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I decided that I wanted to store my ammo in a safe instead of on a shelf. I started looking at "small" safes.
A few yrs ago I bought a Winchester Digital from Tractor Supply. While programming the combo, the digital head fried. Took it back to TS and vowed to never ever get another digital.

Seems like others may have had similar experiences to mine, as the last few yrs have seen more and more safes come with a back up key.

I was at the dreaded WMart and saw a "12 gun" safe by Sentinel. Who knows who actually makes it, but the point is that this is the right size and has the backup key with the digital head.

The price is right @ $297.

Its got 5 shelves, but only 3 would work for me as I'm not gonna use the 2 that are notched for long guns.

The only issue is that the side standards (rails) for the shelves are too far rearward. If the shelf load isn't balanced, the shelf falls off. No big deal to re position them


I

SENTINEL SAFE 001.jpg SENTINEL SAFE 002.jpg SENTINEL SAFE 003.jpg
 
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Same as a stack on safe, some fortress and sports afield are basically the same too. I have the same problem with the shelf clips in mine, I just turned some upside down on the top of them to prevent too much play.
 
The clips bent in mine too. I went and got some 2x4 and cut to the length i wanted. Put the cut pieces in the 4 corners and put your shelf on it. Then repeated with the next shelf.

I noticed that the middle of the shelves sag so i cut a 1/2" wooden dowel and prop up the middle part. The "items" in the safe can easily be rearranged around the little piece of dowel. I was thinking that if the dowel fails I'll just cut a 1x2 and wedge it into the middle of each shelf.

;)
 
The plastic clips are fine (so far). The problem is the standards are to far rearward. I'll be adding more clips as suggested by
Vierings.

I do have doubts about the shelves withstanding the weight of ammo. May need to support them.
 
Job box may also be an option for some folks, where simple security may be a concern.

Larger & can be covered to seem as a buffet type table (inside), or work type bench in a garage etc.

Can normally be found for similar price points as the safe in the OP, either new on special, or used.

Handy for semi secure moving of a collection of firearms as well, depending upon box size.

Mind tho, not safes & no fire protection. Suppose one could cut up some thick drywall to ad a theoretical minimal amount of fire protection if concerned.
 
Job box may also be an option for some folks, where simple security may be a concern.

Larger & can be covered to seem as a buffet type table (inside), or work type bench in a garage etc.

Can normally be found for similar price points as the safe in the OP, either new on special, or used.

Handy for semi secure moving of a collection of firearms as well, depending upon box size.

Mind tho, not safes & no fire protection. Suppose one could cut up some thick drywall to ad a theoretical minimal amount of fire protection if concerned.
Yea, get a used one, they don't wear out.. and then sell it whenever for the same or more than paid.
 
I've been thinking of doing the same thing for ammo but I've been considering just getting one of those basic key lock stack-ons or maybe a steel locking file cabinet. My safe has an old-school mechanical dial for the combination which I picked because it seems to me that a combination safe with a backup key is no different than a key-lock cabinet. Not that I"m under any illusions that I've got some Fort Knox solution going on -- in reality it's probably just as easy for a person who knows how to pick locks to figure out the combination of a mechanical dial lock. And of course there's always the angle grinder option for those without knowledge of either.
 
...
The only issue is that the side standards (rails) for the shelves are too far rearward. If the shelf load isn't balanced, the shelf falls off. No big deal to re position them
...

2x2 legs and 1" plywood mini tables stacked on top of each other? Maybe make them 3 legged, one leg in back and two at the front sides. Those wouldn't tip.
 
Job box may also be an option for some folks, where simple security may be a concern.
...
Mind tho, not safes & no fire protection. Suppose one could cut up some thick drywall to ad a theoretical minimal amount of fire protection if concerned.

I have one of these in my garage and I store my primers, powder, and bullets in it. No it isn't full. One day I lost the key to the padlocks. A little bit anxiously and carefully so as to not make sparks, I stuck an 1/8" drill bit and then a 1/4" bit into the key slots and ripped the guts out using a handheld drill. Took all of a minute or less for each lock and they popped right open. I didn't bother replacing the locks after that.
 
Hi Guys, Be careful of two things when looking at safes with Electronic locks.

1. Steer clear of the ones with key backups. They are Non-UL listed and have the key because the lock is unreliable and has proven to fail.
2. Steer clear of inexpensive UL listed electronic locks. They are reliable and manufactured to meet a price point. A good UL listed elock would be something like the S&G Titan Pivot Bolt, The Lagard Basic, or the Securam ProLogic.

If you get a safe with a dial lock, make sure it is UL listed. I recommend the S&G 6730 or the 6741 model dials.
 
My local fire department will stand down from a structure fire if they hear/observe ammunition popping off. For that reason I sourced a lockable, fire rated four drawer legal size file cabinet from Craigslist. Weighs about 400 pounds empty and takes four men and a boy to move, but it was cheap and works well.
 
FWIW

For an ammo safe, do something along the lines of this.
Best to plan the shelf height (including side supports) before cutting.

I stripped out the interior walls and started from the metal sides.
Two layers of 1/2" sheet rock/side, back, top, bottom
Predrill for power before final assy
Measure/cut 3/4" plywood 1/8" shy of length/width/depth for shelves
Remember to figure door depth into the over-all depth of the shelves so the door closes.
Use the same 3/4" plywood for the side supports (I inset plywood shelves into 1" x 1" welded angle iron frames. Dependent on shelf span/width)

Example
Safe-Shelf-Visual1.jpg
 

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