Unable to get my Volquartsen apart

[CastleRocker]

Hey there, I am unable to disassemble my pistol. I've had all my Rugers apart many, many times, and this is essentially a MK II. My daughter had it out ringing some steel yesterday, and it according to her, it just "quit". So I went out to look at it for her, and there was a round in the chamber that wouldn't eject. I tried to fire it, and no bang, so I pried it out. I could rack the bolt, and pull the trigger, and no click. So I know it's just dirty, no big deal. (She had put about 500 rounds through it). I pull the mainspring catch lever out, and that's as far as it will go. I even taped a screwdriver, so it wouldn't scratch the frame, and tried to gently pry the mainspring housing out...nope.

I figured I'd ask here before I call VQ. Any and all suggestions are GREATLY appreciated.

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[40Garand]

Hey there, I am unable to disassemble my pistol. I've had all my Rugers apart many, many times, and this is essentially a MK II. My daughter had it out ringing some steel yesterday, and it according to her, it just "quit". So I went out to look at it for her, and there was a round in the chamber that wouldn't eject. I tried to fire it, and no bang, so I pried it out. I could rack the bolt, and pull the trigger, and no click. So I know it's just dirty, no big deal. (She had put about 500 rounds through it). I pull the mainspring catch lever out, and that's as far as it will go. I even taped a screwdriver, so it wouldn't scratch the frame, and tried to gently pry the mainspring housing out...nope.

I figured I'd ask here before I call VQ. Any and all suggestions are GREATLY appreciated.

Scour YouTube! You should be able to find a video showing how to properly field strip and assemble that pistol. It's possible Volq. has their own YT channel with videos posted.

 

[Greenbug]

Did you dry fire it before removing the latch? If not, you may have locked it up. Call Volquartsen, they can walk you through it from there....

 

[BillM]

Sounds like maybe your hammer is still cocked. Pull the trigger and tap it, smack it, bump it with a dead blow hammer--whatever will
get the sear to trip and drop the hammer.

 

[Joe13]

Not much to add but buy a rubber mallet for the future

 

[CastleRocker]

The dry fire part was the problem initially. It just wouldn't fire. I kept the trigger pulled, and tapped on it all over, and finally heard a faint click. Came right apart.

Cleaned it all up, took it out back to run a mag or two, and it quit after the first shot. Same symptoms as before. Live shell in the chamber with no firing pin mark, which means the gun is still cocked and so I'm going to do it all again.

Both the firing pin return spring, and the bolt mainsping were fine. I didn't take the trigger group apart, but the trigger spring feels fine.

These are the things that make one go, "hmmm".

As far as taking these apart...I can't count how many times I've taken this one, and the other Rugers I've had down to clean them. I got my MK-1 way before the internet existed. This one was just really frustrating because I couldn't get it apart! (I thought it wasn't cocked, due to pulling the trigger many, many times with nothing happening).

Thanks to all who took time out of their day to help me, I really appreciate it.

Back to the bench to figure this out...

 

[40Garand]

If you were closer I'd say pull off the sensitive stuff and give it a dip in my jacuzzi.

 

[BillM]

Pure sight unseen WAG----the disconnector isn't resetting. Fires, slide cycles and loads a new round, disconnector doesn't
engage sear when trigger is released. If you have a full up Volquartzen fire control group, check your trigger takeup travel screw.
If it is too tight it can prevent disconnector reset.

 

[Joe13]

Knowing what VQ parts are installed might help as well

 

[cigars]

Not much to add but buy a rubber mallet for the future

No, don't use force... Get a bigger hammer!

 

[2A2Dend]

popcorn

 

[CastleRocker]

The pistol was made by VQ back when they used Ruger lowers that were stamped and serialized by VQ.

I didn't think about the reset screw. Never had that issue before. Thanks for that, I'm trying that now!

As far as hammers and mallets go...I happen to be a millwright/machinist and although I have a LOT of hammers; they're all at work in my locker! Guess I should bring at least one or two back home!

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Sounds to me like the trigger adjustment screws have moved. First thing I'd recommend is that both screws be backed out several turns, then try pulling the bolt back to cock the hammer to the sear.
If those two adjustment screws were not cleaned of any residual oil in the threads, shooting vibration can and will allow those screws to rotate too far in. When that happens, the disconnector will not allow the sear to engage with the hammer notch, thus the "click" you heard when you smacked it just right.
When I initially set those screws for pre and over-travel, I'll clean both screws with several sprays of "Parts & Break Cleaner" to remove any oil residue, and then also the threads in the trigger. Then, before I add a drop or so of thread locker to the screw threads, I'll give the thread crowns a very slight pinch to put some tiny flat spots on the thread crown.



This action will create a very slight drag when screwing the threads in, and the screws will not rotate while shooting. The thread locker, once dried will keep the adjustment until the owner wants to change things.
If anyone gets frazzled by this recommendation, I've been doing the very same method on the over-travel screws when I install new triggers and do trigger jobs on 1911 style pistols for over 30 years.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

The pistol was made by VQ back when they used Ruger lowers that were stamped and serialized by VQ.

I didn't think about the reset screw. Never had that issue before. Thanks for that, I'm trying that now!

As far as hammers and mallets go...I happen to be a millwright/machinist and although I have a LOT of hammers; they're all at work in my locker! Guess I should bring at least one or two back home!

Did you get a chance to work with those two screws?

 

[CastleRocker]

Just a thanks to all who took time to help me out. Turns out it was just a case of me being stupid! I thought VQ built this one on a Mk II frame...turns out it is a Mk III, so all I had to do was insert an empty mag. I had deleted that on my other Mk III's, and as there is no cocking indicator on the VQ upper, I didn't even consider that as being my issue. It's all good now, and thanks again to all who responded.

I used to have a T-shirt that said; "You can educate ignorance, you can sober drunkenness, but you can't fix stupid"! Sadly...that applied to me in this case.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Just a thanks to all who took time to help me out. Turns out it was just a case of me being stupid! I thought VQ built this one on a Mk II frame...turns out it is a Mk III, so all I had to do was insert an empty mag. I had deleted that on my other Mk III's, and as there is no cocking indicator on the VQ upper, I didn't even consider that as being my issue. It's all good now, and thanks again to all who responded.

I used to have a T-shirt that said; "You can educate ignorance, you can sober drunkenness, but you can't fix stupid"! Sadly...that applied to me in this case.

Well, it's quite understandable to do the things we are most accustomed to doing. Bet you won't make that same mistake again..........eh?

 

[BillM]

Would it be safe to assume the bushing to eliminate the mag safety is "in the mail"?

 

[CastleRocker]

Hahahaa!!! Yep, bushing is already installed. I'm not going to say I'll never do it again, but I will definitely catch it before I color myself an idiot on the internet. I will say however, that, NO, I won't make that mistake again with this particular pistol!

I've caught a lot of razzing from friends over this, and it's actually pretty funny now.

 

[Greenbug]

It's ok, everyone is an idiot on the internet!

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

Especially that bunch involved with the Ruger Mark forums at RimfireCentral.