Using a solid core door to build a bench

[v0lcom13sn0w]

The cool thing is if you put the lock-set hole to the rear you can route monitor cables through it... you know, for your TV or computer monitor.

great idea!! could also be used to punch out roll pins if one were flipped to the front and had a sheet of thin plywood underneath with a magnet to catch the pins. could make a flush mounted plug that could be removed when ready to use

 

[Capn Jack]

I'll be your son in law for a few hours for a utility trailer, you'll never see it again... lol

That's just it. I may need to use it again some day.

 

[Stomper]

great idea!! could also be used to punch out roll pins if one were flipped to the front and had a sheet of thin plywood underneath with a magnet to catch the pins. could make a flush mounted plug that could be removed when ready to use

Maybe use one of those small metal parts bowls that are magnetized on the bottom that you can get at Harbor Freight!

 

[Caveman Jim]

That's just it. I may need to use it again some day.

Well in that case.... I can make amends...

 

[Caveman Jim]

Maybe use one of those small metal parts bowls that are magnetized on the bottom that you can get at Harbor Freight!

I have a few from years ago when working on cars & stuff.... they are handy!!!

 

[Stomper]

I have a few from years ago when working on cars & stuff.... they are handy!!!

Unless you have a surgical metal plate somewhere.....

 

[Caveman Jim]

Unless you have a surgical metal plate somewhere.....

True then you don't need a hat....

 

[Capn Jack]

Unless you have a surgical metal plate somewhere.....

Got several. They're nonmagnetic.

If they were, I wouldn't need a holster...

 

[dejure]

I've been making sawdust for over forty years and, in the course of that, have used both solid and hollow core doors for table tops.

If you clamp a straight edge just back from your cut line, a distance equal to the distance between your blade and the edge of the foot plate of your saw, you can get a cabinet worthy straight line cut. With that, you can add a strip of wood to hide the edge.

If doing a hollow core door, insert a piece of cheap wood cut to the same dimension as the area between the two door skins. Then, like above, you can edge strip the door to make a nice edge.

For the legs, you can create a picture frame like frame for the underside to add support. I'd build it to set in about one inch, give or take. Once installed, you can mount your legs.

An angle brace on the corners, against the legs, would go far to supporting them.

When done, I'd add a shelf or wood on which a future shelf could be added to better brace the four legs. Ideally, additional pieces would run in an X between the bottoms of the legs (at the lower boards you added) so the bench wouldn't fold when drug. Alternatively, braces from the top apron to the frame near the bottoms of the legs, at about a 45, would beef up the build.

As long it can be drug around and not fold, you've done okay.

 

[Capn Jack]

I guess I don't look at a work bench as a piece of furniture.
I can appreciate some of the craftsmanship shown here, but it would
be a real crime if I did any where near to some of these shown what I've done to mine.

My bench has been drilled, cut, acid and paint spills and burned by hot lead, you name it.

But...The best thing about using a 3" solid core door is, after I've beat the crap out of it,
I can turn it over and start on the other side.

 

[dejure]

You can pick up laminate (e.g., Formica) and a bit of rubber cement for a really nice work surface. I picked up several pieces at a local Habitat ReStore, for three bucks each, and my several rolling carts are covered [or getting covered].

Any router will allow you to flush trim the laminate, after it's secured to the table top. Just get a cheap flush bit with the bearing on the bottom and move (counter clockwise) around it. You can then, lightly sand the sharp edges.

Mine started out looking good, but are showing more use than most kitchen counters would show after a month of renters.

 

[DirectDrive]

I've been making sawdust for over forty years and, in the course of that, have used both solid and hollow core doors for table tops.

I wouldn't use hollow core unless it was for an extremely light-duty bench.
Like maybe a craft table for the wife.

If you clamp a straight edge just back from your cut line, a distance equal to the distance between your blade and the edge of the foot plate of your saw, you can get a cabinet worthy straight line cut. With that, you can add a strip of wood to hide the edge.

This is a good idea for the weekend warrior.
I just used a manufactured "rip fence" for cutting a ton of FRP panels.
A good straight edge is all that is needed.

For the legs, you can create a picture frame like frame for the underside to add support. I'd build it to set in about one inch, give or take. Once installed, you can mount your legs.

Skirt board.
I mentioned this in post #7.
Only I would set it inboard 4"-6" from the table top edge to keep some area clear for clamping, etc.
For legs, (2) 2x4 in California Corner configuration work very well.
At the top they can go inside or outside the "skirt board" and can be anchored well on two sides.
Somewhere mid-span a 2x4 frame for a shelf can be nested inside the legs.
The shelf serves double duty in that it adds stiffness to the leg system.

