walnut maintenance

[scifidelity]

I have a few Berettas with walnut stocks. They aren't library grade wood or anything, but I want to ensure I'm taking proper care of them. I'm ashamed to admit I've been getting the Beretta oil that the guns came with on the stocks and just ended up spreading it around. This is probably not great. From a few minutes of searching prior threads and google, it seems like many people like Boiled linseed oil or Tru-oil. I'm not interested in re-finishing the stocks, just keeping the existing wood healthy. Importantly, I think two of the stocks are a rubbed finish and one is a polyurethane finish. I keep them in my safe in separate silicon impreg. socks. Safe has a heater and de-humidifier. Thanks in advance.

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[Medic!]

Just soak them in Bucher block oil for a couple days every few years.
Works great for Lugers.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

The rubbed finishes, you can use something like Howards Feed n wax from Home depot.

For the synth coated stuff, use a quality car wax.

Don't keep the unfinished/rubbed stuff in silicone socks unless you never want to re-finish or fix anything on them, the silicone gets into the wood. Store them muzzle down in the safe (wood stocked stuff)

 

[scifidelity]

The rubbed finishes, you can use something like Howards Feed n wax from Home depot.

For the synth coated stuff, use a quality car wax.

Don't keep the unfinished/rubbed stuff in silicone socks unless you never want to re-finish or fix anything on them, the silicone gets into the wood. Store them muzzle down in the safe (wood stocked stuff)

thanks for the info. I saw Howards and wondered about it. The main ingredient is the same as car wax, so that would probably be fine for poly as well. I will continue to use the socks because rust/ corrosion from moisture on the metal is a far worse evil than silicone seeping into the stock, in my opinion.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

It's not the main ingredient you care about between the Howard's and the car wax, it's what it's designed to go on and do.

The Howard's will "soak in" and stay somewhat liquid (not actually wet) whereas the car wax is designed to go hard and protect like a shell. The carnauba is for looks, not for protection.


If your room is dry, you have a dehumidifier and its in the safe with an oil or other protection coating, the sock isn't needed. But you're rught about which is worse.

 

[scifidelity]

It's not the main ingredient you care about between the Howard's and the car wax, it's what it's designed to go on and do.

The Howard's will "soak in" and stay somewhat liquid (not actually wet) whereas the car wax is designed to go hard and protect like a shell. The carnauba is for looks, not for protection.


If your room is dry, you have a dehumidifier and its in the safe with an oil or other protection coating, the sock isn't needed. But you're rught about which is worse.

Roger that. Thanks again.

 

[tac]

This walnut is 108 years old...................just had love on it. And a wipe over with an oily cloth every now and then.

 

[JuglansRegia]

Regarding Walnut and handguns, getting too much oil on the wood is usually the problem, that being said, I prefer to wax my wood grips if I do anything to them. Lately I have been using Ren Wax but if you want something thicker and grippier, then minwax paste wax works well also.

 

[scifidelity]

I just found a product called tom's 1/3 mix. it's bee's wax, BLO and turpentine as a thinner. anyone have experience with it on nice stocks? It was designed for the Mil-Surp crowd. Seems like a good all in one though. I'll either get that or get some BLO and Renaissance wax separately.

 

[F2CMaDMaXX]

Um, that's for creating a finish, not maintaining or protecting one - at least, not for a non mil surp.

The thinners is used as the carrier, it will also break up what's on there already, including any sealed finished.

 

[JuglansRegia]

BLO is almost worthless, if you want an oil finish that doesn't really dry, go for Tung Oil.

 

[KKG]

Brownells sells a product called LinSpeed. It is intended for refinishing so if you decide to do more this is the Best in my opinion.

 

[aasbra]

As for maintenance on wood stocks, I like renaissance wax or Johnson's paste wax. When I bring home a new (or new to me) firearm, I wipe down both metal and wood with mineral spirits to degrease, and then apply the wax with a soft cloth, let dry to a haze, then buff off with another soft clean cloth. After handling, I wipe it down with a soft cloth.

 

[tac]

BLO is almost worthless, if you want an oil finish that doesn't really dry, go for Tung Oil.

So useless, in fact that every nation that made a military rifle or carbine used it, and only the USA used tung oil. Go figure.

 

[scifidelity]

As for maintenance on wood stocks, I like renaissance wax or Johnson's paste wax. When I bring home a new (or new to me) firearm, I wipe down both metal and wood with mineral spirits to degrease, and then apply the wax with a soft cloth, let dry to a haze, then buff off with another soft clean cloth. After handling, I wipe it down with a soft cloth.

-nice! I just ordered some renaissance wax. seems like the best of the best.