Want to get into reloading.

[Gunner3456]

+1

I reload several different cartridges and the Lee turret system makes it very easy to switch between cartridges.

The major reloading equipment manufacturers have been in business for decades and there really aren't any shoddy or bad quality presses, they are all solid products. Read the reviews of the Lee turret press kit http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=622290

Thanks for the pics. That shows how you can put all three (or four if you like a separate crimp die) dies for one caliber in a turret, lock the adjustment for each, and then just quickly swap the turrets.

 

[bugeye]

Are Lee Dies OK?
if so , how useful and good are the Lee Factory Crimp Dies?
If these are useful, does any other company make something similar.

 

[Gunner3456]

Are Lee Dies OK?
if so , how useful and good are the Lee Factory Crimp Dies?
If these are useful, does any other company make something similar.

The Lee dies are very good. The three die sets have a crimper built into the bullet seating die and that works fine. It's adjustable separate from the bullet depth. Many turret and progressive presses have only three holes for dies anyway, and I've never even wanted the fourth separate crimp die.

All Lee pistol dies are carbide (except maybe .357 sig and I'm not sure,) and there are very few carbide dies available for rifles due to the complexity of shape. When they are available they are very expensive and I don't know anyone who uses them except commercial reloaders with very expensive automated machines. Most of us just roll the brass on a lube pad and that's easy, fast, and works fine. You can also spray the lube on, but I find that messy and I don't want to risk contaminating the inside of a freshly cleaned case.

You don't have to lube the carbide dies.

hth

 

[Arkitek]

You might also be interested in taking a basic reloading class. One of the forum members here, can't recall who off the top of my head, teaches a basic reloading class about once a month on a Saturday that people have said was a great help getting them started.

Help me out here folks, who is it that teaches the reloading class?

Here's a link to the class:
http://www.northwestfirearms.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28837

I'd see what its like before you invest in equipment...otherwise you're guessing what works best for you...and everyone has their own opinons for their own particular use and application.

Here's a link to the class feedback from those who took it:
http://www.northwestfirearms.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19851

I'd do it again....ps...dont buy anything but a Dillon 550B!

Good luck!

 

[Lloyd Braun]

im new to reloading too
i got the lee carbide dies and no issues
i use them in the lee single stage so far so good

 

[Gunner3456]

I'd do it again....ps...dont buy anything but a Dillon 550B!

Good luck!

Dillon is great stuff, no kidding. Just for giggles, since we're talking "affordable," how much would you estimate that a complete Dillon 550B with 6 caliber changes complete would cost?

I'm not talking about the accessories that are off-press, just the complete press only, ready to go for 6 calibers including dies etc.

 

[sasquatch98226]

Just my .02 cents here, but here it goes.

It really comes down to how much you plan to shoot. That should dictate what type of press you get.

I shoot USPSA and local Tactical rifle match. Each match is approximately 200+ rounds. I figure 10 matches of each per year for a total of 4000 rounds annually. That is just for matches, and does not include any practice.

With the amount I shoot, that dictates a "progressive" press. Now in all the posts that I have read so far all I have seen discussed is the "Red" and "Green" presses. Now don't get me wrong they each make great single stage equipment, and some innovative progressive systems, but no mention of Big Blue Dillon.

I started with a "square-deal" in 9mm. When I changed over .40 I decided that rather then get a another "square-deal" I would step up with the big boys, and get a "650". Now when I started reloading all my shooting buddies that reloaded said, "Get a 650 and don't worry about anything else". What did I get? I wanted to be cheap and I got the "square-deal" It worked great, but I found that I out-grew it quickly. I was able to sell it for almost what I paid for it, and put that money towards a 650 with case feeder. Best decision I made. Now I load, 9mm, .40, and .223. All I do is change the tool-head, a case feed plate, and small pins, and away I go. I can switch caliber’s in about 5-minutes. Besides the fact that Dillon supports the shooting sports, and has the best warranty in the business. It's called the "NO BS" warranty. If it breaks you call them up, explain what you need, and they send out the new part!!!! They will even "refurb" you machine for $39 plus shipping. Best part yet, you don't have to be the first owner!!! I bought mine used, and still get the warranty.

Now the moral of the story is...... Cry once, buy once. Dillon is not cheap, but they stand behind their product, and it will last forever. Then if it needs repaired, they will do that too.

 

[ikari2_2000]

or "Buy cheap, buy twice."

