Used Smith & Wesson Stainless 6” .357 Mag, DA Revolver (66-1)

OldBroad44

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I have close to .5 mm (0.0196) or so of movement on every hole. Is that considered tight?

Dan
I don't know whether that little amount of play in cylinder would be considered a "tight lockup" or not for purposes of describing a gun in an ad . My understanding is some revolvers have cylinders that are tight when closed. Some tighten up when gun is cocked. And some become fully tight only as hammer dropped. My revolvers have always locked up completely tight when hammer is dropping if not before. I just checked Buddy, my 686-4 snubby. He has about 1mm or less of play in the cylinder with cylinder closed and locks up totally tight when hammer is cocked. Also checked Thumper, my 9.5" Ruger Super Redhawk .44mag. Same pattern as with Buddy. A very slight amount of play with cylinder closed and locked up tight with hammer cocked. I don't know whether any play at all is acceptable once hammer is in dropping position. Or whether it indicates a timing problem or wear to parts controlling cylinder that is going to affect accuracy. Can someone else help? @RVTECH ? @Velzey ?
 
How exactly are you measuring this?
I'd like to say with my digital caliper but..
I did this procedure for every chamber..
I had the hammer on 1/2 cock..it stays there by its self, which I'm assuming is normal. I laid the pistol on it's side and pressed the cylinder clockwise till it stopped. I set my 6" stainless mm ruler on edge on the pistol frame, perpendicular to the notch in the cylinder, then lined a tick mark up (on the ruler) on a straight cut side of the notch and rotated the cylinder counter-clockwise till it stopped.
I hope that makes sense..

Dan
 
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I had the hammer on 1/2 cock..it stays there by its self, which I'm assuming is normal.
Before we go any further this is NOT normal - a DA S & W revolver does not have a 'half cock' in the traditional sense and the hammer should not 'stay there by itself'.

Please try this - put the hammer in this position you think is half cock and when it is stationary, try pushing it forward and see what happens.
 
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OldBroad44

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A SW DA revolver should not have a half cock position. When I talk about checking cylinder lockup when hammer has been cocked and dropped half way I'm assuming you hold hammer with thumb and pull trigger with thumb still on hammer and use thumb to lower hammer to about half way and hold hammer in this position with thumb while checking lockup. And dont force anything while checking lockup.

When I look for play in the cylinder I'm guesstimating. The issue for me has always been some vs none.
 

Mikej

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I check for lock-up by having/holding the trigger all the way back and the hammer down just like it'd all be upon firing.
That's what I always heard. Cock hammer. hold hammer with thumb. Pull trigger and slowly lower hammer while holding trigger. NOW check for cylinder movement front to back and side to side with trigger held back. I read some years ago S&W revolvers have a very slight movement side to side. I believe that Colt has no side to side movement? I'm talking, .010"-.012"(?) .
I just checked my no dash 686 that I have, with barely a turn ring. I have very little rotational movement that is barely perceptible. But I can hear it. My very little use M19 and M66 have that little bit more.

Something else to check is cylinder to barrel clearance. Should be about .005" for real good. maybe .004", up to .008". Less than .004" is getting too tight Getting above that is still good, but showing more use. .010"-.012" is sloppy and I wouldn't buy it at all unless it was cheap and going to be a truck gun type thing. Just for the fun of it, if you have a .357 projectile? It should NOT drop straight through the cylinder holes without being pushed through. And the pressure to push it through should be equal on all six holes. One other thing that's telling? Is what kind of wear is on the ejection star nubs. You gun has very little sign of wear on those. Considering a very slight turn line, the ejection star nubs is enough, for me anyway, to say that gun hasn't seen much use. I'm going to guess all those other things will be well within spec. IMO, if you want the best, put it somewhere for $925.00. To see if you can get someone like me when I started buying S&W to pay that. :D And don't go less than $850.00. But give it a good while before you take $850.00 Those things aren't going down in price!

And I'm not sorry now I payed $50.00-$65.00 more than I should have for the 4" M66. :s0155:
 
Before we go any further this is NOT normal - a DA S & W revolver does not have a 'half cock' in the traditional sense and the hammer should not 'stay there by itself'.
Please try this - put the hammer in this position you think is half cock and when it is stationary, try pushing it forward and see what happens.
Done & done..I can push on this until the cows come home.. it doesn't move. (not forward at least) That being said, it takes a few tries to get it to 'set' there. It's NOT like it happens 'every' cock or re-cock. But just touch the trigger and it's firing. And the pistol continues to operate in full DA.
IMG_7406.JPG

A SW DA revolver should not have a half cock position. When I talk about checking cylinder lockup when hammer has been cocked and dropped half way I'm assuming you hold hammer with thumb and pull trigger with thumb still on hammer and use thumb to lower hammer to about half way and hold hammer in this position with thumb while checking lockup. And dont force anything while checking lockup.
When I look for play in the cylinder I'm guesstimating. The issue for me has always been some vs none.
Following your directions, I'm getting the same amount of rotational movement no matter how/where or what position the cylinder/hammer is in. Really really small but some movement. It's NOT ZERO, just the barely.
That's what I always heard. Cock hammer. hold hammer with thumb. Pull trigger and slowly lower hammer while holding trigger. NOW check for cylinder movement front to back and side to side with trigger held back. I read some years ago S&W revolvers have a very slight movement side to side.

Something else to check is cylinder to barrel clearance. Should be about .005" for real good. maybe .004", up to .008". Less than .004" is getting too tight Getting above that is still good, but showing more use. .010"-.012" is sloppy and I wouldn't buy it at all unless it was cheap and going to be a truck gun type thing. Just for the fun of it, if you have a .357 projectile? It should NOT drop straight through the cylinder holes without being pushed through.
There's no side to side or fwd/back movement at all. Cylinder to barrel clearance...I can barely get a piece of 20# printer paper between them. My feeler gauges are in the shop so I used the paper.
I'll round up a .357 rnd or 2 and see how they fit/load.

I have to say, this entire endeavor has been enlightening as well as educational. The expertise and advice is HUGELY appreciated.

Just to make me happy in order to sell this, I'm going to haul it over to a local gunsmith in West Richland and have him & his partner look at it this weekend. I wouldn't be afraid to shoot it but I'd like to know everything is as tight & right as it should be. I'll post back when I hear what they have to say. They're a couple of 'old' guys..so they're not very fast.. :rolleyes:
B4 I go there, I'll see if I can digitally measure everything & report back. Stay tuned..

Dan
 
Gunsmith says everything is OK, nothing out of place. So it'll be going up for auction here 1st. If no buyers..it'll go to GB or GA for sale. I still need to feeler gauge the cylinder to barrel clearance..I keep forgetting that.. :( but I'll post that in the for sale ad.

Dan
 
Gunsmith says everything is OK, nothing out of place. So it'll be going up for auction here 1st. If no buyers..it'll go to GB or GA for sale. I still need to feeler gauge the cylinder to barrel clearance..I keep forgetting that.. :( but I'll post that in the for sale ad.

Dan
Looking forward to seeing the ad. But remember, no auctions here. Pick a price for the ad. You can always lower it if no bites.
 

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