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Pins bigger than the FART oem pins might solve all/some of the pin problems mentioned in this thread:
I haven't tried these...yet.

Has anyone switched to these :s0153:
:D

I've never used standard pins, just the egg shaped type media.

Here's a random google grabbed picture of the egg shaped type (on the left) vs pins:

905A9ECC-830D-4A48-A814-5CF27B45F1E9.jpeg
 
If you go this way don't go cowboy with the lemishine and soap. A little bit goes a long way for clean, shinny brass.

Your first batch you will see all of the black crap in dirty water that you dospose of.
After I drain the dirty water off I add clean water & swish it around & dump it then add clean water again and let it go another ten minutes on the tumble.
The water will be gray. You will have really clean brass.
With walnut hulls or corncob media your never get rid of the waste you will see in the dirty water.

Be advised you will find them little stainless steel pins places you never thought they would be.
A magnet with a release is needed.

I use a cap of armorall wash & wax & about half a teaspoon of lemishine.
View attachment 610603


I use the same soap. Limi shine is citric acid so I just buy that. 2lbs of the stuff from Walmart $9. I prob will take 10yrs to use it up!

I use just less than a 9mm case full per load in the Franklin tumbler. NOTE everyone's water has a different pH. Some will need more citric acid some will need less. I think my non scientific 9mm is prob about the same as the half teaspoon. But someone on a well or living in AZ will have different pH. Just plan on adjusting your mix for what works best for your water.



3038B3DA-D9B1-4DDC-AE26-D7C55D841C98.jpeg
 
Properly inspecting brass after a cleaning removes the stuck pin theory.

I get some, but proper brass inspection does find them. May try a smaller pin diameter at some point though or the "chips" style.

I started cleaning with dry media and didn't get the results I desired. First wet media tumble I was hooked.
 
If you go this way don't go cowboy with the lemishine and soap. A little bit goes a long way for clean, shinny brass.

Your first batch you will see all of the black crap in dirty water that you dospose of.
After I drain the dirty water off I add clean water & swish it around & dump it then add clean water again and let it go another ten minutes on the tumble.
The water will be gray. You will have really clean brass.
With walnut hulls or corncob media your never get rid of the waste you will see in the dirty water.

Be advised you will find them little stainless steel pins places you never thought they would be.
A magnet with a release is needed.

I use a cap of armorall wash & wax & about half a teaspoon of lemishine.
View attachment 610603
I actually don't use lemishine anymore, a nice solid squirt of Dawn and two hours of tumbling for pistol and three hours for rifle makes brass look brand new.
 
Properly inspecting brass after a cleaning removes the stuck pin theory.

I get some, but proper brass inspection does find them. May try a smaller pin diameter at some point though or the "chips" style.

I started cleaning with dry media and didn't get the results I desired. First wet media tumble I was hooked.

I am but a caveman and still liking the dry media cleaning, no mess, no sink or running water in the shop & having to wait for brass to dry. :s0002:
Granted many of you guys are more adventurous and load mega amounts of boolits so it works for you, great.;););)
 
I am but a caveman and still liking the dry media cleaning, no mess, no sink or running water in the shop & having to wait for brass to dry. :s0002:
Granted many of you guys are more adventurous and load mega amounts of boolits so it works for you, great.;););)

The OG Caveman that taught me to load, hand-polished all his bass with a rag and some brass polish. No media wet or dry! He even did his pistol calibers this way. Just found polishing brass relaxing. I bought my Lyman Turbo dry polisher at age 17 that same yr from Bi-Mart, nope not cleaning brass by hand. Even as a dumb 17yr old kid I knew that was not going to work for me. (I was dating his daughter, needed more time for that)

I get ya. I still have my dry media tumblers, including that Lyman I started with 30yrs ago sucker still works. I went wet cleaning not out of need just because I can make squeaky clean brass.

I recently wet cleaned all my rando range brass. I separated the calibers before cleaning, then headstamp sorted them once cleaned and dry. I have not loaded .40SW for some time but had about 2k in range pickups I had just sorted by headstamp. I pulled some old stored .40SW brass I cleaned years ago dry and headstamp sorted them in with the wet. My hands were black by the time I was done sorting the dry polished brass. Not used to that since I went wet polish, too clean.

It all works, however. So clean 'em the way you want'em. However, NO way would I ever hand polish each round!
 
The OG Caveman that taught me to load, hand-polished all his bass with a rag and some brass polish. No media wet or dry! He even did his pistol calibers this way. Just found polishing brass relaxing. I bought my Lyman Turbo dry polisher at age 17 that same yr from Bi-Mart, nope not cleaning brass by hand. Even as a dumb 17yr old kid I knew that was not going to work for me. (I was dating his daughter, needed more time for that)

I get ya. I still have my dry media tumblers, including that Lyman I started with 30yrs ago sucker still works. I went wet cleaning not out of need just because I can make squeaky clean brass.

I recently wet cleaned all my rando range brass. I separated the calibers before cleaning, then headstamp sorted them once cleaned and dry. I have not loaded .40SW for some time but had about 2k in range pickups I had just sorted by headstamp. I pulled some old stored .40SW brass I cleaned years ago dry and headstamp sorted them in with the wet. My hands were black by the time I was done sorting the dry polished brass. Not used to that since I went wet polish, too clean.

It all works, however. So clean 'em the way you want'em. However, NO way would I ever hand polish each round!

Lol, neither would I...:D
I wear latex free gloves..:D
 
So here's my recipe, "no lemi-shine" as you can see in the photos I don't need it. Just dawn and water for 2 hours. I did however buy a bag of the small stainless chips and mixed them with the pins for fantastic results. I can see my reflection on the inside of the rifle brass.
brass1.jpg
brass2.jpg brass3.jpg brass4.jpg
 
I think I'm done with using the stainless steel pins. The brass still comes out super shiny without them!

Curious about the other shapes though besides the pins.
 
I run 50/50 pins and stainless "bits". I find that I can lower my tumble times having a mix. Getting the outside clean is very easy in 45 min. The only thing is if you want the primer pockets to be 100% clean it takes a bit more time. I'm leaning on stopping at around 50-55min cycle time and saying 90% clean pockets is more than adequate as its really cosmetic not a matter of function at that point. I run 3.5lbs of brass per load and use 1/8 teaspoon Lemi shine, and 1 tablespoon of Dawn and my results are better than new bright shiny brass. In wet tumbling less goes a long ways!
 
I run 50/50 pins and stainless "bits". I find that I can lower my tumble times having a mix. Getting the outside clean is very easy in 45 min. The only thing is if you want the primer pockets to be 100% clean it takes a bit more time. I'm leaning on stopping at around 50-55min cycle time and saying 90% clean pockets is more than adequate as its really cosmetic not a matter of function at that point. I run 3.5lbs of brass per load and use 1/8 teaspoon Lemi shine, and 1 tablespoon of Dawn and my results are better than new bright shiny brass. In wet tumbling less goes a long ways!
Got a link to these "stainless bits" you're talking about?
 
I was just looking at it myself!
 
I don't believe so, but I've never tried either. They are listed as stainless media. I would think if they were magnetic they'd all just clump together which they don't
Sorry, maybe I asked the question incorrectly. Can you separate them from the brass using a magnet?

My current pins are attracted to a magnet and it's a huge help when separating them.
 

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