 

[Brandon44647]

It seems to be most opinions are if you buy cheap, you get "CHEAP" spend a couple extra bucks and you wont be sorry, or buying another press because what you bought was "CHEAP" . GO RCBS, you wont be sorry.....

 

[Gunner3456]

Why of course. Always buy the best. Why, here's a Dillon 650 kit for only $1,377. Brand new, too. Of course it will load just one caliber and each additional caliber is solid gold but that's OK, why be cheap? Link

Now, let's add 5 more caliber conversions and dies at more than $100 a pop and we're only up to about $1,900.

Next let's get the necessary off-press accessories for about $500 and we're rockin' and rollin'.

What's $2,400 to a guy who wants a good budget outfit?

 

[Arkitek]

Dillon is great stuff, no kidding. Just for giggles, since we're talking "affordable," how much would you estimate that a complete Dillon 550B with 6 caliber changes complete would cost?

I'm not talking about the accessories that are off-press, just the complete press only, ready to go for 6 calibers including dies etc.

As you know, affordable is only relative to how bad you want it. I learned on both a single stage and a progressive (thanks John)...my choice, hands down was a progressive...but thats strictly MY opinion! I still recommend trying each before you buy either...to better form YOUR own opinion.
I have a mix of RCBS, Lee and Dillon dies (3&4 die sets)...I also own a Lee single stage and all the dies I purchase are interchangable with my Dillon 550B. I still prefer to process brass with my Lee, but making high quality rounds in short time, is progressive work.

FYI as requested, costs direct from the factory site follows:
https://www.dillonprecision.com/
I bought a RL 550B ($376) with a 9mm die set ($62) and a conversion kit ($44) for a total of $482.
After perfecting my 9mm loads for a month, I spent another $106 to load .45acp...month later I tried .223 for $109...then another $109 for .308 a month after...its like a disease ! (I'm up to 11 calibers invested over time)
After the first month and a $482 investment, I self confirmed, it was the right system for me, speed was good...I have no desire for a Dillon 650 (learned on one...its not for me).

The OP would have to invest $912 to load the four calibers he mentioned, if he wants a good basic progressive setup. If you buy the Lee pistol 4 die sets, you could reduce that to $900 even. Thats as economical as I could get, for a Dillon progressive system offering the flexibility to load any caliber in my arsenal and I like to hand index the system...You could spend more, but I won't.

Good luck selling your set up...it looks like a good deal.

 

[tac]

RCBS Roch Chucker supreme master reloading kit. Has everything you need to get started besides dies and components.

ETA: I like the hand primer in this kit better than the others

Most of over here who reload more than the one caliber go for RCBS. I did, back in 1978, and have never been let down. My initially single-stage Rockchucker is/was used for .38Spec/.357Mag - 9mmP - .44Spec and .44Mag, 7x57Mauser, 7.5x55 Swiss and .308Win, as well as sizing all the hard lead loads for the above and also .451 and .58cal for BP.

When I was shooting a LOT of .38Spec back in the '90's, I part-owned an electric Dillon press that cranked them out by the thousand - Dillon make great stuff too.

tac

 

[Gunner3456]

Well, in addition to a good press, you still NEED every single one of the items listed below if you want to turn out quality rounds. Some of the kits guys are mentioning have some of these items, but not nearly all of them.

I'm always amazed when folks will spend a ton on a press, but won't buy a chronograph, for instance, or a tumbler, or many of the other things mentioned below.

I don't care if you have a million dollar press, you can't turn out good rounds if you can't clean them, test them, size them, measure them, etc. etc.

Powder Scale

One extra small Single stage press, I would dedicate this to swage military primer pockets.

RCBS military crimp swage kit or another good way to swage.

Three die sets (these or the ones you'd rather have):

9mm Luger carbide
.40 S&W carbide
.45 ACP carbide
.243 Win rifle
.270 Win rifle
.223/5.56 rifle

Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-Easy Case Tumbler Kit 645-880 or a similar setup.

Maybe 10 pounds each of extra walnut and corncob media

Forster Original case length trimmer with extra collets, complete, or similar.

digital calipers suitable for case length and OAL measuring.

Lee inside/outside case chamfer tool

RCBS case lube pad and lube NIB

RCBS bench top plastic case holders - one each fits all - new.

RCBS quick change powder funnel kit. Is a plastic "fits all" funnel set.

Frankford Arsenel kinetic bullet puller complete, or other brand.

Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital Chronograph or other good model.

Camera tripod for above Chrony.

 

[Gunner3456]

I don't like progressive presses, especially for those new to the hobby. They are fast, and that's it. They are also multi-tasking and they take total concentration to watch every thing that's happening. I far prefer a turret press which does one case at a time, each process in sequence, until it's finished.

It's not quite as fast but I stop at every tenth round and weigh a powder charge, for instance. I also keep my powder measure nearly full for consistent charges. I'm far more interested in quality than quantity.

A turret press is still far faster than a single stage, not only in actual operation but also in setup time when changing calibers.

Here's a guy who's pretty clumsy using a turret press:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zOpN9iYOyE8

Here's a guy using a Lee Pro 1000 progressive.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kWXyxOEbZ0

The obvious difference is that the turret press gets one shell in the center ram, and repeated lever pulls until it's finished. The powder drop and priming are part of the process.

The progressive press gets three cases in the machine, and every lever pull does something different to each case. It's faster, no doubt, but I've never seen one turn out the quality that a turret can.

I agree that's just my opinion, kinda of like arguing which is better, a sedan or a pickup. It's just important to realize that there is a difference.

 

[Texfisher33]

Wow! Thank you for all the information. It looks like I need to take a class that some of you have recommended before I go spend any money. I'm more confused with what I "think" I want now then I was before. I know there is a million things I need to learn before I make my decision. Thanks again for you're input. I'll be back after I take a class and let you know what I've decided on. I'm hoping I can make the May, 15 class but i'm not sure yet.

 

[alfack]

I started off on a Dillon 550B, with no classes, mentors or even the internet. I added a Forster co-ax for more precise rifle loads. The 550 can be used as a single stage press if you wanted to. It's not rocket science. The toughest part is figuring out how deep to set your dies. The good thing is, once you have adjusted your dies, there is no need to do it again, unless you are loading for a different COL.

If you can read, all you need is the manual that comes with the press and a decent reloading manual from Hornady or Lyman etc..

I can't imagine loading pistol cartridges on a non-progressive type machine. I have never had a round that malfunctioned, either. I have had rounds that would not fit in the case gauge, after the initial loading, but a tweak of the die adjustments and all was good.

BTW, I would suggest adding case gauges to your list, if they are not on it already.
They are invaluable when determining if you rounds are in spec and will chamber in your firearm.

Don't be intimidated. As with everything, there is a learning curve. Once you have your setup, you can always come here with any questions.

 

[turq]

I recently got a Redding T-7 ; Solid cast iron heads taking 7 dies, with primer arm and 'upgrade' quick primer arm available. $249
I also have mostly Horn. dies with some Redding TiC pistol dies. Also have one RCBS carbide pistol(taper crimp included in set).
Buy one of the less expensive Digital scales and start to it.
Do not scrimp on the press; go with the T-7..02

 

[NK777]

Nothing wrong with a LEE press or kit. You get a lot for your money. Anybody that tells you differently either has never owned a Lee or is just press biased. millions probably billions of rounds have been reloaded with Lee presses throughout time.

They are inexpencive but reliable.

 

[Gunner3456]

Buy one of the less expensive Digital scales and start to it.
Do not scrimp on the press; go with the T-7..02

Here's something interesting for you. Several of my friends and I got together for the express purpose of testing scales. We had a pretty good variety of different brands and types of scales. We used a 5 grain and a 25 grain pair of calibrating weights.

The least accurate scales by a mile were the digitals. The cheaper ones were off so much we were shocked, and the 2 RCBS units we had were off by more than a grain. That's horrible. To read out 4 grains when you actually have 5 grains, and you want to put 5 grains in a case is horrible. That's means you'll wind up putting about 6 grains in the case and believe you only have five grains.

The most accurate by far were the beam scales, and the most accurate of those were two Lee Safety powder scales we had which sell for about $25.

All of the beam scales were accurate enough, but the more expensive they were, the less accurate they tended to be. The RCBS was the worst.

I now trust only my Lee scale which I have proven is off by only .1 grains. I gave my RCBS digital to a friend who has a metal jewelry casting hobby and accuracy isn't that important. I sure wouldn't give it to a friend to reload with.

 

[turq]

Did you actually let the electronics 'warm' for a full 10 minutes? No breezes in the room.
Did you calibrate?
I just don't see a digital being off after so short of a time after calibration.