Tung oil

[A2theK]

You guys ever use it? I have done some refinishing without using it to this point, but I was wondering if you all use it or not. I know I could look it up, but 600 grit in between coats or steel wool.

Thanks

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[v0lcom13sn0w]

never used tung oil but i do use 0000-steel wool in between coats

 

[GunInEachHand]

I had a lovely finish on some of my knife handles with TruOil. It is very similar to tung oil.
I didn't count on my mother wanting to dish wash my hand made knives .... 1095 and tru oil red oak dont really work well to fight high temp and hot water

 

[Koda]

Highly recommend Tung oil. Use 0000 between coats and 4 coats min.

refinishing wood stock

Remember, this takes time. Really 1/2 hr of time once a day. A rifle stock will a take week to a month. Dry time is key

www.northwestfirearms.com

 

[MrNeutron]

I believe both Tung Oil and Tru-Oil are varnish-type finishes. I used Tung oil on a piece of furniture a long time ago, and it worked well for that. I personally have been using Tru-Oil on my guitars and like that a lot. I love how it brings out the figure in the grain of alder, maple, and walnut.

Not a rifle stock or handgun grips, but it sure made this guitar body and neck pretty.......





Added in EDIT: Also, once it fully cures, Tru-Oil seems to be a little more durable finish than what I recall the Tung Oil being. You can handle the finish and assemble a guitar in a day or two, but it gets scuffs and dings easily, especially with softer woods like Douglas Fir and Alder. As Koda said above, it needs a month or more to really set up good. It still continues to cure with more time, and again, is a very durable finish for the hardwoods like walnut......

 

[Hueco]

I love me some tung oil; looks especially good on walnut boards. Keep in mind the dry time of pure tung oil: weeks to ~a month. It's worth the patient progress though!

 

[P7M13]

Do not confuse Tung Oil with varnish. Big, big difference.
Also, do not confuse Tung Oil with Teak Oil, which is not made from teak but a whole bunch of chemicals.
I don't care for how Tung Oil smells, but LOVE how it looks.

Though Tung oil is a wood finish, you can regard it more like a stain since it's absorbed by the wood.
After using Tung oil, you can apply varnish. I wouldn't try the reverse.
If you're refinishing wood, be sure to strip off all the old varnish/shellac or whatever the finish is.

Like @Koda suggests, do at least four coats. Makes a huge difference, and you see it in the weather resistance of the finish.

Like with stain (though some may disagree), your bare wood shouldn't be sanded too finely (i.e. sand up to 240 grit, but not more).
Thin the tung oil for your first coat (I'll do 50:50 with mineral spirits or turpentine). The last one I did with turpentine. You can reapply in ~4 hours but I let my first application dry overnight. Lots of drips while applying is not uncommon, so protect your work surface.
Before your next application, you can rub with clean 0000 steel wool. I say clean because I've had some right out of the package that had oil in the steel, and left a dark shadow -- a WTH moment. To ensure, I'll soak my steel wool in xylene and then let dry.
I highlighted can because, after only a night of drying, the Tung oil is still pretty oily. I use dust free lab wipes to wipe it off (no lint or dust), and then apply another coat.
I apply liberally with a trash staining brush, not something you do with varnish. Wait 4 - 6 hours and then wipe off. Let dry overnight, preferably a warm, dry, dust free location. You can spray it on too, but I'm too lazy to clean my Binks so didn't bother.

When I did my last rifle stock, after the last coat, I put it away somewhere clean and safe for 6 weeks. It was dry to the touch when I pulled it out. I then pillar and glass bedded the action to the stock.

Varnish, on the other hand, is all about surface prep. You'll want to sand to at least 600 (have known folks to go to 1200) before your first coat and also between, before applying a thin coat. Spraying is best, and if brushed, the quality of brush makes a world of difference. On boats I've used the foam brushes (Good ones from Rockler - not the red handled crap from Dollar Tree/home depot) with lightly thinned varnish and it also works well. Toss the foam brush after each use.
Matte, satin or gloss varnish, if you want it to look like you're staring through water (i.e. a deep lustre), you want to apply at least four thin coats. After your last coat, you can do the same sanding routine as if you're going to apply another coat, but then follow with hand polishing using polishing grits.
[edit to add] With varnish, do not "stir" or shake the varnish. This entrains air bubbles. Also, move your brush or applicator slowly and deliberately so to not get any air bubbles in the varnish on application. If you do, and let it dry, these look like acne in the finish, even if the bubbles popped. [/edit]

Edit to add: because Tung oil is absorbed, you can lightly sand or scratch the wood and the finish color and lustre will remain the same.
Here's my Winnie M70 after Tung Oil. The stock was a thrashed, used one I picked up from @BanjoGeek. Much nicer than the tupperware the rifle was originally sitting in.

