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@Reno i have a roll pin punch starter set but not regular roll pin punches? How essential are they to place the pins? Can I use the starter punches then finish with a regular punch or should I just be patient and order some roll pin punches?


Im not Reno, but you can use regular punches. Roll pin punches just have a little ball on them to help keep the punch aligned. If you are careful it dont matter what punch you use. IMO
 
Im not Reno, but you can use regular punches. Roll pin punches just have a little ball on them to help keep the punch aligned. If you are careful it dont matter what punch you use. IMO

Thank you, have everything ready to go. Gonna do it tomorrow after some pistol practice.
 
Harbor Freight sells a set of transfer punches that I use after setting the roll pin using a roll punch starter.
They are very long and give you more room away from the lower so you don't scratch it.
The point helps keep it centered while driving in the pin.


1594360839271.png
 
Wow, parts seem to be missing a lot, no gas block pin with tube or block, no crush washer with A2 flash hider. Should I be lucky I got shims with my barrel nut?
 
So a bunch of videos show installation is f the flash hider or comp while in the upper vise block but I heard that might be bad for the barrel pin and to use or make a barrel vise.

The torque for the barrel nut is 65lbs and the comp calls for 25. Does this have an affect on the pressure transferred to the pin?

Sorry for hijacking this thread, really close to being finished with pics
 
@Reno i have a roll pin punch starter set but not regular roll pin punches? How essential are they to place the pins? Can I use the starter punches then finish with a regular punch or should I just be patient and order some roll pin punches?
Starter punches as pictured above, totally help in reducing pin flare up from smacking them. Entirely not needed.
Wow, parts seem to be missing a lot, no gas block pin with tube or block, no crush washer with A2 flash hider. Should I be lucky I got shims with my barrel nut?
Usually the gas tube comes with the gas tube pin. Weird your didn't come with one. What manufacturer? It's common for muzzle devices not to come with shims or a crush washer. If they do, I see it as a perk not a requirement.
So a bunch of videos show installation is f the flash hider or comp while in the upper vise block but I heard that might be bad for the barrel pin and to use or make a barrel vise.

The torque for the barrel nut is 65lbs and the comp calls for 25. Does this have an affect on the pressure transferred to the pin?

Sorry for hijacking this thread, really close to being finished with pics
65 pounds on the barrel but is usually the MAX recommendation. I start at 35, then back it off, go to 45, back off, finishing at 55. At that point if the nut needs timing, I'll switch to an regular ratchet and continue to tighten until the proper timing is met.

25-30 is perfect for a comp. I usually don't use a torque wrench on them if using a crush washer, I just tighten to time it properly. If using shims, or it doesn't require timing, I'll use lockset and or torque to 30 foot pounds. If using for suppressor, I use both lockset and torque to 30-45 foot pounds, unless manufacture recommends otherwise.
 
Starter punches as pictured above, totally help in reducing pin flare up from smacking them. Entirely not needed.

Usually the gas tube comes with the gas tube pin. Weird your didn't come with one. What manufacturer? It's common for muzzle devices not to come with shims or a crush washer. If they do, I see it as a perk not a requirement.

65 pounds on the barrel but is usually the MAX recommendation. I start at 35, then back it off, go to 45, back off, finishing at 55. At that point if the nut needs timing, I'll switch to an regular ratchet and continue to tighten until the proper timing is met.

25-30 is perfect for a comp. I usually don't use a torque wrench on them if using a crush washer, I just tighten to time it properly. If using shims, or it doesn't require timing, I'll use lockset and or torque to 30 foot pounds. If using for suppressor, I use both lockset and torque to 30-45 foot pounds, unless manufacture recommends otherwise.

Thank you so much for the information. I definitely did do increments and the timing was perfect at just about 60.
What is your opinion on needing a barrel vise or should I be fine installing the muzzle device while the barrel is attached to the receiver in the vise?

The muzzle device I got was an Aero A2 birdcage Flash hider but then I remembered a few years back I bought a War Sport Top Hat comp when it was on sale and decided to use that. I have a shim set I picked up from coat of arms.

Thanks again for the help through my first build
 
What is your opinion on needing a barrel vise or should I be fine installing the muzzle device while the barrel is attached to the receiver in the vise?

It depend 100% on the vise block.

Types like these are a no go...
New Frontier Armory AR-15 Universal Upper Receiver Vise Block
DPMS AR-15 Upper Receiver Block | Brownells

While these are good to go...
BROWNELLS AR-15/M16 UPPER RECEIVER ACTION BLOCK | Brownells
MAGPUL AR-15 BEV BLOCK | Brownells

Personally I use a reaction rod for installs.
GEISSELE AUTOMATICS LLC AR-15/M16 REACTION ROD | Brownells
 
Thank you so much for the information. I definitely did do increments and the timing was perfect at just about 60.
What is your opinion on needing a barrel vise or should I be fine installing the muzzle device while the barrel is attached to the receiver in the vise?

The muzzle device I got was an Aero A2 birdcage Flash hider but then I remembered a few years back I bought a War Sport Top Hat comp when it was on sale and decided to use that. I have a shim set I picked up from coat of arms.

Thanks again for the help through my first build
Well, you just put 60 foot pounds of torque on the receiver to install the barrel. What's the 30 foot pounds gonna do using the receiver block?

It'll be fine.
 
Well, you just put 60 foot pounds of torque on the receiver to install the barrel. What's the 30 foot pounds gonna do using the receiver block?

It'll be fine.

Haha I'm dumb, that makes sense, classic overthinking, thank you so much

Btw the roll pin starter was great and then I used a pair of parallel pliers and a shop towel to drive it in flush. Worked really well.
 
I use the Magpul Bev block above. I would think anything that uses the lugs of the barrel extension instead of the upper receiver or takedown pin holes would be acceptable.
 

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