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About 10 years ago i had the same problem. I don't remember the name of the product, but I got it at Home Depot and it comes in a tub (like a margarine tub). I think it was in with the cleaning supplies. I just took the top of the lid off and stuck it under the front passenger seat where it was out of the way.
 
Leak totally secured 2 years ago. Did Febreeze and variants, backing soda and I keep a bucket of charcoal briquettes in the back. It's not strong or foul, but it's still there. Certainly not worth tearing out all cloth, but that appears to be where the funk resides.
I took my car to a detailer that does mold abatement, it cost a few hundred bucks, but it was Worth it.
http://www.autobellausa.com/services/mold-remediation.shtml
 
For everyone saying just disconnect the blub the last few times I went in there they actually scanned the computer (OBDII post 96 production vehicles) so disconnecting the bulb will do nothing as the computer will still throw the codes and they will fail you.
Yup, and they don't even stick the sniffer in the tail pipe...
 
I am a BAR certified vehicle emissions inspector. If the "Check Engine" light is on, it's an automatic failure. You can disconnect the light, but the "Trouble code" remains in the ECU, that will be detected by a technician. The technician tests the function of the light by turning the key to the first position - all system lights will turn on at this point, that is the way you check for a burned out lamp. When the engine is started, the light should then turn off. There are Pre-Codes the can be set in the ECU even before the "Check Engine" light comes on, if the engine has an intermittent malfunction.
 
Anything made after 1996 will have OBDII. DEQ simply plugs their analyzer into the OBDII socket under your dash and reads any error codes. A CEL being on is an automatic fail, even if emissions are within limits. Prior to 1996 on board diagnostics were not standardized. DEQ actually looks at the CEL and sniffs the tailpipe on these models. Resetting the error codes will not let you pass DEQ. They can see that codes were reset and that new diagnostic tests have not run to completion. They will fail you on that and tell you to come back after driving a few more miles.

A few years ago I went looking specifically for an early 90's Toyota 4WD pickup. I wanted a 4 cyl, standard cab. Icing on the cake would be if it had a slight lift job. I found several in places that did not have DEQ, but none around Portland due to the fact that most of them that old have either been modified and can't pass DEQ, or they have issues that prevent passing DEQ, so they get sold off to places like Cottage Grove.

The one I eventually bought had the CEL light bulb removed. Of course, in the process of overhauling the dash and interior I found the missing light and also replaced several others that were burned out. As soon as I fired it up after completing the dash work I got a CEL. Since a 1993 doesn't have ODBII I was forced to read the raw signals with my Fluke multimeter. I found an electrical schematic and troubleshooting guide for a 1993 Toyota pickup on line, downloaded it and printed it out. Checking for the desired voltage levels at the pins in the harness connector to the on board computer against the troubleshooting chart I found a missing O2 cell signal. I also noticed a little corrosion on the card edge connector for the on board computer, so I used a pencil eraser to clean and polish the gold contacts on the card edge connector where the harness plugged in. After cleaning the connector I got a signal and hurried down to DEQ to get the truck smogged.
 
Oh, and for my newer OBDII cars I have an application called Movi Pro that I installed on my Macbook. It uses a connector cable to plug into the OBDII receptacle on the car and a USB port on the laptop. It monitors a couple dozen different signals and systems on the car in real time, and you can view the displays on the laptop, and even record them as you drive. The software and cable run about $150, but it's well worth it to be able to watch what's going on inside the car's ECU. The software also displays error codes and interprets them with short descriptions of what they mean.
 
Depending on what year is pre 96 if you just unhook the battery it will clear the codes in the ecu if its post 96 and obd2 you will have to use a scanner to clear them. Any auto parts store will have a scanner and should be able to clear the codes for free and tell you what the problem is. Usually it's a bad sensor but sometimes all that is required is a tune up. If its a cat code most likely you have a small misfire good luck
 

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