 

[Pepe-lepew]

I have used it on M1 stocks. Real tung oil is hard to get. Some stuff sold with the name is modified. It dries way slower than BLO. I don't sand past 200 grit, I don't want the stocks with furniture smooth finish.

 

[wired]

I like a shiny smooth stock. Ive used it quite a bit. It does take a long time to dry . 0000 wool between coats.

 

[Spitpatch]

Do not confuse Tung Oil with varnish. Big, big difference.
Also, do not confuse Tung Oil with Teak Oil, which is not made from teak but a whole bunch of chemicals.
I don't care for how Tung Oil smells, but LOVE how it looks.

Though Tung oil is a wood finish, you can regard it more like a stain since it's absorbed by the wood.
After using Tung oil, you can apply varnish. I wouldn't try the reverse.
If you're refinishing wood, be sure to strip off all the old varnish/shellac or whatever the finish is.

Like @Koda suggests, do at least four coats. Makes a huge difference, and you see it in the weather resistance of the finish.

Like with stain (though some may disagree), your bare wood shouldn't be sanded too finely (i.e. sand up to 240 grit, but not more).
Thin the tung oil for your first coat (I'll do 50:50 with mineral spirits or turpentine). The last one I did with turpentine. You can reapply in ~4 hours but I let my first application dry overnight. Lots of drips while applying is not uncommon, so protect your work surface.
Before your next application, you can rub with clean 0000 steel wool. I say clean because I've had some right out of the package that had oil in the steel, and left a dark shadow -- a WTH moment. To ensure, I'll soak my steel wool in xylene and then let dry.
I highlighted can because, after only a night of drying, the Tung oil is still pretty oily. I use dust free lab wipes to wipe it off (no lint or dust), and then apply another coat.
I apply liberally with a trash staining brush, not something you do with varnish. Wait 4 - 6 hours and then wipe off. Let dry overnight, preferably a warm, dry, dust free location. You can spray it on too, but I'm too lazy to clean my Binks so didn't bother.

When I did my last rifle stock, after the last coat, I put it away somewhere clean and safe for 6 weeks. It was dry to the touch when I pulled it out. I then pillar and glass bedded the action to the stock.

Varnish, on the other hand, is all about surface prep. You'll want to sand to at least 600 (have known folks to go to 1200) before your first coat and also between, before applying a thin coat. Spraying is best, and if brushed, the quality of brush makes a world of difference. On boats I've used the foam brushes (Good ones from Rockler - not the red handled crap from Dollar Tree/home depot) with lightly thinned varnish and it also works well. Toss the brush after each use.
Matte, satin or gloss varnish, if you want it to look like you're staring through water (i.e. a deep lustre), you want to apply at least four thin coats. After your last coat, you can do the same sanding routine as if you're going to apply another coat, but then follow with hand polishing using polishing grits.
[edit to add] With varnish, do not "stir" or shake the varnish. This entrains air bubbles. Also, move your brush or applicator slowly and deliberately so to not get any air bubbles in the varnish on application. If you do, and let it dry, these look like acne in the finish, even if the bubbles popped. [/edit]

Edit to add: because Tung oil is absorbed, you can lightly sand or scratch the wood and the finish color and lustre will remain the same.
Here's my Winnie M70 after Tung Oil. The stock was a thrashed, used one I picked up from @BanjoGeek. Much nicer than the tupperware the rifle was originally sitting in.

View attachment 778784

Thanks for that. Easy to follow and understand.
I too wondered about some confusing Tung oil with the varnish/linseed mixtures such as Tru-Oil.

The caveats, waiting periods and intermediate care during the long drying process mirrors that of my own experience using pure boiled linseed.

 

[CV-66]

Homer Formbys Tung Oil - Used many times -is a little sticky on your hands during use but clean up per instructions. Later when you feel the need to touch up the stock here-and-there it's easy as pie. No mixing no tinting - just rub some more in. Even though they sell varying levels of glossiness, I've found the finish gets glossier the more coats applied. Just stop applying when it looks the way you want.

