill look when the light is better. When I had the trailer built I insisted on the hitch system be over built.

 

[Kruel J]

So did you upgrade your truck-mounted receiver? Or is it factory?

 

[rick49]

Factory

 

[rick49]

Factory

I again appreciate your imput. The trailer is new and worth 3x the truck.

 

[PBinWA]

An anti-sway bar isn't too expensive if you don't already have one and adds a little piece of mind.

If you don't have a weight distributing hitch then add that too - it can make a big difference for drive-ability.

Like Tilos, said make sure you know how to use your brake controller. Sometimes having the trailer as an anchor slowing you down is useful.

 

[Kruel J]

Factory

Well based on your pictures your truck looks to be a 2000-2002. The factory receiver on those was generally a Class III hitch rated at 6000/600lb pull/tongue weight and roughly twice that with a weight distribution hitch. Please look at the decal and post up what it says for your truck. Without a WD hitch, you will NOT do well on a 9500/1000lb-ish trailer.