JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
Messages
1,421
Reactions
2,514
Sometimes thriftiness doesn't pay. As a dedicated "recycler" of abandoned brass, I pride myself on saving money and even making an effort to make it look nice in my reloads. However, I recently ran across some very pretty once fired brass on the range that made me pay in time and aggravation. Apparently all that glitters is NOT gold! The brass in question was factory fired and looked really nice, first in 9mm, where it had such small flash holes it bent the decapping pin AND ROD in my RCBS Universal Decap Die. RCBS replaced the complete rod with pin under warranty, and amazingly had the new one in my mailbox 4 days after my email request. (They are outstanding!)
So, today, I installed my new rod into my Decap die and started knocking some primers out of some .223 range brass. It was working great and then I noticed some particularly shiny brass that had a suspicious head stamp: 1K 21. It sounded familiar, being the head stamp on the 9mm brass that killed my previous decap pin and rod. So, recalling that years ago, I had encountered some IMG brass in .223 that also had small flash holes and RCBS had generously sent me some small Decap pins for my RCBS .223 Neck Sizing Die, I cleverly thought I would outsmart this 1K 21 .223 brass by using the small decapping pin neck sizing die to punch out the primers, and then full length size after liquid tumbling. Here is the result:
3A7B66A3-C1E7-4B00-B069-819E5C7444C4.jpeg 62ABC744-2A3F-4399-A7B3-68D9B19DB64C.jpeg
Yes, that is the small Decap pin stuck in the flash hole of the 1K 21 .223 case. 🤬
So I managed to avoid this:
A3C2232C-7A3B-44B7-8ACC-6D7E87565B08.jpeg
But now will have to cut off the case to extract the captured decapping pin to recover my .223 shell holder.
The moral of the story is only attempt to process 1k 21 brass at your peril, if you are using RCBS equipment. Maybe a Lee universal decap die could handle this brass, but the 1K 21 beat my RCBS Rockchucker, Universal Decap Die, and small decapping pin neck sizer die team.
Sorry for the long rant, but hoping to help someone else going through a similar experience, and sorry I didn't get the brand name of the ammo that spawned Satan's brass.
 
I've learned to use a dedicated heavy duty decapping die on military brass, especially anything that has crimped and or primer sealant.
 
I've learned to use a dedicated heavy duty decapping die on military brass, especially anything that has crimped and or primer sealant.
It was a heavy decapping pin that the 9mm case destroyed. Small flash hole, crimped primer resulted in the bent pin and rod. Not sure what the answer is for this brass. Not like the Rockchucker has insufficient leverage.
 
I do not use brass that I was not the first to shoot it, unless I am absolutely sure about it's origin/history (the exception would be a big bunch of 5.7x28 brass I got with a pistol - since most people do not reload this cartridge, I am fairly certain it is once fired and since only one manufacturer makes the ammo {at that time} that too made it a safe bet). I was just thinking of selling the brass, but I think I will just stash it away.
 
It was a heavy decapping pin that the 9mm case destroyed. Small flash hole, crimped primer resulted in the bent pin and rod. Not sure what the answer is for this brass. Not like the Rockchucker has insufficient leverage.
Sorry. I should of clarified. I don't consider the RCBS a "heavy duty" decapper.

This guy will punch a new hole in the brass before it breaks. Sadly out of stock at the moment.
 
Appreciate the link. Nice to know it isn't just operator error. I only scooped up 39 of them, so best option is to add them to the enlarged primer pocket/split neck recycling box. Plenty of viable brass available, PMC, PSD, GFL, LC, IMI, plus the usual suspects R-P, Win, Fed, Hornady and Nosler. I don't think I have ever found (or bought) any Lapua, though. :rolleyes:
 
But now will have to cut off the case to extract the captured decapping pin to recover my .223 shell holder.
Why do you need to "cut off the case"? Just set the shell holder on the vice with the case between the jaws and use a hammer and punch to drive the deprimer pin back the way it came.
 
Why do you need to "cut off the case"? Just set the shell holder on the vice with the case between the jaws and use a hammer and punch to drive the deprimer pin back the way it came.
I don't have a punch that would fit the flash hole or the decapping pin. I am not going to waste any more time on these few 9mm and 5.56 cases. I also ordered a Lee .223 shell holder and one of their Universal decapping dies that accepts the Squirrel Daddy pins for future use.
 
It was a heavy decapping pin that the 9mm case destroyed. Small flash hole, crimped primer resulted in the bent pin and rod. Not sure what the answer is for this brass. Not like the Rockchucker has insufficient leverage.
Maybe try a Lyman flash hole uniformer. A small hand-held (or drill capable) cutter with a tapered centering collar for the cutter.
Screen Shot 2021-06-14 at 11.52.50 PM.png There are also companies that make carbide flash hole uniformers, but I have found the Lyman to be just fine.
 
I just generally dump all red primer pocket cases in the same bag, it's not worth my time to find out OK this one's good but oh damn that one just broke my decapping pen.
I only use certain head stamps and that works for me.
What about those "RED" PRIMERED" 7.62X39 R cases Jim? Hee, Hee, Hee. Just kidding.
Until I can no longer do them by hand, I use a Frankford Arsenal Hand-Deprimer. You think RCBS is good, my decapping pin broke on one of the small flash-holes, contacted them, they sent me a BRAND NEW COMPLETE UNIT, now that's customer service, with a smile.
Doing the cases by hand, gives me a feel, how tight the primer-pocket is, before I use a gauge (Ballistic Tools) on it. I can feel if it's a BERDAN PRIMER, or a small flash-hole, even a burr, partially covering the hole. I get to know all this, before I break any pins. Plus I have taught myself to customize (sand and polish) the pins to work better when decapping cases.
Might chuck a couple up in my mini-lathe and see what I can come up with. The pins which are part of the shaft and not replaceable, need to have a little bit longer pin and the shoulder-area which hits the flash-hole "burr", needs to reconfigured. Many times the shoulder-area gets caught up on the inside burr, plus the pin should be needle-sharp, it finds the flash-hole quicker and will punch through the primers no matter what. I sharpen mine and they work much better.
 
Last Edited:

Upcoming Events

Tillamook Gun & Knife Show
Tillamook, OR
"The Original" Kalispell Gun Show
Kalispell, MT
Teen Rifle 1 Class
Springfield, OR
Kids Firearm Safety 2 Class
Springfield, OR

New Resource Reviews

New Classified Ads

Back Top