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Tetra grease has been working for me.

Protect Metal-to-Metal Surfaces With This Heavy Duty Fluoropolymer Grease.

GREASE.gif
  • Widest operating temperature range -100°F to 750°F
  • Bonds to metals; smoothes and protects
  • Reduces friction
  • Quick to apply, easy to use
  • Low Odor
  • Doesn't attract fouling
  • Won't migrate Excellent for use on rifle bolts, sears, locking lugs and semi-auto slide/rails. Apply light coating to metal surface. Buff dry for a debris-repelling, "glass-smooth" surface
 
I use this from Walmart $8.99. Available at Amazon too.

White flouropolymer grease. I use it on my Ruger, my Glock, and on my AR too.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Tetra-Gun-Grease/48840158

View attachment 390577

After trying both lithium grease and marine grease on my AR bolt carrier, I have an intense dislike for greasy grease that dries up, attracts dirt, and is near impossible to remove/clean. I haven't tried Mobil1 grease, but it is used on bearings just like the other stuff I was using.

This stuff goes on, then you wipe buff dry. It penetrates the metal and leaves a smooth finish. Perfect for trigger groups. Note: I still use a synthetic oil for my AR bolt, and for 1911 slides... I much prefer to apply lubricant just prior to going shooting. That way, I know nothing is going to go wrong, which is a real hassle during competition matches featuring semi-autos. Ask me how I know!!!

GREASE.gif
  • Widest operating temperature range -100°F to 750°F
  • Bonds to metals; smoothes and protects
  • Reduces friction
  • Quick to apply, easy to use
  • Low Odor
  • Doesn't attract fouling
  • Won't migrate Excellent for use on rifle bolts, sears, locking lugs and semi-auto slide/rails. Apply light coating to metal surface. Buff dry for a debris-repelling, "glass-smooth" surface.
 
Mobil 1 synthetic 16 oz. can on Amazon for $12.60. Works better than Lubriplate
in my M1 and M1A rifles. Synthetic grease works over a much lower and higher temps.;)

Does Mobil 1 grease meet the mil-spec that the Army used?

No grease manufacturer tests their product to the old Army standard today. All manufacturers now use the accepted washout standard ASTM-D-1264. This test is much more harsh than the Mil-G-46003 test used by the Army.

ASTM D 1264ASTM-D-1264, known as water washout, was modified to include synthetic sea water. While there are various lubricant bearing tests for corrosion, none measures a lubricant's resistance to sea water. It is expected to combine corrosion and washout measurements in this test. The washout test is important for military applications. The ability of the grease to remain in place will ensure sufficient lubrication, as well as corrosion protection in all weather conditions.
1. An ABEC 6204 bearing is packed with four grams of grease.
2. The bearing is spun at 600 RPM and either 100F or 175F water is sprayed onto the bearing at a rate of 300 ml per minute.
3. The percent of grease lost is the rating number.

If you look at the rating for the Mobil 1 grease to the washout test. ASTMD1264, only 6% of the grease was lost during the test @ 175F!. You will never operate your M1 Garand in an environment that will wash off the grease. Mobil 1 synthetic grease meets and exceeds the requirements of Mil-G-46003. The Mobil 1 grease has a very high dropping point (melting point) of 550F. For the M1 shooter this means the grease will stay where we put it.

Mobil 1 synthetic grease also exceeds lubriplate 130A in wear testing making it the clear winner. Mobil 1 grease is available at all major auto supply stores and is very cost effective.
Wash out smosh out. When it comes to wash out in "exposed" bearings on a motorbike, I use Bel-Ray waterproof grease. Just riding around in this clean, rain soaked land, your bearings get munched/crunched, literally.. unless you monitor the situation and tend to required business.
 
How do you know?

Years of USPSA/IDPA matches. I'd forget to lube up my Para in the morning, then not far into the match at all I'd start having FTF/FTE problems... the slide was simply dragging and the action would be out of timing and sometimes failing to lock into battery. Dumbnuts that I was, I'd be scratching my head until one of the "old" guys would ask me what oil I was using. NOT!!! :eek::rolleyes::oops: By then my score would be in the toilet. I started using enough Rem oil to spray all over the front of my shirt (had to dedicate that shirt to shooting). Then someone recommended Safariland BreakFree Speed Lube (not made anymore). Still have some of the stuff but now I'm using Red's. That stuff is slicker than AstroGlide... DON'T ask me how I know!! :p:D:cool:
 
Years of USPSA/IDPA matches. I'd forget to lube up my Para in the morning, then not far into the match at all I'd start having FTF/FTE problems... the slide was simply dragging and the action would be out of timing and sometimes failing to lock into battery. Dumbnuts that I was, I'd be scratching my head until one of the "old" guys would ask me what oil I was using. NOT!!! :eek::rolleyes::oops: By then my score would be in the toilet. I started using enough Rem oil to spray all over the front of my shirt (had to dedicate that shirt to shooting). Then someone recommended Safariland BreakFree Speed Lube (not made anymore). Still have some of the stuff but now I'm using Red's. That stuff is slicker than AstroGlide... DON'T ask me how I know!! :p:D:cool:
Exactly.. it's a zen/knowing thing. In my book, a center fire auto should go multiple thousands without any tending whatsoever.
kinda like how a Browning Hi-Power hums along.. for the last almost hundred years.
 
Quite some time ago, I was working with an avid trap shooter who raved about Lubriplate No. 105 for his 1100.
He said the tip came from the military where grunts were using it in their weapons.
I think it was in the M60, but I can't confirm.

I started using it in my B-80 (Beretta) gas system and can confirm that it made cleaning a whole lot easier.
 

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