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I purchased a Kreiger 20 inch AR 'Service Rifle' barrel a few years ago.
For High Power rifle 'across the course' matches.
I followed the manufacturer's break in procedures. 1 shot and clean times 5.
3 shots and clean 5 times. 5 shots and clean 5 times. This Kreiger is the
most exspensive barrel I have ever purchased. It is also the most accurate
barrel I have ever owned. With the money I spent I figure I can put some
time in on break in. Who knows if the barrel would of shot the same
without there break in procedure? I am very pleased with how well
this barrel shoots. I use a compact 2X7 scope bolted on to the carry
handle to do load testing. 100 yard 5-shot groups of 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch.:rolleyes:
View attachment 338002
Having an
accurate
rifle is great! Maybe one day I'll

build a super
duper

accurate AR rig. cool
 
Crazy barrel breakins are generally voodoo superstition. As I understand it from when I researched it in the past many manufactures have barrel breakin procedures listed just so people will stop calling to ask about them. I understand a barrel may have a break in period however I don't worry to much about following a set regime I just shoot it and clean it like I would any other rifle and don't worry too much about it and all my precision rifles shoot quite well so I have nothing to complain about.
 
wear a tutu and hop on one foot while saying " moogoo doo boo" as you take a patch dipped in water buffalo urine and run it through your bore.

works for me
I swear
please post videos
 
The only barrels I bother with a "break in", are my BHW polygonal barrels which require a proper uniform copper gilding for maximum accuracy.

You can actually see the groups start to tighten up.
 
A bit of not quite what the OP was really asking about but ....

Original muzzle loading rifles often had cut rifling in soft iron or steel barrels.
Some 20th century makers like Bill Large and Royland Southgate did it that way too.
My Hawken Copy has a deep cut slow twist barrel by Orion.

On some muzzle loading rifles it does make a difference in how you clean them.
Much like Cast Iron skillets ... Barrels like these get "seasoned".
The use of a chemical cleaner can "unseason" your bore lead to a loss of accuracy.
Note the use of can and not will ...

If you have a muzzle loader I suggest cleaning with hot , soapy water , drying the bore , then a patch with CLP or Hoopes #9 , to keep the bore "seasoned."
Or if you are really into traditional like me a patch with Bear grease or deer tallow.

Again not quite on topic ... but I thought it be of interest.
Now back to our regularly scheduled thread...
Andy
 
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You mean it's not just an expensive pipe? I've never cleaned a new gun that wasn't already packed in some sort of grease or oil. So far it hasn't been an issue. Outside of two used guns, everything else has been 100% reliable and more accurate than me.
 
Hmmm, I wonder what the benchresters do. They used to clean the bubblegum out of their barrels. There are such things as borescopes, to see what the effects of various cleaning regimes are. There are also known to be many cases where bores have been worn down by cleaning rods.

I have given up on cleaning rods and now use only the Otis cables. I have ended up with rust inside a barrel so now when I put a gun away, even if it is not squeaky clean it does have an oiled bore (I patch the bore before shooting again of course). I also pull a dry boresnake through a couple of times right after I am done shooting to get the carbon out before it hardens; I noticed on my fired brass that the carbon comes off easily right after the shot, but not so much after a few days.

Other than that I just pull Hoppes #9 through the bore for a while to clean it. I'm kinda doubtful about how well the ideas of guys like Krieger apply to ordinary Savage or Remington barrels. The one or two times I tried the laborious break in, I noticed those barrels do not copper foul much - but that is anecdotal evidence.

I have no idea if my cleaning routine is any better than anybody else's.
 
Hmmm, I wonder what the benchresters do..
It varies wildly.. as was alluded to in those vids..

6mmBR.com Site Search Results

Not really on topic but I remember reading the/an old MP-5 manual and the process for cleaning the bore for long term storage/to get it really clean, took days if necessary.. utilizing time and good old Hoppes.. and your eyeballs.
not really complicated
Oh and edit, we kept and shot one without ever cleaning or lubing the thing.. it was at 80,000 with no problems, accurate as all the rest.
 
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When I purchase or assemble a rifle for accuracy I do religious break in. Other pistols , ARs and such I just shoot and clean w done. I believe in micro burs and pores in the steel and do my best to address them. Everyone beats to their own drum.

IMG_1686.JPG
 
@AndyinEverson seems right on topic to me. It just about cleaning.
I just posted the vids to show what 2 in the gun manufacturing business suggest. I know they know WAY more than I do about the subject. I knew most would call BS and do their own thing anyway. Not saying you are wrong but these guys pointed out a lot of little things they consider wrong or potentially harmful to the barrels.
Like scrubbing the bore with a brass/ bronze brush. And doing that too much at the crown.
Kreiger mentioned he could hear the difference in the metal while drilling the bore out. Even his blanks arent 100% consistent all the way thru.
I hope some watched the vids and were entertained if not enlighten like I was.
 
@mjbskwim, I'm grateful for the post - I'm put my bronze brushes away in a drawer and get some nylon ones.
Soaking with a patch first is a great idea.

In the GAP video, at 8:30, his comment about carbon buildup on the brake is spot on. I would add, not just only the bore - even on the vanes, as it builds up, it changes the flow characteristics of the burned gasses, kind of like gunking up your crown.

On break-in of barrels - IMO, that's a process where people's OCD levels can shine, and I see it happen too. I'm OK with my method.
Women are very different, but like barrels, even of the same caliber, they can have different needs. Fortunately I have a built in jag and patch.
 
I follow the manufacturer's specs but the general rule of thumb; brought to my attention by a real Spec Opns Sniper...... Lots of CLP on a patch after each round for the first 10 rounds, after each 3 rounds for the first 25 rounds or until the groups settle down (Two .223 examples: it took 19 rounds on a Surplus Ammo upper & 49 rounds on an MVP Patrol).

I see a lot of people at the range; doing as they please ( which is the most important thing for me....). Most take their time and do something similar to what I shared above, but some have taken a dry "NIB" AR straight from the store and burn through 200+ rounds through it; shooting at pieces of clay pigeons on the berm (never hitting "squat). They pack it up and go..... ( the 2nd most important thing for me :cool:).
 

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