 

[dplev4]

Used it too in different wood projects. Like how it brings out the grain and seals my wood stocks. I will echo that you need to give it more time to dry and cure. It isn't a fully waterproof seal like varnish but does not discolor or crack like varnish either.

I suppose the one finish I would be cautious using it on is the occasional salt wood finish some rifle brands ended up with. I would think that might further mar an already marred looking finish.

 

[DB is Here]

It's a drying oil so make sure you lay your rag flat on the garage floor to let it dry before you throw it away. Wadded up wet they can and have caught fire.

 

[Bon Sauvage]

Homer Formbys Tung Oil - View attachment 778797 Used many times -is a little sticky on your hands during use but clean up per instructions. Later when you feel the need to touch up the stock here-and-there it's easy as pie. No mixing no tinting - just rub some more in. Even though they sell varying levels of glossiness, I've found the finish gets glossier the more coats applied. Just stop applying when it looks the way you want.

Friend that is Tung Oil Finish. That IS NOT the same thing as tung oil. It is more like a varnish. I have successfully used it many times in my gunstock finishes.

 

[CV-66]

Friend that is Tung Oil Finish. That IS NOT the same thing as tung oil. It is more like a varnish. I have successfully used it many times in my gunstock finishes.

Yes you are correct (still like the product tho). I googled it and found they've been absorbed by Minwax: website had the following:

1. 1. Response from Minwax:
      Product Support
      · a year ago
      
      Hello, We are sorry to hear that you are unsatisfied with our Tung Oil Finish. Yes, our product does contain an amount of pure tung oil. You are correct, it does not behave exactly like traditional tung oils, as it also contains a finish. if you would like to discuss this matter further, please contact us directly at [email protected] or by phone at 1-800-523-9299. Regards, Minwax Customer Support
      
      
      
      

 

[Natty Bumpo]

A word about steel wool. Do not use steel wool made in China. Most of the HD and hardware stuff is Chinese. The steel fibers will fracture off and lodge in your finish, not unlike dirt or sanding dust. It is also full of oil and quite greasy. Not good. Read the label. Do not use steel wool made in China on a gunstock or any fine wood project you care about. Save it for removing rust from metal.

I like either Liberon or Briwax brands, both made in Europe. These are oil free. They are available online or at woodworking stores. Even the better Euro stuff will break off a little bit. I use a magnet wrapped in a thin cloth to remove those bits before applying the next coat. You can also use compressed air.

And don't be stingy when using the wool. Use new wool every time and keep the rubbing surface of the wool fresh. Like sandpaper, use it as if someone else was paying for it.

Be careful and find out what you are getting when you buy finishes. Many finishes are marketed deceptively. Most tung oil "finishes" are not pure tung oil, but an oil varnish blend. And the results will be quite different than using oil without varnish additives. Not that there is anything wrong with blends, but most varnishes will impart a shine to the work while oil will not. You can get varnish that dries with a "satin" sheen. But those use ground up silica flatteners in the mix and they tend to dull out the finish rather than show off the natural grain of the wood. I don't like satin varnishes for much. Varnishes, lacquer and shellac are film finishes (like paint). Varnish leaves a film over the wood and affords a degree of protection to the wood from water, depending on the composition of the varnish.

(Pure) oils do not leave a film as they are not film finishes. They also take much longer to dry as they typically do not have chemical driers in them, like many of the blends do.

For example, Tru Oil is a mixture of boiled linseed oil and varnish. It will dry with a shine due to the varnish content. You can knock that shine off to a duller sheen with judicious use of steel wool.

When using a finish that is new to you, it is always good to practice your finishing on a piece of scrap wood of the same species, having prepared and sanded it identically to your project piece. That way, you can see what you will get before you commit it to your stock.

 

[CV-66]

Hey here's one for you - I'm gonna get one and try the real stuff for myself.
Been using Hoppes #9 for decades so this must be good stuff too eh?

 

[Bon Sauvage]

Friend I wish you luck. I never could get pure tung oil to dry.

 

[CV-66]

Friend I wish you luck. I never could get pure tung oil to dry.

 

[frosty]

I used aqua fortis and tung oil on a Vepr/Dragunov build. It turned out amazing and the oil dried for me. Did take time and patience. Used progressively more fine paper then wool in between each application.