As long it can be drug around and not fold, you've done okay.

I would avoid dragging a table made from a 3o -7o solid core door, if possible get some help.
If I had to move it around on a hard surface, I'd probably make up some discs out of scrap 1/4" HDPE or UMHW for the bottom of all the legs. This stuff machines very well and is easy to acquire.
My local Parkrose Hardware even has scraps for sale.

Pro Tip:
If installing plastic laminate on your table top....
FASTEN THE TABLE TOP FROM UNDERNEATH !
Now, if you ever want to take it apart for moving, etc you can !
(your screws are not buried under the laminate)


DD
Pickin' slivers for pay since '71

 

[dejure]

Good ideas. A few more on board and we'll have him selling furniture.

 

[dejure]

The only reason I mention dragging is, you know it's going to happen. As a kid, I moved my mom's big buffet many times by dragging it. It, certainly, wasn't meant to be dragged, but it's fortunate the builder did a good job. Moving from Pacific Beach, Wash., I had to move an eight foot long book shelf by myself. That was bad enough, but it was particle board. Fortunately, I'd replaced the base and anticipated having to push and pull it, so it tolerated being pushed and pulled to where I could put it on a [temporary] cart.

Overkill can be a good thing in furniture [and when dealing with zombies].

 

[DirectDrive]

Good ideas. A few more on board and we'll have him selling furniture.

LOL

Next, maybe a tutorial on how to do tapered legs.

 

[ageingstudent]

LOL

Next, maybe a tutorial on how to do tapered legs.

I can do that I just need to dig out my jig.

 

[ageingstudent]

Good ideas. A few more on board and we'll have him selling furniture.

In looking at designs I was actually thinking about borrowing from this:



Move the legs out towards the corners a bit and a shelf instead of the cross braces. If the legs are placed properly it might not even need to be fastened to the wall. The bonus there is when the last kid moves out (soon) I can move it into the spare room at about the same time I convert the closet into a gun vault. It'll just be my cat, myself, and a lot of hardware in there. No man card no entry.

 

[DirectDrive]

In looking at designs I was actually thinking about borrowing from this:

View attachment 368718

Move the legs out towards the corners a bit and a shelf instead of the cross braces. If the legs are placed properly it might not even need to be fastened to the wall. The bonus there is when the last kid moves out (soon) I can move it into the spare room at about the same time I convert the closet into a gun vault. It'll just be my cat, myself, and a lot of hardware in there. No man card no entry.

Pleasing to the eye, but I think I'd still vote for straight legs for a utility table.

Straight legs
+
Easier to build
Easier to add lower shelving
More space for shelving

-
Basic in appearance

Splayed legs
+ Pleasing to the eye

-
Harder to build requiring compound angles
Diminished space for shelving
*Tripping hazard

*When maneuvering around a table, you subconsciously estimate where the leg is as you look at the corner.
A splayed leg doesn't fit the equation. Ever trip on a sawhorse leg ?

A good sawhorse leg compound angle is 2/12 (9.5°) x 18°
Might be a starting point ?

 

[Tilos]

Pleasing to the eye, but I think I'd still vote for straight legs for a utility table.

Straight legs
+
Easier to build
Easier to add lower shelving
More space for shelving

-
Basic in appearance

Splayed legs
+ Pleasing to the eye

-
Harder to build requiring compound angles
Diminished space for shelving
*Tripping hazard

*When maneuvering around a table, you subconsciously estimate where the leg is as you look at the corner.
A splayed leg doesn't fit the equation. Ever trip on a sawhorse leg ?

A good sawhorse leg compound angle is 2/12 (9.5°) x 18°
Might be a starting point ?

I'm not a wood worker per say, but I thought why not use a solid core door as solid ends/legs" too, if you have them, and the selves below the top.
Simple enough for even me to build...if I had some solid core doors,

 

[DirectDrive]

I'm not a wood worker per say, but I thought why not use a solid core door as solid ends/legs" too, if you have them, and the selves below the top.
Simple enough for even me to build...if I had some solid core doors,

You could do it, but the end result would be very heavy.
It would also cut out light to the shelf area.

*Table Trivia
Supposedly it was a table built like this that saved Hitler's life on 7/20/44.
A table "leg panel" shielded him from the blast.