I don't know whether that little amount of play in cylinder would be considered a "tight lockup" or not for purposes of describing a gun in an ad . My understanding is some revolvers have cylinders that are tight when closed. Some tighten up when gun is cocked. And some become fully tight only as hammer dropped. My revolvers have always locked up completely tight when hammer is dropping if not before. I just checked Buddy, my 686-4 snubby. He has about 1mm or less of play in the cylinder with cylinder closed and locks up totally tight when hammer is cocked. Also checked Thumper, my 9.5" Ruger Super Redhawk .44mag. Same pattern as with Buddy. A very slight amount of play with cylinder closed and locked up tight with hammer cocked. I don't know whether any play at all is acceptable once hammer is in dropping position. Or whether it indicates a timing problem or wear to parts controlling cylinder that is going to affect accuracy. Can someone else help? @RVTECH ? @Velzey ?I have close to .5 mm (0.0196) or so of movement on every hole. Is that considered tight?
I'd like to say with my digital caliper but..How exactly are you measuring this?
Before we go any further this is NOT normal - a DA S & W revolver does not have a 'half cock' in the traditional sense and the hammer should not 'stay there by itself'.I had the hammer on 1/2 cock..it stays there by its self, which I'm assuming is normal.
That's what I always heard. Cock hammer. hold hammer with thumb. Pull trigger and slowly lower hammer while holding trigger. NOW check for cylinder movement front to back and side to side with trigger held back. I read some years ago S&W revolvers have a very slight movement side to side. I believe that Colt has no side to side movement? I'm talking, .010"-.012"(?) .I check for lock-up by having/holding the trigger all the way back and the hammer down just like it'd all be upon firing.
Done & done..I can push on this until the cows come home.. it doesn't move. (not forward at least) That being said, it takes a few tries to get it to 'set' there. It's NOT like it happens 'every' cock or re-cock. But just touch the trigger and it's firing. And the pistol continues to operate in full DA.Before we go any further this is NOT normal - a DA S & W revolver does not have a 'half cock' in the traditional sense and the hammer should not 'stay there by itself'.
Please try this - put the hammer in this position you think is half cock and when it is stationary, try pushing it forward and see what happens.
Following your directions, I'm getting the same amount of rotational movement no matter how/where or what position the cylinder/hammer is in. Really really small but some movement. It's NOT ZERO, just the barely.A SW DA revolver should not have a half cock position. When I talk about checking cylinder lockup when hammer has been cocked and dropped half way I'm assuming you hold hammer with thumb and pull trigger with thumb still on hammer and use thumb to lower hammer to about half way and hold hammer in this position with thumb while checking lockup. And dont force anything while checking lockup.
When I look for play in the cylinder I'm guesstimating. The issue for me has always been some vs none.
There's no side to side or fwd/back movement at all. Cylinder to barrel clearance...I can barely get a piece of 20# printer paper between them. My feeler gauges are in the shop so I used the paper.That's what I always heard. Cock hammer. hold hammer with thumb. Pull trigger and slowly lower hammer while holding trigger. NOW check for cylinder movement front to back and side to side with trigger held back. I read some years ago S&W revolvers have a very slight movement side to side.
Something else to check is cylinder to barrel clearance. Should be about .005" for real good. maybe .004", up to .008". Less than .004" is getting too tight Getting above that is still good, but showing more use. .010"-.012" is sloppy and I wouldn't buy it at all unless it was cheap and going to be a truck gun type thing. Just for the fun of it, if you have a .357 projectile? It should NOT drop straight through the cylinder holes without being pushed through.
Looking forward to seeing the ad. But remember, no auctions here. Pick a price for the ad. You can always lower it if no bites.Gunsmith says everything is OK, nothing out of place. So it'll be going up for auction here 1st. If no buyers..it'll go to GB or GA for sale. I still need to feeler gauge the cylinder to barrel clearance..I keep forgetting that.. but I'll post that in the for sale ad.