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Why do you need to carry on an empty chamber on the Cimmaron? I have one and have always had a full cylinder. Testing fate?
Does your Cimaron have a transfer bar? without that there is nothing to stop an even light blow on the hammer from breaking the fragile perch on the sear and allowing the hammer to strike the primer.
There is an old saying that goes...
Never screw up so bad that they name the screw up after you!
Colt and its copies have the cowboy leg! Garand has its Garand Thumb, and Glock has its Glock leg! Etc...
The Cowboys got there's named for them because while saddling a horse they would hang the stirrup over the horn to be out of the way while tying the cinch . Enough of the time the stirrup would fall off the horn and strike a cowboys holstered gun, Firing it into his leg. This was common enough that it became known as Cowboy's Leg!
This is also one of the reasons the Army carried on there Left side! [Crossdraw]. And those that carried a SSA Colt and the like, learned to carry with the hammer down on an empty chamber! DR
 
RE : Post #20

THAT is another version (3rd kind) of "safety" that I've seen on Italian SAA models.

Yup...
It get's confusing when trying to find replacement parts. Sometimes you don't find a clearly named manufacturer's name struck into the metal (maybe you get a logo/sm marking, etc....). Yeah....what's the point when you're trying to look like a COLT? At any rate....IIRC I got my parts from VTI. Anyway, I've been there and done that. And I don't really want to go back.

Versus when buying parts for my 2nd Gen COLT. Yeah.....COLT parts do break too. And the COLT parts were "expensive" compared to the Italian parts. But, whatever.

So then.....
Getting back to the "safety".....

One of my Italian SAA came with a "safety system" where the base pin was longer than usual. Simply push it in further and lock it into position with the cross pin. That way the hammer is kept away from the primer. NOT saying that it's 100% fool proof.

Then, I had an Italian SAA that had a hammer with a flip up metal piece attached to the hammer. Anyway, again. I'm NOT saying that it will be 100% safe that way too.

COLT safety......LOL. Hammer resting on the empty chamber.

Aloha, Mark

PS.......4 clicks?

Don't buy the Ruger Vaquero.
 
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Uberti is the best of the replica manufacturers. As noted by @Jonnyuma , upgrades beyond what is offered by Uberti themselves can be obtained from outfits that request "special runs" from Uberti, or make their own improvements.

My pommel-holster gun while a-horseback is an Uberti "Outlaw" (Copy of a Remington 1890), factory engraved .44-40. Another favorite is a clone of an 1873 Army Colt, accurate in all configuration and marking toward a Custer Battlefield weapon (.45 Colt, of course).

An 1851 Colt Navy (.36) is one percussion Uberti here, as well as an 1862 Police.

I don't punish these guns, but they do get shot quite a bit with no breakages or malfunctions that could not be attributed to me. Closest to the "Real Deal" you can get, and finished so perfectly, every one. And the rifles? Well, this thread ain't about the rifles.

I want a Schofield.
I want a Schofield. ME TOO!
 
As to the "5 vs 6" in the cylinder debate, here's something I posted a short time ago that highlights another scenario where 6 wasn't such a good idea for the current activity of the human involved:

 
That makes sense. Not sure on the transfer bar, not too knowledgeable about revolvers.
The most obvious tip off is , Is your firing pin in the frame or in the hammer? If its in the hammer you probably don't have a transfer bar system [ most of the time]. If it in the frame, You should see the Bar moving up and down to block the firing pin when the trigger is pulled.
With an empty gun, Pull the hammer back and hold it with your thumb. Look down in the slot the hammer is in and just below the firing pin, there is a small Transfer bar that when the trigger is pulled should move up and down . Some of them rise when the trigger is pulled. they go between the firing pin and the hammer or the hammer wont make contact with the pin. And others drop when the trigger is pulled. Allowing the hammer to strike the pin. In the up position it blocks the hammer from hitting the pin.
Or, You could read the Owners Manual! Good Luck DR
 

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