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Late to the party but in my defense I was laying on a beach in Hawaii. :D

Tikka hands down with out a question is the way to go. You won't need any modification's to it out of the box. slap a scope on it and go shoot sub MOA.
So they take away the fun of getting really intimate with your rifle. :s0002: I wanna strip her down, take away the unnecessary bits, then get her in a nice and snug fit. I don't want some other guy doing that.
If it matters I think the military snipers when with 300 WM and some 1000 yard matches went with 7 mm; but others would know more than me on the latter.
To be fair, they also use 7.62 NATO and .50 BMG...
 
Time and money yes I have it. I'm just totally new to bolt action rifles. I've built many ar15's though.

Maybe I can find someone who wants to trade s Noveske 6.8 spc2 gen3 rifle for a nice 270
 
Shoot a ton of bolt action rifles, and you get an idea of what works well, what is OK, what is meh.
I have Savage, Howa, Remington, Ruger, Winchester and Marlin actions. Had a CZ 550.
Balance makes a world of difference. If you were going to shoot with a muzzle brake, you would find they are very different in their effectiveness and noise. Some stocks are more natural pointing for you than others.
Found I much prefer Mauser extractors. Triggers are so different too.
Some bolts only take ~60° of throw to work, some need ~90°, some need even more.
What's remarkable is how a seemingly small difference in the whole package can make it a much better rifle for you.
My point being, if you build custom, have an idea of what works for you. It's easy to put together a package for a few grand that will never be all that you want it to be.
If you shot 30 different rifles, then shot a Tikka, Sako, Bergara or Weatherby MK V, you would recognize that those are well put-together rifles.
 
Ok, let's say I do start piecing one together. What parts general does one start with? The action?
Yes, the action, BUT, it's hard to separate the importance of everything assembled: action, barrel, trigger, stock.

You can start with Standard Remington or Savage actions, but of all the "off the shelf" actions, my preference would be for a CZ550 first, Ruger 2nd.

Or you could go semi-custom or full custom.
Right in your neighborhood, you have Pacific Tool and Gauge, and they blueprint actions and sell them (think blueprinting an engine). Top shelf stuff. Actions & Barreled Actions - Pacific Tool and Gauge

I considered Montana Rifle Company actions for a while after holding one. They are inexpensive compared to other manufacturers like Stiller or Defiance. I read that those two are excellent. Of the three listed, only Montana Rifle has a Mauser extractor claw.
There are a lot of really outstanding barrel manufacturers too.
A handful of great triggers, and for stocks, wood, laminate, or chassis?

So many decisions to resolve, and after shooting lots of different rifles, you may have a much more clear picture of the ideal rig.
 
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Yes, they are.
.300 throws more mass down range, but 7mm is nearly the perfect balance between BC and SD.
...like I wrote before, 7mm RM is literally the standard for consistent 400+ yard shots.

For quite a while the Eastern Oregon long range hunters were all a blaze about the 7mm Weatherby.
 
Wanting to buy a bolt action rifle good for 500+ yards for target shooting.
Cartridges I've considered so fare are 6mm and 6.5 Creedmoor
Thoughts to consider are cost of reloading.
Availability of brass.
Proven cartridge performance.
Any thoughts or recommendations would be awesome.

Some thoughts on yours and others comments. For starters ditch the idea of a 270 for a couple important reasons.
1-The shallow shoulder angle and long tapering body lead to much more case stretch than a case with a sharp shoulder and straight body like a 284 or 6.5CM and more importantly the skinny, tall powder column will not burn as consistently as a shorter, fatter case. Minimizing velocity variations at long distance is key to making hits at distance. The reason virtually all modern "target" cartridges are relatively shorter and fatter is more consistent burn and much lower velocity spreads. It will be much easier to get a 284 or Creedmoor to shoot low ES than a 270 or 30-06.
2-If you're going to shoot a string of more than 5-6 rounds at a time you'll want a heavier barrel contour and you won't find that in a 270 as they're made fairly skinny to carry hunting all day. Shoot a 20 round string with a sporter barrel and it'll be smoking hot and throwing shots and you'll be shortening its life...

There's a reason virtually NOBODY competes with a 270 or 30-06 anymore. If it's what you have fine, but you're building or buying from scratch so choose something better suited to the task. I built a heavy barrel 30-06 for my uncle and he laughed when I brought out my little 6.5x47L. He wasn't laughing after I cleaned his clock out to 1200 yards with my 6.5.

If it's really just for target shooting and not hunting my 2 cents would be to grab a Savage target action and a Criterion barrel and lug from Northland Shooter Supply. Do a 6.5x47L- very easy to tune up, mild and long barrel life, very high BC bullets. Have Forster neck hone a sizing die and grab a match seater. If you want factory ammo available do a 6.5 Creedmoor, if you want more juice I like 260AI and 284W but they're more involved and spendier to feed.
 
This quote was in response to recoil of 7mm Mag or 300 Mag.

I am not a big guy, but I've never been able to tell the recoil of a 7mm from a 30-06 in a similar rifle, or the recoil of the 300 vs an '06AI, which makes sense since the energy levels are similar. Stock design and recoil pad can make or break how well you and your rifle get along. I've only shot slightly over 100 rounds in one day, but that didn't pound me into submission and I see no reason for extra
length or bulk on my rifle.

I must just be "special".

I think either of these could be good for the OP's question, but I also think you'll work a lot harder to get a belted cartridge to shoot as consistently as well as a non belted one, especially if the distances stretch out.
I've never had a problem getting any belted magnum to shoot well. You may be doing it wrong.
 
Yes, the action, BUT, it's hard to separate the importance of everything assembled: action, barrel, trigger, stock.

You can start with Standard Remington or Savage actions, but of all the "off the shelf" actions, my preference would be for a CZ550 first, Ruger 2nd.

Or you could go semi-custom or full custom.
Right in your neighborhood, you have Pacific Tool and Gauge, and they blueprint actions and sell them (think blueprinting an engine). Top shelf stuff. Actions & Barreled Actions - Pacific Tool and Gauge

I considered Montana Rifle Company actions for a while after holding one. They are inexpensive compared to other manufacturers like Stiller or Defiance. I read that those two are excellent. Of the three listed, only Montana Rifle has a Mauser extractor claw.
There are a lot of really outstanding barrel manufacturers too.
A handful of great triggers, and for stocks, wood, laminate, or chassis?

So many decisions to resolve, and after shooting lots of different rifles, you may have a much more clear picture of the ideal rig.
I like the way you are thinking on this. It's great advice, but for me, I don't really know how much I like a rifle platform until I've carried it in the field. Like on a good week of elk hunting. I think sometimes, we may take for granted the experience we may have and don't take time to put ourselves in a newbies shoes. Take, for instance, the fact you know you prefer a controlled round feed over a pushfeed. You didn't just realize that over a day of shooting rifles at the range. Or checking rifles out at the lgs and shouldering them. Most rifles have their good points, some bad. It takes time to figure out what works best for you. I'll be perfectly honest, I love and collect pre 64 model 70 winchesters, but prefer my old m1917's for hunting. If it's just target shooting, I don't care if it's a pushfeed tikka or savage. However, when I'm hunting, I want simplicity, accuracy, robustness, and downright reliable feeding and extraction. I want something I know I can depend on and never have a glitch of any kind. This means mauser 98 derivatives and the like. Rifles need to be balanced well and feel good in the hand when carrying in the field. Safeties need to be easy to manipulate and quiet when moved. Every function of the rifle should be engrained in your muscle memory, so when you are hunting running it will be second nature. Because of all these aspects, it may take a person a while to truly know what he or she likes in a rifle. Now, with all this being said, I will say that I will usually recommend a Tikka to most new shooters, because it's so hard to find fault in the Tikka. They are accurate and light, they carry well, have great triggers, are reliable and the safety is easy to manipulate, even for a lefty. If I were the OP, the first rifle I'd go and check out is a Tikka Superlite 6.5 creedmor at sportsman's warehouse. After you get some experience behind the Tikka, then you can experiment with other makes. Maybe try an old pre 64 model 70, Ruger m77, or a classic featherweight CRF model 70. Like I said, it will take a while to figure out what you really like... Good luck with your search and be safe..
 
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I've never had a problem getting any belted magnum to shoot well. You may be doing it wrong.
I don't do it. I was trying to make a point of magnums headspacing off of the belt vs. headspacing off of the shoulder, which is "usually" more consistent. Maybe more theory than practice, but it is worth considering.
 
I don't do it. I was trying to make a point of magnums headspacing off of the belt vs. headspacing off of the shoulder, which is "usually" more consistent. Maybe more theory than practice, but it is worth considering.

Not that I'm picking on you, but when you hand load for a magnum, you (guys in the know) will size to that chamber. In doing so, this means you will headspace off the shoulder. To quote you: :"but I also think you'll work a lot harder to get a belted cartridge to shoot as consistently". This requires no more "work" than any other cartridge. Just bump the shoulder back a few thousandth's and you are good to go. Some of my most accurate rifles have been belted magnums. I'll be elk hunting with my 338wm in 9 days and its not too shabby in the accuracy department:

lAQNcQj.jpg
 
Some thoughts on yours and others comments. For starters ditch the idea of a 270 for a couple important reasons.
1-The shallow shoulder angle and long tapering body lead to much more case stretch than a case with a sharp shoulder and straight body like a 284 or 6.5CM and more importantly the skinny, tall powder column will not burn as consistently as a shorter, fatter case. Minimizing velocity variations at long distance is key to making hits at distance. The reason virtually all modern "target" cartridges are relatively shorter and fatter is more consistent burn and much lower velocity spreads. It will be much easier to get a 284 or Creedmoor to shoot low ES than a 270 or 30-06.
2-If you're going to shoot a string of more than 5-6 rounds at a time you'll want a heavier barrel contour and you won't find that in a 270 as they're made fairly skinny to carry hunting all day. Shoot a 20 round string with a sporter barrel and it'll be smoking hot and throwing shots and you'll be shortening its life...

There's a reason virtually NOBODY competes with a 270 or 30-06 anymore. If it's what you have fine, but you're building or buying from scratch so choose something better suited to the task. I built a heavy barrel 30-06 for my uncle and he laughed when I brought out my little 6.5x47L. He wasn't laughing after I cleaned his clock out to 1200 yards with my 6.5.

If it's really just for target shooting and not hunting my 2 cents would be to grab a Savage target action and a Criterion barrel and lug from Northland Shooter Supply. Do a 6.5x47L- very easy to tune up, mild and long barrel life, very high BC bullets. Have Forster neck hone a sizing die and grab a match seater. If you want factory ammo available do a 6.5 Creedmoor, if you want more juice I like 260AI and 284W but they're more involved and spendier to feed.
260ai is exactly the same cost as the 6.5x47 down to the cent as you describe your build. Great caliber.
 
Not that I'm picking on you, but when you hand load for a magnum, you (guys in the know) will size to that chamber. In doing so, this means you will headspace off the shoulder. To quote you: :"but I also think you'll work a lot harder to get a belted cartridge to shoot as consistently". This requires no more "work" than any other cartridge. Just bump the shoulder back a few thousandth's and you are good to go. Some of my most accurate rifles have been belted magnums. I'll be elk hunting with my 338wm in 9 days and its not too shabby in the accuracy department:

View attachment 509320
Wrote the man with a run-out gauge. LOL
 

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